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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Interesting that you mention this.

    I was thinking the other day about how incredibly consistent Barba shirts are.

    I get their "black labeled" darted shirts and they all have great stitching. The patterns are cut extremely well too. Worst one I had was about a half inch off in the waist. Fit is usually very consistent. I have about 10x Barba's now
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, that's because they are all made in a factory, assembly line style. Also, if memory serves, there is relatively little hand stitching in Barba shirts. So, they really ought to be very consistent. In contrast, Borelli supposedly has little old women work on different parts of each shirt at home. A terrible model.
     
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Barba has hand stitching the shoulders and side. Old Borrelli was completely hand stitched?
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not completely, but more than that. Collar, back yoke, etc.
     
  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ Also, machine stitching doesn't always mean consistency. I've noticed that Brooks Brothers shirts can vary a lot. I've ordered multiples of the same shirt for that reason in the past. Returned whatever didn't fit.

    Barba has very good QC
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013
  6. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    Surely you can simply have a jeweller reduce the number of links in your chain cufflinks? In the same way that one would reduce the size of a watch bracelet.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    That was what I suggested somewhere in the thread. But that wld mean needing more than One(setof)Cufflinks. Though admittedly if there's only OneShirt then it shouldn't matter.
     
  8. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Only foreseeable problem is that the links have to be soldered close once cut because it might not be able to withstand stress during wear.
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Foo - I can't remember if I mentioned this before the first time this came up, but snap links may be a solution. I don't know how good the selection is out there, but if you could find somewhere that makes them well and with a decent assortment, this could be at least a partial solution. If you just want to see if they work or not, there are plenty of etsy and eBay shops where you can get a pair for cheap.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, all stuff to think about. I don't want to mod my existing cufflinks, as most were gifts from my wife and have sentimental value.

    My ideal would be new cufflinks with shorter chains. Snapbacks aren't as appealing to me.
     
  11. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    How does removing a couple of links from the chain alter the sentimental value of a cufflink?
    And also, since this is going to be a OneShirt, if you don't alter your existing cufflinks doesn't that mean you'll never wear them again? That's some way to a treat gifts from your wife. Unless you're reserving those for french cuff shirts that you'll continue to wear on occasion.
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Any jeweler can take links out of the chain.

    So, I wore my one chambray shirt yesterday. I don't know if it has poly or not. It's very rough though. There is no sign of pilling. Though I use a very good and gentle cleaner and all my shirts, even the oldest ones are still in very good shape.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My favorite cufflink is not chained normally. It has a large central link with hallmarks on it. That's honestly the only one I'm worried about. It was my wife's wedding gift to me and I wore it when we got married.

    Manton--which chambray are we talking about?
     
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's the point, I don't know which one. I have one made up that is fuzzy and thick, then I have two pieces not made up that are more like voile.
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hmm. Well, you can always burn it.

    Otherwise, see if you can recall whether the fuzzy stuff was whole width or half width. If half width, it is off of the old looms and may not have polyester. If whole width, it's prolly got poly.

    The non-fuzzy stuff that isn't voile should be like what I have. Did you read my account of what Eugene at Geneva and Stephen Kempson thought of the chambray I brought in? It's on this page or the one before. Eugene mentioned you had brought him something similar.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mine was half. I remember that because I thought I had enough for two and when I brought it in, turned out, whoops, there wasn't.
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wow, so you have bonafide old-loomed SG chambray.

    Can you cut it up and lend me a piece?
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It sounds to me from your description that what you have is more like a mid point between my fuzzy shirt and the voiles. The latter are very thin and sheer and even a little shiny.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In weight, probably. But voile is a different species of shirting, no? It's defined by an open weave and high-twist yarns. This stuff is plain-woven without any particular openness. The yarns are supposedly high-twist, though. Also, it has the defining feature of chambray: a white weft plus single-colored warp in a plain weave.

    So, I guess you could have a chambray voile--plain, open weave, with a white weft and single-colored warp. Or something. But that's not this.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  20. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    voile should be practically see through, which these are not. I dunno. I am not buring them, I can tell you that. Might even make them this year since it's all the rage for 2013.
     

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