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The Overcoat Thread

Proleet

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I'd like your input (And everyone else on the forum) on another purchase I'm considering, since we're on the topic of versatility.
This is a SM coat, which is at the same level of high-end wear that a lot of the SF members are used to, but I also don't want a coat like this to be too expensive considering it's lack of versatility. The fit works incredibly well and I love how interesting and unique the colour is. However, this is probably the one of the most difficult colours to own because green is just so hard to pair. It works with grey pants, and that's pretty much it. It doesn't work well with blue and I don't wear brown pants very often. Same with tops - it will work well with white or brown tops, and maybe lilac, but that's about it. Really, it's the pants that are hard to pair with, and I think that will significantly restrict the number of wears I will get out of it.
I'd love to hear some thoughts on this so that I can make a decision. IT's one of those situations where I love the colour, material and fit, but just can't think of enough ways to pull it off to justify the purchase.

Keep in mind, I wouldn't wear this with a suit and infrequently with a dress shirt. It would most likely be worn with cardigans, cableknit sweaters, turtlenecks.


i bought this coat (as my 4th overcoat) and love it. I do actually feel it pairs fine with dark blue/navy. Why do you think it wouldn't go well together?

I do echo the comment above; you might want to buy a more common color if it’s your first overcoat.
 

hysteria

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i bought this coat (as my 4th overcoat) and love it. I do actually feel it pairs fine with dark blue/navy. Why do you think it wouldn't go well together?

I do echo the comment above; you might want to buy a more common color if it’s your first overcoat.

Glad to hear your experience with the coat.
I think I've always found the green-blue combo to be a bit odd. I find they don't complement or contrast well. It's sort of in the middle where the two colours both compete for your attention and it doesn't quite fit. Versus, grey and blue, or green and brown, where those combinations just seem to fit and isn't as hard on the eyes. Green-blue combo feels forced to my eyes.
 

FlyingHorker

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Thanks for the intput.
I did consider the gray version, but gray herringbone's are so common, if I were to buy a gray herringbone, I'd want a cut that's a bit more interesting and bold.
I do tend to wear a lot of blue and grey, but if I had this green coat, it would certainly propel me to start wearing more browns haha.

Also curious to know what you think of the colour, fabric and cut. Again, I think it's a very unique colour and donegal always has depth imo. But, everyone ont his forum has seen and worn far more coats than I have, and it always helps to have some seasoned inputs.
Yeah I can see that, and is why I've also passed on the grey herringbone. IMO, I'd start with the wardrobe you have, not the one you'd like to have.

Personally, I think medium or dark brown with donegal flecks makes for a very interesting colour that works well with greys, navies, browns and pretty much everything.

This was my first S&M overcoat in the colour I describe.


I found Zanieri to be a nice fabric. It is scratchy against bare skin, but warm. Not a dense fabric though that will protect from icy wind. Very nice herringbone texture. Keep in mind I'm posting this from the perspective of someone who lives in the frigid prairies of Canada.

I've no experience with Magee. I've ordered a swatch before for that very same dark green fabric I think, and it seemed similiar to Zanieri, maybe a bit softer.

Melton wool is relatively more dense and windproof, but also less textured.

So you can't go wrong IMO in terms of fabric, as long as you know what you're getting into.

The cut I'd say is on the trimmer side for polo coats, you can see that in my post I linked. I did take it to my tailor to let out the waist to help prevent that vent flare you see. I was a 35.5" chest when that post was made, and the coat was a size 36.

I know you don't want expensive, but S&M does have the MTO program up now. You could order a size or two in the dark green to see if it's to your liking. If it's not, you have at least figured out your sizes and can then pick a fabric to MTO. S&M actually carries the two giant glen check fabrics in the first post of this thread.
 

bdavro23

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Glad to hear your experience with the coat.
I think I've always found the green-blue combo to be a bit odd. I find they don't complement or contrast well. It's sort of in the middle where the two colours both compete for your attention and it doesn't quite fit. Versus, grey and blue, or green and brown, where those combinations just seem to fit and isn't as hard on the eyes. Green-blue combo feels forced to my eyes.

I'm not sure why you would think green and blue arent complementary, as I think it would work very well with this coat. Interestingly, I think you'd have more trouble pairing a blue coat since you seem to primarily wear grey and blue trousers. Grey would work with the blue obviously, but matching blues would be much more difficult. Just my thoughts...
 

hysteria

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Yeah I can see that, and is why I've also passed on the grey herringbone. IMO, I'd start with the wardrobe you have, not the one you'd like to have.

Personally, I think medium or dark brown with donegal flecks makes for a very interesting colour that works well with greys, navies, browns and pretty much everything.

This was my first S&M overcoat in the colour I describe.


I found Zanieri to be a nice fabric. It is scratchy against bare skin, but warm. Not a dense fabric though that will protect from icy wind. Very nice herringbone texture. Keep in mind I'm posting this from the perspective of someone who lives in the frigid prairies of Canada.

I've no experience with Magee. I've ordered a swatch before for that very same dark green fabric I think, and it seemed similiar to Zanieri, maybe a bit softer.

Melton wool is relatively more dense and windproof, but also less textured.

So you can't go wrong IMO in terms of fabric, as long as you know what you're getting into.

The cut I'd say is on the trimmer side for polo coats, you can see that in my post I linked. I did take it to my tailor to let out the waist to help prevent that vent flare you see. I was a 35.5" chest when that post was made, and the coat was a size 36.

I know you don't want expensive, but S&M does have the MTO program up now. You could order a size or two in the dark green to see if it's to your liking. If it's not, you have at least figured out your sizes and can then pick a fabric to MTO. S&M actually carries the two giant glen check fabrics in the first post of this thread.

Oh wow you bought the same style/cut from SM before (referring to your rust coat) - just a different colour and fabric.
I will comment that I find the pockets to be a bit odd - usually not a fan of flaps and don't like the way the pocket outline stiching shows, but that's fine, I can live with it.
I actually did buy the green (just to try, but will return it so that I have more time to make a decision) and I agree that it's a trim fit. I may have to size up a little bit. I definitely like the fit and fabric.
Since you have some experience with SM coats, would you say that the quality and value are excellent for what you pay?
Personally, I'm quite impressed with the coats they've been producing and they seem to be excellent value for the price. But that's just based on my feel of the fabrics and the cuts. Owning it for some time is a different matter, so I'm curious to hear others' thoughts on value proposition and quality.

I'm going to look into their MTO because that 2nd glen check in grey (3rd photo in your first post) is gorgeous. I've always wanted that fabric with the BOLD glen check pattern. If SM has that exact pattern in a decent fabric, that will be my winner. Way more interesting than the grey herringbone from SM.
 

FlyingHorker

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Oh wow you bought the same style/cut from SM before (referring to your rust coat) - just a different colour and fabric.
I will comment that I find the pockets to be a bit odd - usually not a fan of flaps and don't like the way the pocket outline stiching shows, but that's fine, I can live with it.
I actually did buy the green (just to try, but will return it so that I have more time to make a decision) and I agree that it's a trim fit. I may have to size up a little bit. I definitely like the fit and fabric.
Since you have some experience with SM coats, would you say that the quality and value are excellent for what you pay?
Personally, I'm quite impressed with the coats they've been producing and they seem to be excellent value for the price. But that's just based on my feel of the fabrics and the cuts. Owning it for some time is a different matter, so I'm curious to hear others' thoughts on value proposition and quality.

I'm going to look into their MTO because that 2nd glen check in grey (3rd photo in your first post) is gorgeous. I've always wanted that fabric with the BOLD glen check pattern. If SM has that exact pattern in a decent fabric, that will be my winner. Way more interesting than the grey herringbone from SM.
Yeah, it was the first iteration of the polo coat. The patch pockets were smaller and the shoulders were roped as well.

I love S&M overcoats. Definitely an amazing value and quality IMO. I never thought I'd be able to buy an overcoat for $500-600CAD.

I still wear my rust coat, but it is now tight on me. Nice to throw over just a shirt though.

I also wanted that grey glen check, and had it made into a Balmacaan through my tailor. S&M now carries that same fabric. Here is another shameless plug for that coat. Keep in mind that I'm now a size 38, and the Bal below is more like a size 42 for the oversized fit. S&M does have a Bal pattern for MTO.

Edit: oops, wrong link, here is the right one

 

bicycleradical

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I received one of these a few weeks ago and have had a chance to try it out with and without a sportcoat underneath.


It is a pretty nice coat. The fabric seems sturdy and it looks good. It fits well and will keep me warm enough in these mild DC winters. I'll have my wife take a photo and post it on here soon for people to have a glance.
 

hysteria

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I received one of these a few weeks ago and have had a chance to try it out with and without a sportcoat underneath.


It is a pretty nice coat. The fabric seems sturdy and it looks good. It fits well and will keep me warm enough in these mild DC winters. I'll have my wife take a photo and post it on here soon for people to have a glance.

yes please post. The cut and fabric seem really great for the price you pay. I was tempted to consider the beige colour. I might get it next year or later because I'm a sucker for polo coats and wnat to build up that colleciton first.
 
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hysteria

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Yeah, it was the first iteration of the polo coat. The patch pockets were smaller and the shoulders were roped as well.

I love S&M overcoats. Definitely an amazing value and quality IMO. I never thought I'd be able to buy an overcoat for $500-600CAD.

I still wear my rust coat, but it is now tight on me. Nice to throw over just a shirt though.

I also wanted that grey glen check, and had it made into a Balmacaan through my tailor. S&M now carries that same fabric. Here is another shameless plug for that coat. Keep in mind that I'm now a size 38, and the Bal below is more like a size 42 for the oversized fit. S&M does have a Bal pattern for MTO.

Edit: oops, wrong link, here is the right one


I hope you're right about the fabric being available at SM. I will look into it and def order MTo if that's the case.
That coat looks fantastic on you. There's another photo that I'd like to share with a very similar (if not same) pattern. This is what a great quitinissental grey coat looks like imo. If I can get somethign similar from SM, I'd be ecstatic. The shoulder, the lapels, all fantastic.

1635969534467.png
 

bicycleradical

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yes please post. The cut and fabric seem really great for the price you pay. I was tempted to consider the beige colour. I might get it next year or later because I'm a sucker for polo coats and wnat to build up that colleciton first.

Is it the one on the bottom right? Hard to tell based on that small image. I'd have to go see the fabric in store.


I see the navy wool/cashmere blend on the top right. The fabric code is: L1782560-IA-585-MTO-OUT.
 

hysteria

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Yeah, it was the first iteration of the polo coat. The patch pockets were smaller and the shoulders were roped as well.

I love S&M overcoats. Definitely an amazing value and quality IMO. I never thought I'd be able to buy an overcoat for $500-600CAD.

I still wear my rust coat, but it is now tight on me. Nice to throw over just a shirt though.

I also wanted that grey glen check, and had it made into a Balmacaan through my tailor. S&M now carries that same fabric. Here is another shameless plug for that coat. Keep in mind that I'm now a size 38, and the Bal below is more like a size 42 for the oversized fit. S&M does have a Bal pattern for MTO.

Edit: oops, wrong link, here is the right one


Is it the one on the bottom right? Hard to tell based on that small image. I'd have to go see the fabric in store.

 

FlyingHorker

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I hope you're right about the fabric being available at SM. I will look into it and def order MTo if that's the case.
That coat looks fantastic on you. There's another photo that I'd like to share with a very similar (if not same) pattern. This is what a great quitinissental grey coat looks like imo. If I can get somethign similar from SM, I'd be ecstatic. The shoulder, the lapels, all fantastic.

View attachment 1697230
Thanks bro, I appreciate it.

That coat looks dramatic and perfectly well done, I'd wear that one too!

I don't think it would be available at S&M though. The large peak lapels, heavily roped shoulders is not part of any standard coat pattern I've seen from them.
Is it the one on the bottom right? Hard to tell based on that small image. I'd have to go see the fabric in store.

That should be the one yes.

Fabric Code
"S1005-15588-C3"

Name of Fabric
"Marling & Evans - Cream & Brown Glen Check "

The images are kinda useless and why I ended up my posting my coat in the thread, to show people how it would look made up into a coat.

The fabric code for my coat matches the one in S&M's MTO section. I double checked.

I don't know if they would have it in store or if you live in Toronto, but it'd be worth checking out.

AFAIK, S&M does not send swatches. The other solution is calling up Marling & Evans directly to order a sample to see if it's right for you. Can contact them directly on instagram, and they also have a number you can call.

I can say that the fabric is indeed fuzzy and a bit blurry up close, just like the image on the S&M website. It is definitely very tweedy, and not sharply defined like the other guy's coat up there. The texture is "flatter" than my Zanieri herringbone polo coat, but also less scratchy. I think the bold pattern carries enough visual weight to make up for the texture. It's also a bit heavier.
S1005-99.jpg


Hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions or need more details and pictures.
 

hysteria

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Thanks bro, I appreciate it.

That coat looks dramatic and perfectly well done, I'd wear that one too!

I don't think it would be available at S&M though. The large peak lapels, heavily roped shoulders is not part of any standard coat pattern I've seen from them.

That should be the one yes.

Fabric Code
"S1005-15588-C3"

Name of Fabric
"Marling & Evans - Cream & Brown Glen Check "

The images are kinda useless and why I ended up my posting my coat in the thread, to show people how it would look made up into a coat.

The fabric code for my coat matches the one in S&M's MTO section. I double checked.

I don't know if they would have it in store or if you live in Toronto, but it'd be worth checking out.

AFAIK, S&M does not send swatches if you live outside of Toronto. The other solution is calling up Marling & Evans directly to order a sample to see if it's right for you.

I can say that the fabric is indeed fuzzy and a bit blurry up close, just like the image on the S&M website. It is definitely very tweedy, and not sharply defined like the other guy's coat up there.
S1005-99.jpg


Hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions or need more details and pictures.

It's very helpful that you shared your coat. I agree, the fabric image is kind of useless, but seeing your coat fully fleshed out is very helpful. I do live in Toronto, so I will call and find out if they have samples.

You have actually made my decision more complicated haha. Here I was, trying to decide whether to get the green coat. Now, I'm stuck deciding whether to get the green or get this fantastic pattern done in MTO, which is also $400 more expensive, so after taxes it'll come out to $1300-ish, which is hefty for a coat where I won't be able to dictate all the finishes. For example: I prefer slanted pockets like the coat from the photo up top with that sharp coat, instead of patch pockets. Even harder to make a decision without knowing what it will look like exactly once it's finished.

It would HELP if you're able to share some more photos of your coat. The one you posted in the other forum was kind of hazy/blurry, so it's hard to appreciate the details.

Also, that blue-teal ulster coat by SJC has really captivated my attention. HAving said that, it seems very hard to justify owning that coat unless you have 4-5 others or have a lot of $$. It's just very fancy and would not be easy to wear on a regular basis.
 

FlyingHorker

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It's very helpful that you shared your coat. I agree, the fabric image is kind of useless, but seeing your coat fully fleshed out is very helpful. I do live in Toronto, so I will call and find out if they have samples.

You have actually made my decision more complicated haha. Here I was, trying to decide whether to get the green coat. Now, I'm stuck deciding whether to get the green or get this fantastic pattern done in MTO, which is also $400 more expensive, so after taxes it'll come out to $1300-ish, which is hefty for a coat where I won't be able to dictate all the finishes. For example: I prefer slanted pockets like the coat from the photo up top with that sharp coat, instead of patch pockets. Even harder to make a decision without knowing what it will look like exactly once it's finished.

It would HELP if you're able to share some more photos of your coat. The one you posted in the other forum was kind of hazy/blurry, so it's hard to appreciate the details.

Also, that blue-teal ulster coat by SJC has really captivated my attention. HAving said that, it seems very hard to justify owning that coat unless you have 4-5 others or have a lot of $$. It's just very fancy and would not be easy to wear on a regular basis.
Hahahaha, welcome to the hobby!

If budget isn't an issue, nothing wrong with having multiple coats. Also best to mull this over IMO if not in a rush.

You're asking all the right questions though, MTO/MTM/Bespoke can be a gamble because you don't know exactly how things will turn out. If you do prefer slanted pockets on polo coats that will make it harder to make a decision.

IMO, slanted pockets look off with polo and/or many type of DB coats.

For sure. I made a post a year ago. This was before I had the coat sleeves and length of the coat shortened. The blurry pic from the S&M thread is after I had it shortened, if that makes sense.


Some other useful threads where you can ask people for advice are:

Ongoing Bespoke Projects | Page 465 | Styleforum
Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread | Page 2213 | Styleforum
 

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