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The Overcoat Thread

spacenegroes

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My general recommendation for a One Coat for young doods is probably a true greyscale herringbone - something that resolves to like a mid grey. This would cover you IF you ever have to wear a suit, but also works with jeans and everything in between. Camel stuff probably works at least as well formally, but might be a bit too much for some denim based looks.

Stuff like a brown herringbone would work for your lifestyle, but probably a bit less optimal for those rare occurrences you need to wear a suit.

Specific to your links - the Marling+Evans natural Ulster looks a bit warm toned for my ideal neutral. And I agree that the roped shoulders on the Polo look a bit off, and skews the look away from your more casual attire.

Yeah I was leaning towards the gray herringbone "Liberty coat." Unfortunately, my only winter weight suit, which would be the suit I would be wearing this over when I do wear it over a suit, is a gray POW check.
 

William Kazak

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Hey all, I've moved to a cold place recently and need a winter overcoat. Really never paid much attention to them before, so I'm not sure what style really gives me what I want. Hoping for some advice.

  • I'm hoping to mostly wear it open/unbuttoned, with the collar up (but obviously sometimes will have to close it up) as I really love the look of a big upright collar.
  • I never wear suits, only a few times a year, and sport coats also infrequently. So most of the time I'll be wearing it over chunky wool sweaters in earth tones, flecked/donegal, and textured navy. Would want to be able to wear it with jeans, corduroy trousers, wool trousers. As such, I'm looking for something more casual.
  • I'm probably wanting a drapier cut rather than a slim fit. Something that kind of has that big flowy feel, sort of like what trenches do, rather than a refined minimalist with straight lines. (Hence also wanting to wear it mostly open.)

S&M just came out with a bunch for the season. Intrigued by the Ulster, the Liberty Coat (what is a liberty coat anyway? I couldn't google it), and the Polo (though I'm worried the roped shoulders make it look too formal). What would suit my preferences above the best?
When I read your post I thought of a camel hair coat that is not double breasted. Not being double breasted, you could wear it open.
 

comrade

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Nothing big and /or "flowy" about the S & M version of these models. I am not sure whether what you are looking for is available at these price points.Check out these:


And these:

 

spacenegroes

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Nothing big and /or "flowy" about the S & M version of these models. I am not sure whether what you are looking for is available at these price points.Check out these:


And these:


I visit the UK semi-frequently but not the US. The Cordings coats bought in person wouldn't be that much more expensive than S&M after paying duties. But I don't see any Cordings coats that particularly fit what I'm looking for. The camel polo is in a pretty saturated and dark tan that seems less versatile, the Follifoot has a shirt collar style, and the only other is the Coldstream Loden which is only in navy and dark brown. Maybe I'm not seeing the right options?
 

Fancy_Clown

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I ended up ordering the Wythe raglan in black & cream harringbone after considerable hemming and hawing over the choice between that & Private White coat. Feel like there probably was no wrong choice between the two of them, except perhaps to my bank account, but that didn’t make it any easier. Ultimately the patch pockets, no fly front, and slightly roomier measurements pushed me to the Wythe even though I think I’ll miss the donegal flecking and bronze liner color of the PWVC coat.

Thanks to the members here for answering my earlier Q’s and offering some alternative choices.
 

sammywammy

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I ended up ordering the Wythe raglan in black & cream harringbone after considerable hemming and hawing over the choice between that & Private White coat. Feel like there probably was no wrong choice between the two of them, except perhaps to my bank account, but that didn’t make it any easier. Ultimately the patch pockets, no fly front, and slightly roomier measurements pushed me to the Wythe even though I think I’ll miss the donegal flecking and bronze liner color of the PWVC coat.

Thanks to the members here for answering my earlier Q’s and offering some alternative choices.
would be very curious to hear what you think once you have it. I have a PS donegal in brown, which I picked up on here and which I love. thoughtful design, beautiful details and fabric (but a little fitted for my taste). But I was/am ever so close to putting it up for sale and buying the Wythe raglan (warm grey twill for me).
 

Fancy_Clown

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would be very curious to hear what you think once you have it. I have a PS donegal in brown, which I picked up on here and which I love. thoughtful design, beautiful details and fabric (but a little fitted for my taste). But I was/am ever so close to putting it up for sale and buying the Wythe raglan (warm grey twill for me).
Yeah I’ll share some thoughts when it gets here. The warm grey is beautiful, and in fact I might have gone for that had it not been the heaviest of their tweeds since there’s already been a glut of 70 degree November days here that have made me increasingly anxious I’m only going to be able to wear one of these coats a few days of the year. For those curious, I emailed Wythe asking about the weight of the coats and while they couldn’t give me specific weights they said the warm grey was the heaviest, then the brown/cream, and then the black/cream being the lightest.
 

ha er

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Nothing big and /or "flowy" about the S & M version of these models. I am not sure whether what you are looking for is available at these price points.Check out these:

some of the coats of cordings looking great, especially the fawn covert coat catchs my eyes.
does someone of you gents own it?
 

Fancy_Clown

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would be very curious to hear what you think once you have it. I have a PS donegal in brown, which I picked up on here and which I love. thoughtful design, beautiful details and fabric (but a little fitted for my taste). But I was/am ever so close to putting it up for sale and buying the Wythe raglan (warm grey twill for me).
The coat came in last night and I gave it a quick try on, so here are my word vomit impressions at first blush:

The fit is near perfect — the shoulders drape beautifully and the coat hits below my knees. I haven’t tried layering in it yet but it definitely seems roomy enough for me to some thick knits and a mid layer jacket. The only issue with the fit that I noticed is that I might need to have the sleeves extended .5-1 inch, I think mostly because my shoulders fill out the coat so when I raise my arm the sleeves pull up more than I like, though they hit at a good point when my arms are relaxed. I’m not too experienced with having many things altered but there seems to be plenty of material around the cuff to extend the sleeves a couple inches. I probably could have even sized up to an XL (I’m typically an L) and still have it look good, but I think the L is the right balance of being able to layer quite a bit but not look wrong if I just have like a henley or something underneath it. I’m almost certain if I had gotten the Private White coat in 5/L as I was thinking I’d need to exchange for at least one size up.

The collar stays up when popped and looks fantastic, the yarns are a bit slubbier than in the photos which adds some nice texture, and the cream yarns and lining are both a bit warmer toned than the pictures looked to me as well which made it appear as more of a stark black & white. In fact I thought the lining was silver but it’s actually a pale gold (I’m personally glad for the warmth in the tones).

My worry that the coat would be some absurdly heavy thing was unfounded too, it certainly seems warm and comfortable but it’s not like a parka so I should get plenty of wear from it. I also really like the corozo buttons, they’re pretty hefty and the engraved pattern is beautiful so it’s nice they show when buttoned up. The throat latch also can be stowed on two buttons inside the coat so if you don’t want it on the collar you can safely stow it without having to keep it loose in a pocket.

I can’t compare the coat to first hand experience of the Private White one, but based on pics and details I think if you do swap yours for a Wythe coat it will be a trade off. You might miss some of the finer finishing of the PW like the cashmere lined pockets, for a $1,500 coat the Wythe one is maybe on the simpler side (or more rugged/casual which to me was part of the appeal), but if you have issues with the more fitted silhouette I think you’d be very pleased with the Wythe.
 
Last edited:

garigo

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Drake’s polo coat.

IMG_1352.jpeg
 

cl smooth

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What’s the warmest overcoat there is? Like, is there anything that can actually compete with a down parka?
 

comrade

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A down overcoat 😉
But there are other options like fur lined overcoat
Heavy meltons like British Warms and Bridge Coats. Also, some heavy tweed Balmacaans come close. I wore an Invertere melton great coat on -0 F days in Chicago
when it involved standing out doors on a commuter rail platform and walking blocks
to my office. I also wore a 32 oz British Warm. At the time, it seemed inappropriate
to wear a down jacket over a suit, especially not a long one.
 

othertravel

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What’s the warmest overcoat there is? Like, is there anything that can actually compete with a down parka?

It's the 'Bruce Wayne's dad look'.
 

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