• We would like to welcome Exquisite Trimmings as an official Affiliate Vendor. Exquisite Trimmings is a UK based purveyor of the very best in clothing and accessories, from gloves by Thomas Reimer to leather portfolios from Il Micio, to watch rolls by Rapport London. Please visit their new thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The Perfect Navy Suit

Soph

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
4,149
Reaction score
11


With the navy/blue tie. Priceless!
 

tiger02

Militarist
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
3,798
Reaction score
2
Mory's is better, and I bet he doesn't hang out with guys who wear pleather.
 

tiger02

Militarist
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
3,798
Reaction score
2
I was thinking dog fur was another possibility, but I'll go with sequins
 

Soph

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
4,149
Reaction score
11
Thomas Mahon is the guy in the Navy suit in case you didn't know.
 

tiger02

Militarist
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
3,798
Reaction score
2
I didn't, he looks different without glasses. I still like Mory's suit better. Is the other guy Sting?
 

A Y

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
5,806
Reaction score
665
Here's the English Cut blog entry on the sparkly jacket, with a bigger version of the picture posted: http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000023.html Seeing Tom's suits on him was very influential in making me decide on his suits. There's another picture of Tom in this thread on LL: http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=272 BTW, he gave that navy suit away to one of his lucky readers: http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000074.html http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000088.html --Andre
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2005
Messages
11,178
Reaction score
116
have you received your Mahon suit yet Andre?
 

Duveen

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
840
Reaction score
2
Another one for Andre (mainly 'cuz your link got me looking @ Mahon's blog, and Mahon is a good writer and salesman-of-self) - what was the fitting experience like? I'd imagine that Mr. Mahon is now mobbed on his visits, but that may not be the case. Curious to know what your experience was like. Also, had you bought bespoke before, or was this the first time you did so? I seem to remember that you had some experience with MTM.
 

A Y

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
5,806
Reaction score
665
[email protected], Duveen,

I've only had my first meeting, so I don't have my suit or my first fitting yet. Hopefully that will be in late May or early June when he returns.

It's my first bespoke experience, so I'm not sure how it compares to other bespoke tailors. Basically, you meet Tom in his hotel room, and talk for a bit about what you'd like the suit for, and other things that may come up (hobbies, interests, technical questions about tailoring). Then you select a cloth, with Tom giving you some advice and information about the swatches. Unlike the stores' salespeople that I've done MTM with (Zegna, Vacca/Attolini, and Borrelli), he actually knows a lot about each cloth, and in some cases even the actual people who weave it! I had mentioned to him that I was looking at a checked or windowpaned suit because I only have striped suits, and that I had really admired a POW check suit I saw in "Good night, and good luck", so we settled on a medium-weight 120s wool/cashmere blend (which he assures me is very durable) with a black-and-white background, and a blue overcheck.

We then talked about what kind of suit to make. I was thinking about a double-breasted jacket, but for his first-time customers, he prefers making a single-breasted jacket and checking the fit on that. Since this was my first experience, and knowing to follow the gentle advice given by one's bespoke tailor, I went along with his suggestions: 3-roll-2 SB jacket with notch lapels, slant pockets, ticket pocket, and vest. Pants were high backed and use only suspenders, and a zip fly --- Tom says buttons fall off the buttonfly too often for him.

He takes your measurements next, kind of talking to himself all the while, but I didn't count the number of measurements, though they were far more extensive than my MTM experiences, as one would expect. And that was all. It took about an hour, and could have been a bit shorter if we hadn't stopped the process many times along the way to chat about various things. In real life, he comes across as he does on his blog: forthright, friendly, and knowledgeable. He was quite kind to the Zegna MTM DB I was wearing, and pointed out a few things that would be different (and if you knew anything about suits, you also knew it would be better) like the shoulders and armholes, but not in an obnoxious way --- it almost seemed like he was setting my expectations for how his jacket would fit.

I also got to try on a couple of his own jackets, because we are approximately the same size, and what really surprised me --- and perhaps this was just the psychology of the moment --- was getting that Wow! feeling when you put on something really special for the first time. As I mentioned on AAAC in their copy of this thread, the last time I got that feeling was when I first put on a dinner jacket. It has not happened for anything else --- ironically, I was just at the Borrelli store an hour beforehand getting the sleeve and pants lengths measured for an MTM that had just come in, and I definitely did not get that feeling there. In his blog, Tom talks about the depth and character of a suit, and I kind of got the first clue what that means when I saw his work.

BTW, I believe sysdoc has commissioned a suit from Tom, and is quite a bit further along than I am, so perhaps he may jump in and add his comments.

--Andre
 

Duveen

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Messages
840
Reaction score
2
Andre,

Thanks so much for the great summary/commentary - much appreciated!

Originally Posted by Andre Yew
BTW, I believe sysdoc has commissioned a suit from Tom, and is quite a bit further along than I am, so perhaps he may jump in and add his comments.

Interesting tidbit - I didn't know that Sysdoc had one in process as well. I'd (of course) love to hear from Sysdoc/see pics as the fittings progress, but that is obviously be up to him...
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How do you feel about spending money on non-essential goods during the Covid-19 crisis?

  • I don't want to spend money at a time of economic uncertainty, even if I could afford it.

  • I feel compelled to spend to help small businesses that are struggling.

  • I reduced my budget for non-essential goods and I'm not spending at the moment.

  • Not much has changed for me and I'm still buying stuff I can't afford.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
438,749
Messages
9,457,492
Members
198,206
Latest member
Max Penn
Top