The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Well, let's put this way: the "new" chambray is much more obviously a sub-species of end-on-end. If you put it next to a typical blue end-on-end, you'd have to inspect for more than a few moments to be sure which is which. In contrast, the "old" chambray appears to have come from a different planet. However, it is a form of end-on-end, just like every other chambray. That is, there is nothing special about the weave. It's about the yarns, which are much rougher and bigger in diameter than you'd normally see in nice shirting. The fuzziness and hairiness are due to individual fibers coming loose from the yarn structure. The color variegation also has to do with the nature of the yarns. They don't dye evenly, so you get a lot of different saturation levels, imparting the shirting as a whole with cloudy coloration.

    Understanding all this now, I can see why one would be unimpressed with the "old" chambray. Its character would easily be considered serious flaws in any other nice shirting. Big yarns with loose fibers that don't dye evenly? Dubious.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  2. Ricini

    Ricini Active Member

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    For what little it's worth, when I brought a length of Will's peach chambray to my shirtmaker in 2011, the first thing the head cutter said to me was, "this has poly in it." I knew at the time that it was not the so-called old-loomed stuff because my shirtmaker stocks it in blue and the differences are pronounced, but I didn't press him to elaborate. Two years later I'm beginning to suspect that he was right. The shirt hardly wrinkles and has pilled quite a bit (in a manner consistent with Carl's comments about separation, I'm afraid) despite light wear. I still wear the shirt, but mostly because I like the shade of pink.
     


  3. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting. The pilling is certain effed up and can hardly be ascribed to "character." Yet, it seems common on the examples of the old-loomed chambray we've seen here. Now I'm even more curious about how SG makes their stuff, and how much they contract out. I mean, there is clearly far more variability here than previously thought.
     


  5. Ricini

    Ricini Active Member

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    Derek,

    That article, though a horror in every way(even for NYT), made me realize I've not seen a grown man with a gold chain around his neck in years. The thought made me so happy I set fire to my shirt.
     


  6. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    that old photo
    of my shirt
    is still making teh
    rounds.....


    it is not:
    fuzzy
    piling
    or polymix

    i got it 8 or 9 years ago
    from benjamin simmonet
    back when there were
    6-7 different hues
    of blue

    it is:
    single width
    slubby - which may be mistaken
    for pilling
    is a casual shirting
    durable

    bonfanti offers a
    version of chambray
    but is a finer weave
    likely similar to this
    'new' chambray fabric

    here is a new photo
    of that same shirt
    made with the
    'old chambray'
    along with a bengal stripe
    chambray from bonfanti:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    if it has a very crisp dry hand
    i have the same
    it is wonderful stuff
    acorn's cambridge
    is not in the same
    ballpark
     


  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I've been denied access into a few restaurants and bars in Moscow, precisely because I failed face control (or as Russians say it, feis kontrol). Once, it took some friends of mine inside the bar to explain to the owners and bouncer that I was not a laborer, I was just American.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks, T4. To further confuse, here is iammatt's Matuozzo shirt made from SG "old" chambray:

    [​IMG]

    Clearly, there is little consistency in what SG makes--which is not surprising given that shirting is not their main business and they are a small producer.

    The stuff I have has a very dry hand.
     


  9. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    kuro's shirting
    is not a chambray
    rather
    a high twist
    open weave cotton
    dress shirt fabric
    excellent stuff
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I was commenting on my own stuff. Very dry. More crisp than the "old" SG chambray.
     


  11. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I miss the innocent days when people would just make kites out of shirts. :(
     


  12. Ricini

    Ricini Active Member

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    Mine is very dry, too, Foo. At some point tomorrow I'm going to dig up the remaindered shirting of the peach Chambray and if see there is big difference in the pilling. That is to say, I am fairly certain that it is not slubbiness, but I'll check.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  13. Ricini

    Ricini Active Member

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    Here in Spain, you go around convincing others you are American if you want to get kicked out of a bar or restaurant.
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, you should be able to tell pretty easily. Slubbiness shouldn't result in little balls of fiber separating from the fabric.

    Pilling, not slubs, on Cantabrigian's SG chambray shirt:

    [​IMG]
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    In truth, aren't the English far worse than us?
     


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