Well, let's put this way: the "new" chambray is much more obviously a sub-species of end-on-end. If you put it next to a typical blue end-on-end, you'd have to inspect for more than a few moments to be sure which is which. In contrast, the "old" chambray appears to have come from a different planet. However, it is a form of end-on-end, just like every other chambray. That is, there is nothing special about the weave. It's about the yarns, which are much rougher and bigger in diameter than you'd normally see in nice shirting. The fuzziness and hairiness are due to individual fibers coming loose from the yarn structure. The color variegation also has to do with the nature of the yarns. They don't dye evenly, so you get a lot of different saturation levels, imparting the shirting as a whole with cloudy coloration. Understanding all this now, I can see why one would be unimpressed with the "old" chambray. Its character would easily be considered serious flaws in any other nice shirting. Big yarns with loose fibers that don't dye evenly? Dubious.