The Overcoat Thread

[Old Red]

While on the subject of belts is this some sort of working martingale?

 

[DorianGreen]

I'd s

While on the subject of belts is this some sort of working martingale? View attachment 1911023

I'd say that this is a belt buttoned like a martingale, which is instead a half-belt on the back.

 

[deepocean80]

I am looking for a double breasted overcoat(ideally navy blue), cavour has sold out of the one I was particularly interested in. Any chance someone here is planning on parting with theirs or has a recommendation for one at a similar price point with similar proportions. I keep finding them in very slim cuts(suitsupply) or with lapels that are too small(spier). Ideally roomy enough in the arms to be able to layer. I am a 44. Thank you in advance.

 

[DorianGreen]

I am looking for a double breasted overcoat(ideally navy blue), cavour has sold out of the one I was particularly interested in. Any chance someone here is planning on parting with theirs or has a recommendation for one at a similar price point with similar proportions. I keep finding them in very slim cuts(suitsupply) or with lapels that are too small(spier). Ideally roomy enough in the arms to be able to layer. I am a 44. Thank you in advance.

A tad too short but pretty nice, that overcoat.

 

[comrade]

I am looking for a double breasted overcoat(ideally navy blue), cavour has sold out of the one I was particularly interested in. Any chance someone here is planning on parting with theirs or has a recommendation for one at a similar price point with similar proportions. I keep finding them in very slim cuts(suitsupply) or with lapels that are too small(spier). Ideally roomy enough in the arms to be able to layer. I am a 44. Thank you in advance.

As usual, the place to look is O'Connells, a place where slim-cut goes to die.

Chrysalis British Warm Overcoat - Navy

British Warmer - A classic standard issue British army coat from the WWI era.- Double breasted, leather buttons, peaked lapel, and epaulets.- 100% Heavy melton wool. Full bemberg lining.- Made in England.*Regular fit - order your sport coat size - y

oconnellsclothing.com

They also offer a classical double-breasted overcoat in dark gray.
Perhaps they can order one in Navy Blue.

 

[jonathanS]

I’ve been thinking about this as I think about ordering my first bespoke overcoat. What are people’s ideal overcoat wardrobe?

We were having this discussion on the double breasted thread, where I considered my would be:
1. Db navy peak lapel (chesterfield?)
2. Tweed Ulster (gray tweed, maybe herringbone or donegal)
3. Camelhair polo coat

All db. Then maybe 4th, a sb raglan coat.

 

[BomTrady]

Liverano Ulster just came in...won't get to wear it this season, but finally it's here.

 

[heldentenor]

That's outstanding. What cloth did you use?

 

[BomTrady]

That's outstanding. What cloth did you use?

Thank you. I am so embarrased...I dont know. I chose a fabric at the first fitting and Liverano called later that week saying they didnt have it and I told them to just pick something. But I will find out and send you a DM. It's the pefect weight though, not too heavy not to light.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I’ve been thinking about this as I think about ordering my first bespoke overcoat. What are people’s ideal overcoat wardrobe?

We were having this discussion on the double breasted thread, where I considered my would be:
1. Db navy peak lapel (chesterfield?)
2. Tweed Ulster (gray tweed, maybe herringbone or donegal)
3. Camelhair polo coat

All db. Then maybe 4th, a sb raglan coat.

Tbh, I don't think it's worth it for a bespoke overcoat unless there's a particular fabric you're after.

The overall look and silhouette doesn't have as much play as RTW vs. Bespoke sports coats.

A coat's silhouette is naturally longer and more square with overlapping quarters. Bespoke overcoats tend to look more snug and constricted, I think overcoats look better when they're almost too big.

I'm already at my ideal coat wardrobe and live in a very cold climate.

1- Dusty navy single breasted alpaca coat, peak lapels, patch pockets
2- Mottled charcoal raglan tweed coat
3- Giant PoW check raglan tweed coat
4- Camel polo coat
5- Grey patchwork corduroy raglan coat.

 

[13.characters]

How are you finding new seasonal Berg & Berg spring coats?

 

[brax]

Liverano Ulster just came in...won't get to wear it this season, but finally it's here.

View attachment 1926437

Looks great! Congratulations. Is there any advice that you would give someone contemplating this same commission?

 

[BomTrady]

Tbh, I don't think it's worth it for a bespoke overcoat unless there's a particular fabric you're after.

The overall look and silhouette doesn't have as much play as RTW vs. Bespoke sports coats.

A coat's silhouette is naturally longer and more square with overlapping quarters. Bespoke overcoats tend to look more snug and constricted, I think overcoats look better when they're almost too big.

I'm already at my ideal coat wardrobe and live in a very cold climate.

1- Dusty navy single breasted alpaca coat, peak lapels, patch pockets
2- Mottled charcoal raglan tweed coat
3- Giant PoW check raglan tweed coat
4- Camel polo coat
5- Grey patchwork corduroy raglan coat.

If you want a bespoke overcoat, why not have one and a rtw one too if you want? I mean, you can always use many different kinds of overcoats, different weights, fits, fabrics, construction, loose, snug, short, long, different levels of formality, etc. The weather comes in infinite temperatures and climates, and life brings us to infinite occasions, so it can be practical to have more than one and no need to restrict yourself to any one kind. I guess I am saying, I don't see the point in restricting your coat collection around a rigid philosophy.

 

[BomTrady]

Looks great! Congratulations. Is there any advice that you would give someone contemplating this same commission?

Thanks, it really is a great piece. They did a great job. I suppose I would say, be prepared to wait. I think they are quoting something like a two-year wait now. But they, and the Armoury team, are experts. So, you can sort of sit back and let them drive. Besides the wait, it was a seamless process. I am not even sure I said anything at any of the fittings after selecting the fabric.

 

[comrade]

I’ve been thinking about this as I think about ordering my first bespoke overcoat. What are people’s ideal overcoat wardrobe?

We were having this discussion on the double breasted thread, where I considered my would be:
1. Db navy peak lapel (chesterfield?)
2. Tweed Ulster (gray tweed, maybe herringbone or donegal)
3. Camelhair polo coat

All db. Then maybe 4th, a sb raglan coat.

Plus a DB British Warm in "PinK". See the coat on Field Marshal Montgomery
above.