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The Overcoat Thread

Despos

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That's interesting to read....I'd pictured it as being something I would wear mostly with casual suits or odd jacket and trousers, but it sounds like you found it to be even more casual in practice?



Thanks! Any details you would suggest? I'm off to Google all the images of ones I can find, but I'm just curious what your perspective would be having made a few of them.
It's making the same decision of getting a tuxedo with shawl or peak. They have their own vibe.
You lose the opportunity to cross the lapels over like you do with an Ulster to give more protection from wind. You can cross them over but the design of a shawl narrows towards the neck.
Think the look is optimized on a taller frame. Shawls look better the longer they are.
 

dieworkwear

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That's interesting to read....I'd pictured it as being something I would wear mostly with casual suits or odd jacket and trousers, but it sounds like you found it to be even more casual in practice?
I have the Document robe coat and like it, but mostly think of this style as an SWD thing. I wear mine with wide pants, chunky sweaters, and side-zip boots. Sometimes also jeans, but I don't like wearing it with things that are too classic.


tumblr_o2qlv2knXS1sby8suo1_1280.jpeg
 

kylepw

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Thrifted a 60s Richman Brother's overcoat a few years back in my impossible-to-find size 36 but always been curious about the shoulders. They seem to round out, instead of falling straight down my shoulder line. Look strange on me? Or just how coats were made at the time? Curious on your thoughts about tweed overcoat fit. For reference, I'm wearing a Barbour Gamefair in size 38.

PXL_20220123_162529540.jpg

PXL_20220123_162427702.jpg
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FlyingHorker

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Thrifted a 60s Richman Brother's overcoat a few years back in my impossible-to-find size 36 but always been curious about the shoulders. They seem to round out, instead of falling straight down my shoulder line. Look strange on me? Or just how coats were made at the time? Curious on your thoughts about tweed overcoat fit. For reference, I'm wearing a Barbour Gamefair in size 38.

View attachment 1742181

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Coat looks fine to me.

Combined with your very square shoulders, I dig the straight raglan silhouette.

Some may argue that raglans pair best with people with very square or broad shoulders.

Member "Dannefalk" had a similiar coat made for him that sticks out in my mind.

 

kylepw

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Coat looks fine to me.

Combined with your very square shoulders, I dig the straight raglan silhouette.

Some may argue that raglans pair best with people with very square or broad shoulders.

Member "Dannefalk" had a similiar coat made for him that sticks out in my mind.

Appreciate the feedback! Wow, that does look similar. Shoulder on most raglan overcoats I've seen (like below) seem to drop straight at shoulder as opposed to curving. Interesting (to me at least).
TheJournalofStyle-Raglan-Coat.jpg
 

FlyingHorker

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Appreciate the feedback! Wow, that does look similar. Shoulder on most raglan overcoats I've seen (like below) seem to drop straight at shoulder as opposed to curving. Interesting (to me at least).
View attachment 1742257
I also find it interesting and I'm not sure of the cause. @Despos may know more on what the differences are.
 

WhereNext

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It's making the same decision of getting a tuxedo with shawl or peak. They have their own vibe.
You lose the opportunity to cross the lapels over like you do with an Ulster to give more protection from wind. You can cross them over but the design of a shawl narrows towards the neck.
Think the look is optimized on a taller frame. Shawls look better the longer they are.
Thanks for this; I don't think I'd want this for the coldest days, so the lack of crossover will hopefully not be an issue.
The bolded part is devastating to my 5'8" self.....

I have the Document robe coat and like it, but mostly think of this style as an SWD thing. I wear mine with wide pants, chunky sweaters, and side-zip boots. Sometimes also jeans, but I don't like wearing it with things that are too classic.


View attachment 1742076
Thanks for this visual, it's helpful (robe coat Google searches tends to give way more female than male finds). I was thinking about having something made without a chest pocket and hip pockets that were more like slash besom pockets.....basically a very minimalist vibe, though I'm not sure how much that would change the relative amount of formality in the coat. But again, just starting the thinking about it, so all inputs/pictures are helpful!
 
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bc78

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Looking for a fairly formal navy coat that either has a throat latch or buttons up all the way to the neck. (I don't really like wearing a scarf.) Would also like it to be knee length or longer and probably at least 650 gsm. Any recommendations?
 

comrade

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Looking for a fairly formal navy coat that either has a throat latch or buttons up all the way to the neck. (I don't really like wearing a scarf.) Would also like it to be knee length or longer and probably at least 650 gsm. Any recommendations?

Cheap.


Maybe same coat.
 
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goalaso

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I have an old thrifted black wool double breasted overcoat with patch pockets, that also has low profile 6 inch ****s cut into its sides so that your hands can go into your underlying pant pockets without having to unbutton the coat or lift it up, as you might awkwardly do with double vented coats. I *love* this detail. I haven't seen it on any modern coats I've others liked. Does anyone know what the name for this feature is? I feel like it's out there, but I don't know what to call it, which is a huge handicap for online search...

EDIT: no idea why "****s" is ****'d out in the above text, and I can't edit it. It's not a cuss word. It's a long, narrow opening :/
 

bc78

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thatboyo

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I have an old thrifted black wool double breasted overcoat with patch pockets, that also has low profile 6 inch ****s cut into its sides so that your hands can go into your underlying pant pockets without having to unbutton the coat or lift it up, as you might awkwardly do with double vented coats. I *love* this detail. I haven't seen it on any modern coats I've others liked. Does anyone know what the name for this feature is? I feel like it's out there, but I don't know what to call it, which is a huge handicap for online search...

EDIT: no idea why "****s" is ****'d out in the above text, and I can't edit it. It's not a cuss word. It's a long, narrow opening :/
I believe fitchet is the term for it. SEH Kelly has it on some of their coats but the majority of RTW today won’t have this feature. You’re better off going vintage.
 

goalaso

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Thank you so much @thatboyo . This is why I'm on this forum. The word/history geek in me is thrilled right now. Fitchet. Now to find out why such a useful feature would fall out of use. I would gladly pay a tailor to add this after the fact, but don't know if that's feasible
 

tamimasa

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So... should I take in around the waist and shorten the sleeves a bit?

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