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The Overcoat Thread

comrade

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Must admit that the Die, Workwear and Menswear Musings blogs helped me appreciate balmacaans more. They have presence, without being visually overbearing. An ideal addition to my wardrobe for the brutal Northeast Winters.
Nonetheless, this obviously comes at a cost and I'm now searching for one that won't break the bank. Really digging Spier & MacKay's charcoal herringbone balmacaan from last year -- if anyone is willing to part with one in a 36R, please contact me. Otherwise my hunt continues! Will also be keeping an eye on this thread for inspiration on other contenders.
Here you go !


I have a couple of Cordings Country Shirts. They were very cheap compared to
the usual ones I wear H &K, Finamore, T & A, but decently made . This coat
seems a bargain and it comes in 36 R.
For higher end Balmacaans see:


 
Last edited:

Salad

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What coat is this?

Vintage Bill Blass coat I found on Etsy, lol. I don't think it was worn much if at all. Altering the hem would probably cost almost as much as I paid for it.
 

wafflingwaffles

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Thoughts on a 500g/sqm 75% wool 25% cashmere overcoat for a place with winters of 12-18 Celsius (54-64 F)? Too warm?
 

TheShetlandSweater

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Thoughts on a 500g/sqm 75% wool 25% cashmere overcoat for a place with winters of 12-18 Celsius (54-64 F)? Too warm?
I think most people on here would say that an overcoat at those temperatures is completely unnecessary. But you live in a warmer climate and your body has different preferences clearly. I guess this is all just to say that it's going to be hard for anyone on here to answer this question.

That being said, if you are concerned, just wear a style that looks good when worn open. That way if things are too warm you can just unbutton your coat.
 

Despos

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Thoughts on a 500g/sqm 75% wool 25% cashmere overcoat for a place with winters of 12-18 Celsius (54-64 F)? Too warm?
Contrarian here. I’m for lighter weight topcoats. 54-64F temps are the highs for the day and mornings and evenings are cooler. These in between temps are hard to dress for.
If you over dress you’re too warm and too cold without a coat.
Have 3 topcoats in 13-14 ounce, 390 gram cloth that are perfect. These cloths were picked from sport coat samples not top coating sample books. They get worn more often than my heavier top coats.
In my experience a mid weight topcoat over a 10-12 ounce jacket gives enough weight/warmth if I need it. Can layer a sweater if I need more protection from cold. Can’t make a heavy topcoat wear cooler. I overheat with heavier cloths.
 

goalaso

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Contrarian here. I’m for lighter weight topcoats. 54-64F temps are the highs for the day and mornings and evenings are cooler. These in between temps are hard to dress for.
If you over dress you’re too warm and too cold without a coat.
Have 3 topcoats in 13-14 ounce, 390 gram cloth that are perfect. These cloths were picked from sport coat samples not top coating sample books. They get worn more often than my heavier top coats.
In my experience a mid weight topcoat over a 10-12 ounce jacket gives enough weight/warmth if I need it. Can layer a sweater if I need more protection from cold. Can’t make a heavy topcoat wear cooler. I overheat with heavier cloths.
Do they often make overcoats this light? I love the idea, but haven't seen many like this (but I'm new to the overcoat game). Any links much appreciated
 

Despos

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Do they often make overcoats this light? I love the idea, but haven't seen many like this (but I'm new to the overcoat game). Any links much appreciated
Do you want a RTW Topcoat or looking for cloth?
 

goalaso

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Preferably RTW, but if the options are severely limited, then cloth source would be reasonable
 

Despos

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Preferably RTW, but if the options are severely limited, then cloth source would be reasonable
Someone else can reply who makes coats in lighter weights. I wouldn’t know
 

dieworkwear

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Preferably RTW, but if the options are severely limited, then cloth source would be reasonable
Someone else can reply who makes coats in lighter weights. I wouldn’t know

I don't think I've seen a RTW topcoat at that weight. The only thing I can think of are those slippery, slightly tech-y raincoats you see from Italian brands such as Herno or Aspesi. But that material is not the kind of jacketing stuff that Despos is talking about.
 

Mute

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Preferably RTW, but if the options are severely limited, then cloth source would be reasonable
I know that Bookster in the UK offer suiting weight cloths as well as cotton, tweed and coating weight cloths for their custom made overcoats. You might find something you'd like from them.
 

whorishconsumer

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By what measure would a balmacan be considered too large? In particular a vintage piece.
 

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