The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    This is a matter of taste so I don't really care but spread collars worn casually (sportcoat=already casual) are ugly, without a tie they're abominable.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Another thing: not only is this whole OneShirt strategy not so radical in the grand sartorial scheme of things as many might imagine, but I've been already been practicing it for years. More than half of my shirts are identical, light blue, spread collar, French cuffed shirts. They just aren't chambray. If you count my solid blue OCBDs, then fully three fourths of my shirts are solid blue. The rest are a variety of bengal stripes (light blue and white, dark blue and white), and graph paper checks (which I never wear anymore).

    Yet, nobody's ever criticized one of my outfits for having the wrong sort of shirt.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2013


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, worn fully on its own (but with pants, not mmkn style), a spread collar is very sub-optimal. That is partially why am still open to doing a buttondown collar. However, when worn with a jacket (including odd ones), I think a spread collar always looks great. A buttondown is riskier if only because it is much harder to execute right.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2013


  4. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I'm with you on having the majority of the wardrobe be solid light blue shirts. I'm also with you on getting it dialed in just right and then ordering a boatload of shirts.

    What I have more of a problem with is the stylistic choices on those shirts--particularly the cuff. Seems strange to me outside of formalwear. I understand that you have your reasons for it, but I would certainly hesitate to say that it should be the basis of *the* One-Shirt. Perhaps *your* One-Shirt, but I'd imagine most people would be much better served with a button or French cuff.

    And yeah, you'd need at least some other shirts--button collar, OCBD, at least one solid white, and a couple of stripes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2013


  5. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    A regular point collar, which can be worn both with and without a tie and with a sportscoat or a suit would be much more useful. Now I dunno it's just a thought experiment as the "oneshirt" will make up most of your shirt rotation but leaves place for a few different ones.

    I have around 26-30 shirts, a few of them are weird stuff I rarely wear (formal, black,paisley etc basically weird or specialized stuff I acquired along the way)

    Most of the rest are white or blue (with 3-4 striped ones with a white base), oxfords or poplins and either button down or point. Not oneshirt but not that far....
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    For my buttondown fix, I may do as others suggest and one day turn to Kamakura or the like. But, yes, I will eventually need them if I don't get them now.
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I really despise point collars. I never think they are flattering on anyone. It just looks too closed-up.

    You are right, though--it's not as if I will have zero other shirts to wear. The OneShirt will just be the main player.
     


  8. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    I came to the same realization myself recently. I can't stand the closed-up V formation around my tie. I dumped all my point-collar shirts. Fortunately, I didn't have many.
     


  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    +1.
     


  10. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Couple of comments. I think it's inconsistent that you like french cuff shirts (which are more troublesome to fasten than a barrel cuff) and then say you don't want a gauntlet button because it is too much bother. Then, if the clackity clack of bothers you when typing or whatever, I will venture to say that it is the cufflink that is the cause of the discomfort, not the gauntlet button. If your keyboard looks anything like mine, the place where your wrist rests coincides with the cufflink, not the gauntlet. Personally, I prefer a gauntlet button on FC, and none on barrel cuffs. Buttoning the gauntlet provides just enough tension to keep FC folded sans link. I have no idea why that matters to me in practice (because it should not), but it does. Also, the gaping issue, for the reason Manton explained, which I never realized until I saw myself in a mirror with elbows on the table. It was like looking up my own skirt.

    I appreciate the idea of OneShirt, but with single cuffs, that's just crazy. It's the least versatile option and is rarely the optimal choice, as you often put it. Most of the details are stylistic, but I will say that I have a strong aversion to back darts. I love the idea in concept, but in execution, it often looks like a woman's shirt. I realize most iGents never take off their coat in public, but on the off chance you do, I think it makes a difference. Since darts are not really functional, and aren't aesthetically pleasing, I would dispense with them.
     


  11. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Many point collars may not be great, but many people wear spread collars that are far too wide for their face, IMO.
     


  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    +1. Even el cheapo Borrellis don't start fraying at the 5-6th cycle... And always machine washed (no bags), hung dry and hand ironed.


    Was last years bonus really that bad that you have to settle for a less pricy shirtmaker?

    p.s., aside from the spread collar part, everything looks good... Single cuff choice is interesting as it can be worn both like a barrell cuff and a linked cuff.
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Cheaper fabrics are not necessarily more fragile. Quite often the opposite is true. I am not the only one who has experienced Riva's delicate nature. And directly to your point: my old Borrelli shirts never frayed, yet the cloth is no doubt much cheaper and inferior. If you don't believe me, try Riva for yourself and come back in a year or two.

    The Matuozzo prices are too high because I no longer receive the same level of product or service I once did, and because I now know how short the lifespan can be with fancy Italian shirtings.
     


  14. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    What is the rationale behind the darts? Are you not able to get an acceptable fit without darts? Or do you prefer darts as a matter of styling?
     


  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I haven't been dressing in coat and tie for long, not even close to your nine years, but in this short period of time this has been my experience too. I've dumped all of my non-blue shirts.

    It's either solid blue, dress stripes or bengal stripes for me now. And if I had to have a OneShirt, your idea sounds pretty good.

    Some guys can pull off more "creative" shirts and look good in them, I won't deny it - but those are few exceptions....
     


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