The Overcoat Thread

[classicalthunde]

I would just say the front back balance perhaps. Question is whether it’s really worth it given I got this coat for $1600 vs. MTM or bespoke being north of double…

Where'd you find this for $1600?!

 

[symphvaria]

Husbands makes a raglan coat with belt, back pleat and a great collar. I had one made in Permanent Style donegal tweed a couple of years ago (more details here). They don't seem to be offering a RTW one at the moment, but maybe you could ask them about MTO.

View attachment 2253235 View attachment 2253237

Yeah, this coat you MTO’d was more or less the inspiration for what I’m asking for. How much did the project end up running you?

 

[clee1982]

Where'd you find this for $1600?!

bloomingdales F&F + signup bonus

Ralph Lauren lines, and 'who makes what' - a definitive guide

polo has made in USA (I thought that's hickey freeman?), made in Portugal, made in Slovakia (Corneliani), and made in Italy these days I think

www.styleforum.net

 

[clee1982]

Yeah, this coat you MTO’d was more or less the inspiration for what I’m asking for. How much did the project end up running you?

better re-ask husbands, price definitely have gone up after they changed factory, but still comparable to RTW (RTW price also went up)

 

[garigo]

Yeah, this coat you MTO’d was more or less the inspiration for what I’m asking for. How much did the project end up running you?

better re-ask husbands, price definitely have gone up after they changed factory, but still comparable to RTW (RTW price also went up)

Yes I'm not exactly sure, probably around 1500 €. Worth noting that the same cloth is also available to order on the PS website right now.

 

[comrade]

For our high net-worth members here's a Balmacaan from Anderson & Sheppard
with a back pleat. No belt. My guess it that they can make you a belt, and a hood
for that matter.

Handwoven Herringbone Woollen Overcoat In Brown

Hand woven in England 17oz Tweed Two side pockets Two in breast pockets Full length back vent Button tab closure for optional closing of back vent Tab and button closure on sleeve to narrow cuff Horn buttons

shop.anderson-sheppard.co.uk

 

[comrade]

As I've mentioned elsewhere on SF, I love British Warm overcoats. Wore a 32 oz.
one from Chipp for years of Chicago winters. Here's a variant with a belt on British
Field Marshall Alan Brooke during World War 2 inspecting German POWs. See Monty to his left.

 

[symphvaria]

For our high net-worth members here's a Balmacaan from Anderson & Sheppard
with a back pleat. No belt. My guess it that they can make you a belt, and a hood
for that matter.

Handwoven Herringbone Woollen Overcoat In Brown

Hand woven in England 17oz Tweed Two side pockets Two in breast pockets Full length back vent Button tab closure for optional closing of back vent Tab and button closure on sleeve to narrow cuff Horn buttons

shop.anderson-sheppard.co.uk

At that price tag I’d rather go bespoke or MTO.

 

[comrade]

At that price tag I’d rather go bespoke or MTO.

I'd be curious to know what A & S would charge for a bespoke version of the
identical coat.

 

[symphvaria]

I'd be curious to know what A & S would charge for a bespoke version of the
identical coat.

Knowing their bespoke tailoring prices, probably close to breaching the 5 figures

 

[clee1982]

3x…?

 

[vegancrabcakes]

At that price tag I’d rather go bespoke or MTO.

Does bespoke make a big difference in fit for something like an overcoat?

 

[classicalthunde]

Does bespoke make a big difference in fit for something like an overcoat?

IMO bespoke is not as important overcoats compared than other types of tailoring (shirts, trousers, suits, etc.) since its not necessarily meant to be a 'form fitting' garment by design.

The three main reasons why you'd want to go down the bespoke route for an overcoat would be:
1) you have an extreme body type
2) you want a style or stylistic details that are not really in major production for RTW (i.e. a traditional ulster or guard's coat)
3) you want your overcoat in a specific fabric or weight

 

[othertravel]

Don't know if this was already posted, but Husbands has a pretty nice piece:

 

[DorianGreen]

IMO bespoke is not as important overcoats compared than other types of tailoring (shirts, trousers, suits, etc.) since its not necessarily meant to be a 'form fitting' garment by design.

The three main reasons why you'd want to go down the bespoke route for an overcoat would be:
1) you have an extreme body type
2) you want a style or stylistic details that are not really in major production for RTW (i.e. a traditional ulster or guard's coat)
3) you want your overcoat in a specific fabric or weight

Exactly my thoughts. If you have a physique with pretty regular measurements, you won't benefit much in terms of fit. Furthermore there are styles intended and designed to be worn rather loose, as a balmacaan, for example.
Reversely, if you need or wish something more fitted, going bespoke would be certainly advantageous.