1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    Maybe they can guarantee the polyester is from 1972, the golden age of man-made textiles?
     
    7 people like this.
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    does this mean I have to burn mine?
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    BTW, I agree, no BDs in end on end.
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,544
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    I think you're rushing to judgment here, foo. I'd urge you to go the mass spec route:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    button down in end on end is seriously old school 1960's look.

    everything from Phillips boyne comes from asia
    older 44/45" will be from Japan. the basic broadcloth is ok.

    59/60" fabrics are out of China.

    the minimums for specific fabric is at least 1000 yards.

    It was worth the second degree burns on my fingers to prove I was right.
     
    9 people like this.
  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Just bought some of Torsten's SG chambray at the new closeout price!

    Polyester or not, the price is great and I like the one I have.
     
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,583
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    ...
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
    2 people like this.
  8. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

    Messages:
    9,452
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    I realise you guys are principled and all that....but if the fabric looks nice, feels nice and has decent longevity...what's the problem?

    Wasn't the unique property of the SG Chambray that it's smooth enough to be worn as formally as a blue shirt allows, but textured enough to allow casual shirting, and hence why its premium was justifiable to Foo?

    Why is this property somehow not so unique now that we find out that polyester is blended in?
     
    3 people like this.
  9. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,592
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    

    I say this as someone who has a couple of shirts made from the SG chambray (as well as the voile) ... I believe the original allure of the SG cloth is that it was hard to get and used by shirtmakers and tailors that were placed on a pedestal (primarily because they were hard to access and had all of the iGent checklist checked off). Certain respected posters also had these shirts, and they looked pretty good, too, but I get a feeling it was a bit of the thrill of the hunt.

    Having said that, I'm happy with my shirts, and continue to wear them. I do think that the cloth is OK only for casual or sporting shirts, and not appropriate for dressier shirts, and I didn't think anyone thought otherwise until this thread.

    Also, is there an ending state for the SF hype cycle that ends in actual flames?
     
    6 people like this.
  10. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

    Messages:
    553
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2009
    

    Have you considered cotton-linen blends for lightweight button-downs?

    I'm inclined to go with that in the future, now that your research has demolished my 18th-century-loomed dreams, much in the manner of Ned Lud.
     
  11. wmb

    wmb Senior member

    Messages:
    452
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2008
    I have some shirts in acorn end on end that I am very happy with
     
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    I think this is going to work out better as a dress shirt with single cuffs. The chambray would have been better as a button down.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2013
  13. TiberiasUSA

    TiberiasUSA Senior member

    Messages:
    192
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2012
  14. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    Honestly, the cloth, when received, was rather rough which is why I haven't made it up since my purchase some time ago (I even thought Foo had chanced upon a new length of Godard that was smoother).

    I was extremely astonished given the amount I had paid for it but naturally, never thought to burn the cloth to test the composition, obviously believing I was sold an all cotton fabric because that's what was listed on the site. All's well and fine if I was told that the fabric had polyester in it before hand and still went ahead with the purchase since in this case, the consumer made an informed decision -- for some of us, drawing us to a notice that there is polyester content might dissuade the purchase (In my case, I'd definitely not have paid 80 euros (plus shipping) for a terribly rough fabric with polyester content in it).

    It's like saying that you think you're being sold a Rubinacci suit made out of 100% wool for 4000 euros because you're told so. When you're actually paying 4000 euros for a Wool and Polyester suit. It's a fair comment to make that some people might well be dissuaded from paying 4000 euros for a suit that is made out of a Wool-Polyester blend, Rubinacci or not.

    Torsten's present price is a fair one.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  15. Butler

    Butler Senior member

    Messages:
    813
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    Location:
    CPH
    



    I'd say that's pretty decent customer service on part of Torsten and Grunwald. :worship:
    :bigstar:
     
    3 people like this.
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    True that.
     
  17. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    Maybe I'm biased since EoE is 75% of what I wear but I think it's versatile enough to take a BD.

    Plain poplins look bad as BDs but the small amount of visual interest in an EoE allows for it to be ever so slightly more casual, though it works perfectly with a spread collar and French cuffs.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  18. mactire

    mactire Senior member

    Messages:
    367
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2011
    You speak as if a principle can be just cast aside! But seriously what has really annoyed these guys is the huge premium paid for the cloth compared to what goes into it. Polyester will increase heat and odour while reducing creases but more importantly it reduces cost in raw materials. Synthetics/blends are cheap because they are cheap if you twig my tautology. So SG are supplying an inauthentic product at grossly inflated prices, for what you were paying for it you can get worsted wools or super 140s/160s cotton shirtings etc. or even pay retail for Bonfanti or Riva.

    Fear not, there's always Bonfanti if you're so inclined, the looms are wooden http://www.bonfantitessuti.it/la_produzione_4.html
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    All the EoE I have is too thin and smooth. I remember I once had a BB BD in EoE and I always hated it. Took me a while to understand why.
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,795
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Are we seriously entertaining the notion that polyester is a legitimate material for nice shirting? Sorry, but that's just drowning in denial. How many of us could feel the difference between SG chambray and a two-buck-a-yard cotton-poly blend in a blind test? Do you really think there is a difference? Do you really believe that SG purposely uses polyester to achieve some sort of visual effect? I can't remember hearing something so absurd from someone so well-reputed in the industry.

    Come on, guys. Wake up. I fell for it too, but enough is enough. Draw the line. The truth is, this whole experience only proves how little anybody can tell about cloth and other materials by touch, feel, and appearance. That includes tailors and shirtmakers, believe it or not. We buy stuff like SG chambray on reputation, which is the only metric that can be relied on with any consistency, but then tell ourselves that our refined senses pickup on the intrinsic quality. Well, when I find out a loved cloth is part polyester, that destroys the maker's reputation, humbles me, and makes me doubt everyone who still sticks up for the stuff.

    Don't fool yourselves. In men's clothing, reputation is everything, and it always trumps what you think you feel between your fingers.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
    2 people like this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by