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The OneShirt v2: Out of Many, One Shirt

TheFoo

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After 3-4 years of going back and forth to Paris and iterating on an order here and there, I finally pulled the trigger on a new shirt arsenal from Charvet. The fabric is a "chambray." Someone will zoom-in on these pictures and tell me otherwise, but I'm beyond the point where the technical distinction matters anymore. I just want a deep, variegated blue shirting that will wear well. No more tissue-paper Riva for me. It's hard to capture the color in photos, but it is a much darker and more saturated blue than I've used in the past.

DSC00540_SMALL.jpg


The collar is an absolute one-off. Not cut from a template. Shirtmaker shaped it on my neck freehand, with shears. I explained I wanted a natural "S" curve, rather than a straight line (what Charvet normally does). It was an interesting process, but I think we ultimately got there. I also asked for the lightest interlining possible.

When I brought my first completed shirt back to Paris 2-3 years ago, we further refined the collar shape. In fact, they took my old shirt and changed the collar to the new version. So now, all are truly one.

DSC00545_SMALL.jpg


As with every one of my bespoke shirts going back to Anna Matuozzo in 2007, I had my monogram added just above the front hem, so it isn't seen when worn.

DSC00548_SMALL.jpg


A couple of ugly stepchildren managed to sneak aboard:

DSC00549_SMALL.jpg


Excited to start wearing these. Next, I think I need some sort of large scale gingham.
 

TheFoo

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Are you certain those are pure cotton?

I actually specifically asked. They were like what the **** kind of operation do you think we are. Anyway, it feels nothing like the slubby poly chambray from Simonnot Godard that people enjoy. It’s really just a meaty poplin. Much more refined “chambray” than most chambray. Must keep in mind the slightly slubby, fuzzy stuff was that way because of the polyester content. 100% quality cotton in a plain weave will be smooth like any other poplin.
 
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dieworkwear

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I actually specifically asked. They were like what the **** kind of operation do you think we are. Anyway, it feels nothing like the slubby poly chambray from Simonnot Godard that people enjoy. It’s really just a meaty poplin. Much more refined “chambray” than most chambray. Must keep in mind the slightly slubby, fuzzy stuff was that way because of the polyester content. 100% quality cotton in a plain weave will me smooth like any other poplin.

Sorry, but I will only accept one test.
 

JJ Katz

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Interesting shirt. I wonder how that collar looks without a tie... Or is it meant to be always worn with a tie?
 

romafan

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Are they short-sleeved? :confused2:

I wouldn't have guessed that you would choose to put your initials on the sleeves like that.
 

TheFoo

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Are they short-sleeved? :confused2:

I wouldn't have guessed that you would choose to put your initials on the sleeves like that.

What? No. The monogram is at the bottom of the front body panel.
 

bdavro23

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A couple of thoughts:

-This looks like nice fabric. Or maybe interesting. Or, I dont know. Something. I'm generally not a fan of saturated shirtings, but I like these in isolation. I will be very interested in seeing them in the wild, please post pictures shortly.

-I second the request to see the collar in action, both with a tie and without. While it looks nice, I struggle to see this as a particularly unique, one of a kind collar. Looking forward to being proven wrong.

-You have to give Foo credit, he is nothing if not committed. I counted 10, though there are probably a dozen of those shirts now residing in his closet. Much like the one shoe thread that brought us all so much joy a few years ago, we now have the one shirt thread. Looking forward to seeing how this plays out and the slow burn it is guaranteed to bring.

-I actually really like the big stripe shirts. There needs to be more aggressive shirts on display I think. Maybe I'm just getting bored with white and pale blue in pictures.
 

dieworkwear

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i think this is the collar when worn

 

romafan

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How does that video have so few views? It’s so good.



What was the final conclusion here? Judging by the "control" burn, it seems that the 'new' style IS cotton, but that the 'old' style was NOT. Is that correct? I guess we would need to somehow verify that the cotton t-shirt swatch WAS indeed 100% cotton. Any ideas?
 

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