The Overcoat Thread

[comrade]

Find out the weight from the seller.
Check out O'Connells in Buffalo

 

[comrade]

Probably not for Toronto. Winter in Italy is much warmer than you
are used to. You could call e Haberdasher for the weight. Since
you are in Toronto you should check out O'Connells in nearby
Buffalo. They have a huge selection of traditional outerwear.
They'll also give you info over the phone. Here's a heavy
example:

O'Connell's Double Breasted Lambswool Overcoat - Charcoal Grey

Double breasted 6 Button (2 buttons to button)Peak lapel, lower flap pockets 100% Very heavy weight wool in dark charcoal.Fully linedMade in USA

oconnellsclothing.com

 

[maebach]

Probably not for Toronto. Winter in Italy is much warmer than you
are used to. You could call e Haberdasher for the weight. Since
you are in Toronto you should check out O'Connells in nearby
Buffalo. They have a huge selection of traditional outerwear.
They'll also give you info over the phone. Here's a heavy
example:

O'Connell's Double Breasted Lambswool Overcoat - Charcoal Grey

Double breasted 6 Button (2 buttons to button)Peak lapel, lower flap pockets 100% Very heavy weight wool in dark charcoal.Fully linedMade in USA

oconnellsclothing.com

Awesome, thanks! Didnt know of this place.

What weight would you recommend? Like 1-2 lbs?

 

[JohnnyLaw]

Awesome, thanks! Didnt know of this place.

What weight would you recommend? Like 1-2 lbs?

Fabric weight is usually expressed as grams per square meter or ounces per square yard.

I think melton wool is great for very cold weather. It's windproof and will keep you warm, but is very heavy. An alternative would be an overcoat made from a lighter fabric, but lined with an insulating material, either synthetic or down. A removable liner could be a good idea if you want to wear the same coat in fall, winter and spring.

I prefer a coat with a high buttoning point and a collar that can be worn up. Otherwise, you only have a scarf to keep your neck and upper chest warm.

 

[SartoriaModerna]

What Loro Piana is offering is essentially a rip-off of the traditional Loden Coat
which are not cashmere as far as I know, but a tightly woven water repellant wool.
There are many makers. Here's one:

Men's Loden Coats

For centuries Loden coats kept alpine hunters and herdsmen warm and dry through the harsh Austrian winters. The tradition lives on in these authentic Loden coats.

www.robertwstolz.com

I personally wouldn't call it a rip-off to be fair, it blends styles and features of many different coat styles in one sleek design. As you have mentioned, Loden coats are called like that due to the material "loden wool" being used, it doesn't actually refer to a specific style.

I do see your point though that many loden coats nowadays are offered in a full buttoned overcoat in a boxy/roomy cut, along a full back split for better range of motion. The LP coat has the full back split but that's where the resemblance stops imo. The LP one is very different in cut, it has chesterfield / modern single breasted coat cut, but with high button stance up till the neck and it's not fully buttoned but half buttoned. This feature is often seen on Balmacaan coats and car coats and hunting coats. Yet balmacaan coats have raglan sleeves with again a much boxier cut, whereas LP has no raglan sleeves and much slimmer cut ,car coats are much shorter in length and hunting coats are often with patch pockets and non-flappable neck.

With that said, I think it takes elements from all types of coats and it's hard to pinpoint this specific style.

 

[SartoriaModerna]

Ah thanks a Loden coat I'd exactly what I want then. And agreed the prices are insane, I'm happy for a good quality fabric at a much more reasonable price.

I thought 100% cashmere is similar to upkeep to wool or wool-cashmere blends, just a little harder. Is it really way tougher? (I'm new to this whole space)

Unless you go for Storm System treated fabrics, 100% cashmere or a high % blend of it, is not ideal for a coat in heavy winter weather. Even with storm system, it's just water resistant and not waterproof. It's hard, time consuming and expensive to maintain compared to wool if you plan on heavy duty use.

In fact, the people who wear LP coats are people who just need a warm coat and look sleek (read: posh), but they don't do outdoor activities with these coats in heavy winter. Put in another way: people who wear LP coats are the ones who hang out at apres-skis and you probably won't spot them at the ski slope, at least not with their cashmere coats. You get the idea..

 

[comrade]

Awesome, thanks! Didnt know of this place.

What weight would you recommend? Like 1-2 lbs?

As I've noted before, when I lived in Chicago one of my go to
dress coats was a 32oz British Warm. I also Had ( still have)
a very heavy Melton great coat. As was mentioned, Loden
is not that heavy but it is an extremely tight weave and practically
waterproof. With an added lining it is quite warm.

 

[Wrenkin]

As I've noted before, when I lived in Chicago one of my go to dress coats was a 32oz British Warm. I also Had ( still have) a very heavy Melton great coat. As was mentioned, Loden is not
that heavy but it is an extremely tight weave and practically waterproof. With an added lining
it is quite warm.

Second the British Warm recommendation. It's the only wool coat I own that I would wear at, say, -10C.

 

[comrade]

Any pictures of that melton great coat?

Here are pics of my Invertere "Melton Monster" which I purchased around
1980 at Stuart, a long gone shop on Oak Street in Chicago. As one can see
it is a traditional trench coat, but in heavy melton:

 

[whipcord]

Here are pics of my Invertere "Melton Monster" which I purchased around
1980 at Stuart, a long gone shop on Oak Street in Chicago. As one can see
it is a traditional trench coat, but in heavy melton:

View attachment 1884795

View attachment 1884796



View attachment 1884797

Beautiful coat. I would love something like that.

 

[maebach]

Here are pics of my Invertere "Melton Monster" which I purchased around
1980 at Stuart, a long gone shop on Oak Street in Chicago. As one can see
it is a traditional trench coat, but in heavy melton:

View attachment 1884795

View attachment 1884796



View attachment 1884797

Nice coat, but nicer house! Fancy trim around the door!

 

[comrade]

Thank you. It's just a 40s California ranch house which we
renovated 10 years ago. We don't go in for sleek functional
contemporary furnishings or design.

 

[13.characters]

How do you guys store your heavy overcoats for spring/summer/autumn?

Is it fine to leave it hanging on a wide hanger? Or should it be folded so it won't be stretched out over time? I have a 800 gsm over the knee polo coat (heaviest I own) and wonder how to store it correctly.

 

[comrade]

My two are hung on thick wooden hangers and stored
in zippered garment bags w/ lots of cedar chips,. Every
year I sand the chips which brings out the aroma and
spray them w/ cedar spray obtainable at my local
hardware store. Bed Bath and Beyond also has the chips,
I believe. I do the same with winter weight suits/sport coats.

 

[cpc]

Hi!

Has anyone got real life photos of the Navy Donegal coat from Private White / Permanent Style?

On the official pictures the flecks seem very prominent, is that the case in real life too?