The Overcoat Thread

[Spaghettimatt]

Does anyone have experience with vintage Japanese-made Burberry raglan overcoats? I think they were made by Sanyo Shokai for the domestic Japanese market…. I’m debating picking one up but not sure how they are compare to the English ones.

 

[symphvaria]

You took TTS? I can never find 36 to try on

I take a S/36 in almost every US brand except for RL where I take M/38. Took 38 in the polo coat and have no trouble fitting a sport coat underneath.

 

[Fancy_Clown]

I’m looking at picking up a quality balmacaan this winter and have zeroed in on the Wythe or Permanent Style offerings. Anyone have either of these and can offer their thoughts? I’m getting this coat with the hopes of something really versatile since my current winter coats are limited to a heavy Land’s End parka for really nasty weather and a not very nice Abercrombie navy coat that’s too slim to layer and not warm enough on its own for most winter weather. I’d like something that can pair well with a bit of tailoring but realistically I’d wear mostly with casual clothes, hence being drawn to the raglan & tweed. I’m drawn to the herringbone patterns the most but can’t decide whether to go with a black/cream herringbone or one of the lighter browns that Wythe offers. My gut tells me the gray would be more versatile since it expands the amount of more formal clothes I could pair with it, but I do have a lot of earthier color clothes that would probably go well with the brown. Probably overthinking this but since this would be a large investment in a single piece for me I’d like some advice from some more experienced menswear folk.

 

[slows2k]

I’m looking at picking up a quality balmacaan this winter and have zeroed in on the Wythe or Permanent Style offerings. Anyone have either of these and can offer their thoughts? I’m getting this coat with the hopes of something really versatile since my current winter coats are limited to a heavy Land’s End parka for really nasty weather and a not very nice Abercrombie navy coat that’s too slim to layer and not warm enough on its own for most winter weather. I’d like something that can pair well with a bit of tailoring but realistically I’d wear mostly with casual clothes, hence being drawn to the raglan & tweed. I’m drawn to the herringbone patterns the most but can’t decide whether to go with a black/cream herringbone or one of the lighter browns that Wythe offers. My gut tells me the gray would be more versatile since it expands the amount of more formal clothes I could pair with it, but I do have a lot of earthier color clothes that would probably go well with the brown. Probably overthinking this but since this would be a large investment in a single piece for me I’d like some advice from some more experienced menswear folk.

I have had a couple of the PWVC x PS coats, currently own the black/cream herringbone balmacaan and the heavier overcoat. Happy to answer whatever questions you have, if I can.

 

[Fancy_Clown]

I have had a couple of the PWVC x PS coats, currently own the black/cream herringbone balmacaan and the heavier overcoat. Happy to answer whatever questions you have, if I can.

Great! Yeah I have a couple q’s if you don’t mind, especially since color & patten wise I think your coat is the one I’m most drawn to.
1) what’s the weight/warmth like on the coat? I’m hoping for something I can easily layer up with when it’s at freezing temps and stay warm but also still be able to comfortably wear when its a bit warmer than that, especially as winters are starting to generally become warmer.
2) How’s the fit? I’m usually a size large (6’3”, 190lbs, usually a 42L jacket) and I compared the size chart to the Wythe coat and it looks a fair bit slimmer, but I’ve seen some reviews say they were swimming in theirs. I’d like to be able to wear some thick knits under it and the occasionally sport coat.
3) Have you had any issues with the collar staying up when popped?
4) More generally, is there anything you particularly like or don’t like about the coat?

 

[ppk]

I’m looking at picking up a quality balmacaan this winter and have zeroed in on the Wythe or Permanent Style offerings. Anyone have either of these and can offer their thoughts? I’m getting this coat with the hopes of something really versatile since my current winter coats are limited to a heavy Land’s End parka for really nasty weather and a not very nice Abercrombie navy coat that’s too slim to layer and not warm enough on its own for most winter weather. I’d like something that can pair well with a bit of tailoring but realistically I’d wear mostly with casual clothes, hence being drawn to the raglan & tweed. I’m drawn to the herringbone patterns the most but can’t decide whether to go with a black/cream herringbone or one of the lighter browns that Wythe offers. My gut tells me the gray would be more versatile since it expands the amount of more formal clothes I could pair with it, but I do have a lot of earthier color clothes that would probably go well with the brown. Probably overthinking this but since this would be a large investment in a single piece for me I’d like some advice from some more experienced menswear folk.

Another option might be SEH Kelly. They have a great Balmacaan that I purchased, but they also have an Ulster and a British Warm. I have the Balmacaan and it's fantastic. It's very versatile where I am (temperate winters) I have layered it a few times with a chunky sweater and a sport coat. I think their page will answer most of the questions above.

Paul, one of the principals, is very active in their thread here.

 

[Fancy_Clown]

Another option might be SEH Kelly. They have a great Balmacaan that I purchased, but they also have an Ulster and a British Warm. I have the Balmacaan and it's fantastic. It's very versatile where I am (temperate winters) I have layered it a few times with a chunky sweater and a sport coat. I think their page will answer most of the questions above.

Paul, one of the principals, is very active in their thread here.

Hey, thanks for the rec ppk. A very handsome coat no doubt, though from the pictures on page it looks a little less drape-y than what I’m looking for. Good to know it’s a versatile fit & weight though, and it’s not *quite* as much of a wallet-buster which is definitely a pro. I’ll keep it in mind as I’m deliberating!

I’m also realizing I’m quite fond of the look of the big patch pockets on the Wythe coats, which doesn’t really make my decision making any easier…

 

[Using Technology]

Hey, thanks for the rec ppk. A very handsome coat no doubt, though from the pictures on page it looks a little less drape-y than what I’m looking for. Good to know it’s a versatile fit & weight though, and it’s not *quite* as much of a wallet-buster which is definitely a pro. I’ll keep it in mind as I’m deliberating!

I’m also realizing I’m quite fond of the look of the big patch pockets on the Wythe coats, which doesn’t really make my decision making any easier…

If drapey and big pockets are what you want, there is also the forum favorite Kaptain Sunshine traveller coats. But the Wythe and PS are both excellent too. I think you're correct the white/black herringbone is probably more versatile by a little. But can't really go wrong with either.

 

[slows2k]

1) what’s the weight/warmth like on the coat? I’m hoping for something I can easily layer up with when it’s at freezing temps and stay warm but also still be able to comfortably wear when its a bit warmer than that, especially as winters are starting to generally become warmer.
2) How’s the fit? I’m usually a size large (6’3”, 190lbs, usually a 42L jacket) and I compared the size chart to the Wythe coat and it looks a fair bit slimmer, but I’ve seen some reviews say they were swimming in theirs. I’d like to be able to wear some thick knits under it and the occasionally sport coat.
3) Have you had any issues with the collar staying up when popped?
4) More generally, is there anything you particularly like or don’t like about the coat?

It's reasonably warm without being unwearable unless extremely cold. I live in the bay area, California, and find it perfect for cold days here most of the time, and certainly fine with layers in colder weather, but that is so rare for us here. I wear it casually the most over long sleeved shirts alone.

The fit is slim for its given size, so YMMV but since I do not layer much my TTS works perfectly. If I wanted I could probably size up one for the body but the arm length would be extreme; I already have to have a couple inches taken off the sleeve as it is. Short dude with short arms. I am 5'7/8, athletic, and take a (40US) 4/M. I def feel comfy with a lot of space but if i wanted to layer a lot or really go for the drapey look, I might take a 5/L.

No issues with the collar staying up; it's how I wear it the most. Honestly, it's hard to find anything to really critique about it. The first version had narrower sleeves but they fixed that on all the current ones. the collar points sit slightly differently but that also seems to be related to storage.

There are a few pics of me in mine a few pages back.

The Overcoat Thread

Thanks! I was kind of in the same situation with the granddad. I'm typically a 52 but the 52 granddad was definitely way too large on me, it looked absurd. I ended up going with the 50, which is still roomy through the waist but I wish the chest was just a tiny bit larger. Tried to get some...

www.styleforum.net

Honestly, I absolutely love it and really enjoy wearing it when I get a chance. I love it enough that one of the navy blue variants is on my radar as well, to have a darker color. PS: if anyone has a 4/M in the navy donegal and no longer wants it, PM me.

 

[Fancy_Clown]

It's reasonably warm without being unwearable unless extremely cold. I live in the bay area, California, and find it perfect for cold days here most of the time, and certainly fine with layers in colder weather, but that is so rare for us here. I wear it casually the most over long sleeved shirts alone.

The fit is slim for its given size, so YMMV but since I do not layer much my TTS works perfectly. If I wanted I could probably size up one for the body but the arm length would be extreme; I already have to have a couple inches taken off the sleeve as it is. Short dude with short arms. I am 5'7/8, athletic, and take a (40US) 4/M. I def feel comfy with a lot of space but if i wanted to layer a lot or really go for the drapey look, I might take a 5/L.

No issues with the collar staying up; it's how I wear it the most. Honestly, it's hard to find anything to really critique about it. The first version had narrower sleeves but they fixed that on all the current ones. the collar points sit slightly differently but that also seems to be related to storage.

There are a few pics of me in mine a few pages back.

The Overcoat Thread

Thanks! I was kind of in the same situation with the granddad. I'm typically a 52 but the 52 granddad was definitely way too large on me, it looked absurd. I ended up going with the 50, which is still roomy through the waist but I wish the chest was just a tiny bit larger. Tried to get some...

www.styleforum.net

Honestly, I absolutely love it and really enjoy wearing it when I get a chance. I love it enough that one of the navy blue variants is on my radar as well, to have a darker color. PS: if anyone has a 4/M in the navy donegal and no longer wants it, PM me.

Hey great endorsement and I appreciate the thorough reply. I’m in the DC area so if it’s not too warm for the Bay area than I’d certainly get some wear out of it over here. The fit looks sick in your pics, that’s definitely the sort of silhouette I’m after. If I do end up going for that one I imagine a 5 would probably work for me though not sure it would hit much below my knees.

If drapey and big pockets are what you want, there is also the forum favorite Kaptain Sunshine traveller coats. But the Wythe and PS are both excellent too. I think you're correct the white/black herringbone is probably more versatile by a little. But can't really go wrong with either.

The Kaptain Sunshine is a great looking coat as well, love the shape. If I weren’t feeling kinda set on a textured/patterned tweed it would be a top contender.

 

[twuthetiger]

Got this off a fellow SF member. Orazio Luciano cashmere coat. Feels supremely comfy. Loving it so far

 

[spacenegroes]

Hey all, I've moved to a cold place recently and need a winter overcoat. Really never paid much attention to them before, so I'm not sure what style really gives me what I want. Hoping for some advice.

• I'm hoping to mostly wear it open/unbuttoned, with the collar up (but obviously sometimes will have to close it up) as I really love the look of a big upright collar.
• I never wear suits, only a few times a year, and sport coats also infrequently. So most of the time I'll be wearing it over chunky wool sweaters in earth tones, flecked/donegal, and textured navy. Would want to be able to wear it with jeans, corduroy trousers, wool trousers. As such, I'm looking for something more casual.
• I'm probably wanting a drapier cut rather than a slim fit. Something that kind of has that big flowy feel, sort of like what trenches do, rather than a refined minimalist with straight lines. (Hence also wanting to wear it mostly open.)

S&M just came out with a bunch for the season. Intrigued by the Ulster, the Liberty Coat (what is a liberty coat anyway? I couldn't google it), and the Polo (though I'm worried the roped shoulders make it look too formal). What would suit my preferences above the best?

 

[clee1982]

Not quite sure why but their polo looks off to me, I would prefer ulster

 

[clee1982]

PRL’s DB coat this season, can’t find the camel one to try in person but others available in 36. Fit and shape is nice but weight doesn’t feel like serious winter stuff (the camel one was available in much bigger size and feels way more substantial/heavy than this)

 

[circumspice]

Hey all, I've moved to a cold place recently and need a winter overcoat. Really never paid much attention to them before, so I'm not sure what style really gives me what I want. Hoping for some advice.

• I'm hoping to mostly wear it open/unbuttoned, with the collar up (but obviously sometimes will have to close it up) as I really love the look of a big upright collar.
• I never wear suits, only a few times a year, and sport coats also infrequently. So most of the time I'll be wearing it over chunky wool sweaters in earth tones, flecked/donegal, and textured navy. Would want to be able to wear it with jeans, corduroy trousers, wool trousers. As such, I'm looking for something more casual.
• I'm probably wanting a drapier cut rather than a slim fit. Something that kind of has that big flowy feel, sort of like what trenches do, rather than a refined minimalist with straight lines. (Hence also wanting to wear it mostly open.)

S&M just came out with a bunch for the season. Intrigued by the Ulster, the Liberty Coat (what is a liberty coat anyway? I couldn't google it), and the Polo (though I'm worried the roped shoulders make it look too formal). What would suit my preferences above the best?

My general recommendation for a One Coat for young doods is probably a true greyscale herringbone - something that resolves to like a mid grey. This would cover you IF you ever have to wear a suit, but also works with jeans and everything in between. Camel stuff probably works at least as well formally, but might be a bit too much for some denim based looks.

Stuff like a brown herringbone would work for your lifestyle, but probably a bit less optimal for those rare occurrences you need to wear a suit.

Specific to your links - the Marling+Evans natural Ulster looks a bit warm toned for my ideal neutral. And I agree that the roped shoulders on the Polo look a bit off, and skews the look away from your more casual attire.