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The Overcoat Thread

brax

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Skimpy? I meant fuller and longer
Very happy that I didn’t go fuller. It is a topcoat. It would not look right with an overcoat silhouette. Fish or foul. Not both.

As I mentioned in a different thread, it could be bit longer. Three additional inches would cover my knees. I could go either way and my tailor thought this length was better as too much black would give off an undertaker vibe. I can live with that.
 

kylepw

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Very happy that I didn’t go fuller. It is a topcoat. It would not look right with an overcoat silhouette. Fish or foul. Not both.

As I mentioned in a different thread, it could be bit longer. Three additional inches would cover my knees. I could go either way and my tailor thought this length was better as too much black would give off an undertaker vibe. I can live with that.
Yeah, overcoats are knee length or longer or go home (for me). I can see the potential undertaker vibe if it were past the knee. Good call. The length looks ideal for going in and out of a vehicle without the fuss.
 

heldentenor

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I had this made MTM in December. W. Bill melton in 600g navy. Completely unstructured with gauntlet cuffs. Made to be worn with tailoring, but the only image I have is of it worn more casually.

New Overcoat #2.jpg
 

FlyingHorker

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What's a reasonable chest circumference for an overcoat with set-in sleeves? I want a roomy, drapey look, but not falling off of me.

I found one that is 44", and my actual chest is 38". Most of my sports coats have a 42" chest and fit me slightly loose, which I prefer.

I've gone as big as 49" for a raglan coat, but that isn't the same effect as defined sleeves and shoulders.
 

kylepw

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What's a reasonable chest circumference for an overcoat with set-in sleeves? I want a roomy, drapey look, but not falling off of me.

I found one that is 44", and my actual chest is 38". Most of my sports coats have a 42" chest and fit me slightly loose, which I prefer.

I've gone as big as 49" for a raglan coat, but that isn't the same effect as defined sleeves and shoulders.
Sounds like what you are looking for is something similar to Chrysalis Kensington cut, which is a UK brand but very popular in Asia. Chrysalis doesn't list exact measurements on the site, but this Korean site does. May help: https://barbershop.co.kr/product/detail.html?product_no=4374&cate_no=259&display_group=1

Also, I'd check vintage 60s raglan tweed overcoats and vintage Burberry trench coat measurements on eBay. These overcoats are made to go over a sport coat, so I wouldn't go oversize like you might have to on modern pieces.

Note: just noticed you want a set-in sleeve overcoat, not raglan. In either case, chest should work the same way. As a personal preference though, I really think raglan goes well with a roomy, drapey coat.

Screen Shot 2022-02-26 at 19.03.16.png
 
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FlyingHorker

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Sounds like what you are looking for is something similar to Chrysalis Kensington cut, which is a UK brand but very popular in Asia. Chrysalis doesn't list exact measurements on the site, but this Korean site does. May help: https://barbershop.co.kr/product/detail.html?product_no=4374&cate_no=259&display_group=1

Also, I'd check vintage 60s raglan tweed overcoats and vintage Burberry trench coat measurements on eBay. These overcoats are made to go over a sport coat, so I wouldn't go oversize like you might have to on modern pieces.

Note: just noticed you want a set-in sleeve overcoat, not raglan. In either case, chest should work the same way. As a personal preference though, I really think raglan goes well with a roomy, drapey coat.

View attachment 1759366
Oops, I apologize, I realize I worded this without any clarity.

I basically found a polo coat on Ebay with a 44" chest circumference in a 51" length. I'm trying to figure out if this will work for me or not. I can't tell the length for sure either as they measured from the front, rather than from the base of the collar from the back.



I am uncertain about the length. I was thinking of having it shortened 6-8" so it isn't dragging along my ankles, but then others have told me the pocket placement would be far too close to the hem. A 44-45" coat is as long as I'll go.

Then there's the case of the wear and tear holes on the skirt. Leaning towards no on this one.

I did actually recently pick up an old '50s raglan coat that is enormous and I'm in love with it.






 

comrade

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Oops, I apologize, I realize I worded this without any clarity.

I basically found a polo coat on Ebay with a 44" chest circumference in a 51" length. I'm trying to figure out if this will work for me or not. I can't tell the length for sure either as they measured from the front, rather than from the base of the collar from the back.



I am uncertain about the length. I was thinking of having it shortened 6-8" so it isn't dragging along my ankles, but then others have told me the pocket placement would be far too close to the hem. A 44-45" coat is as long as I'll go.

Then there's the case of the wear and tear holes on the skirt. Leaning towards no on this one.

I did actually recently pick up an old '50s raglan coat that is enormous and I'm in love with it.
A rule of thumb is that for a jacket one goes 2" greater than actual chest measurement.
Probably more for a coat. So a size 42 R jacket has a chest measurement of 44" in at
a minimum. Obviously, how one is actually built matters not just chest measurement.
 

FlyingHorker

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A rule of thumb is that for a jacket one goes 2" greater than actual chest measurement.
Probably more for a coat. So a size 42 R jacket has a chest measurement of 44" in at
a minimum. Obviously, how one is actually built matters not just chest measurement.
I should have elaborated. I'm a 38" chest, and all my sports coats around 42" for a comfortable fit that is slightly loose.

The coat up there is a moot point because apparently it's riddled with moth holes.
 

nmprisons

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I'm planning to get a bespoke "overcoat" made. I'd like to hear thoughts on the difference between these two lapel approaches:

tumblr_mi134pMyoZ1rozfq7o1_500.jpg

tumblr_n2lm02uu4U1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg

I can't figure out which I prefer aesthetically, and which I'm more likely to prefer wearing. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
 

classicalthunde

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I'm planning to get a bespoke "overcoat" made. I'd like to hear thoughts on the difference between these two lapel approaches:

View attachment 1766339

View attachment 1766340

I can't figure out which I prefer aesthetically, and which I'm more likely to prefer wearing. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
The top strikes me as more casual and fashion forward. The bottom is more formal and classic.

I think you should think about how each Would fit into your wardrobe - do you wear suits for work? If so, the guards coat at the bottom would easily fit. Or do you wear sport coats and/or casual outfits more? If so, the top Ulster would be a good addition
 

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