The Overcoat Thread

[JIMIG]

What fabric weight is a good benchmark to achieve good drape in a wool overcoat? Is 20 oz sufficient, or should I go > 25 oz?

 

[FlyingHorker]

What fabric weight is a good benchmark to achieve good drape in a wool overcoat? Is 20 oz sufficient, or should I go > 25 oz?

What's your definition for "good drape"?

I notice everything 20oz and up hangs mostly straight with minimal wrinkles.

I like a heavy overcoat, but I notice fabrics lighter than 20oz wrinkle more, look more dramatic, and physically flow when you walk.

A trim coat in a lighter fabric will hang straight as well.

 

[St1X]

Anyone tried Poszetka's raglan coats? Thoughts on them?

I own this one https://www.poszetka.com/product-eng-6891-Double-breasted-raglan-coat.html
It's really nice, although it's too lightweight for winters in Stockholm, even if they are very mild.
I'd like it to be around 700gr\m2 than it would be one of my favorite casual coats

 

[St1X]

Who's making OTR heavy (700+ gr) overcoats in the EU? Feels like the only option for me is to go bespoke, but it's too late for it now

 

[sipang]

Best bet in a pinch is vintage Burberry or Aquascutum tweed overcoats on ebay etc

 

[whorishconsumer]

Best bet in a pinch is vintage Burberry or Aquascutum tweed overcoats on ebay etc

I got a Burberry glen plaid balmacaan (very loose fitting) from Vestiaire last year.

 

[thatboyo]

I feel like it’s actually a lot easier to get heavier coats OTR now versus 10 years ago. Off the top of my head:

-Permanent Style just released one.
-Drakes will probably have some options in a few weeks.
-I feel like Berg & Berg definitely had in the past, not sure on now.
-SEH Kelly has multiple online and in pipeline.
-Anglo Italian

 

[St1X]

I feel like it’s actually a lot easier to get heavier coats OTR now versus 10 years ago. Off the top of my head:

-Permanent Style just released one.
-Drakes will probably have some options in a few weeks.
-I feel like Berg & Berg definitely had in the past, not sure on now.
-SEH Kelly has multiple online and in pipeline.
-Anglo Italian

These are UK shops, UK is no longer in EU.
Buying anything from outside EU comes with a hefty communist taxes for me - around 40%

 

[comrade]

Not sure what the taxes are from the US but O'Connells has a wide selection
of traditional heavy overcoats:

O'Connell's Harris Tweed Raglan Overcoat - Brown and Tan Herringbone

Classic Brown & Tan Herringbone in a comfortable medium-heavy weight Harris Tweed- easy on and easy off raglan sleeves. - Fly front (hidden buttons), deep slash pockets, raglan sleeves.- Full bemberg lining. - Impeccably tailored i

oconnellsclothing.com

 

[St1X]

Not sure what the taxes are from the US but O'Connells has a wide selection
of traditional heavy overcoats:

O'Connell's Harris Tweed Raglan Overcoat - Brown and Tan Herringbone

Classic Brown & Tan Herringbone in a comfortable medium-heavy weight Harris Tweed- easy on and easy off raglan sleeves. - Fly front (hidden buttons), deep slash pockets, raglan sleeves.- Full bemberg lining. - Impeccably tailored i

oconnellsclothing.com

taxes are exorbitant. at least +12% and then +25% on top of the 112%, making it at least +40%.
However if the company will provide a proof that the item is made in the country with which Sweden has a trade deal the +12% would not be applied.
With a VERY strong dollar these days, I can get a handmade bespoke coat made in Stockholm cheaper than this OTR one

 

[JIMIG]

Any more thoughts on the new Berg & Berg raglan coat? 600 g. No size chart yet, but previous iteration had a nice length (116 cm). I think it looks nice, but curious to hear SF opinions

 

[TomTom]

Who's making OTR heavy (700+ gr) overcoats in the EU? Feels like the only option for me is to go bespoke, but it's too late for it now

I have a a very a great coat from Walker Slater in a stunning burgundy super heavy 800g wool. I wear it all the time over the winter period. I have also been in Sweden last January where it was beautiful, sunny but -20 C for weeks and it did the job beautifully.

Conrad Coat

Conrad is a double breasted overcoat which is built for keeping you warm in the blustery weather.

www.walkerslater.com

 

[Zerase]

Any more thoughts on the new Berg & Berg raglan coat? 600 g. No size chart yet, but previous iteration had a nice length (116 cm). I think it looks nice, but curious to hear SF opinions

I don't think those hip pockets look good with a raglan sleeve tbh.

 

[JIMIG]

Also, @DonRaphael: have you received the coats you ordered? Would you mind giving an update on the fit and fabric?

 

[DonRaphael]

Also, @DonRaphael: have you received the coats you ordered? Would you mind giving an update on the fit and fabric?

Sure mate. I returned the jackets.

The fabric was too thin for true Scandinavian winter wear imo.

In my estimation, the coats weren't ideal for wearing a jacket under either. The shoulders weren't wide enough for the purpose rendering the jacket shoulders visible under the coat. Changing size from M to L would render the rest of the coat too big. I'm a size 40 SC/suit for reference.

Also, in real life, the collar was too small imo. But that's personal/stylistic preference and not a knock on B&B.

You should see the coats available soon if you're interested in any of them. Hope that helped.