The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    Yeah, they are definitely two different animals, and the old style is the one I had wanted. However, I've learned a lot about this stuff over the past few days. Some of what I've found out might be very surprising to people and change some minds. So, I'll be doing some tests this weekend. Let's see what happens.
     


  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    555
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    I prefer the old one, but why not have both? Perhaps the old for buttondowns and the new for wearing with suit and tie? I know that negates the purpose of the "one" shirt, but couldn't it be the "almost one" shirt?
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    1. I've already sunk too much into purchasing the new stuff.

    2. You'll see.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,991
    Likes Received:
    12,966
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Is the old chambray still available for purchase? I only have the new stuff.

    Carl posted a nice photo of some chambray he had, I think in the Unfunded Liabilities thread. It would be interesting to see all three swatches side by side. I remember his being quite nice (and really affordable, apparently).
     


  5. forex

    forex Senior member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Likes Received:
    154
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    

    Where do you get the fabric? Can you share the source? I prefer the old one.
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    I'm not aware of where you can get the "old" style chambray anymore. I've heard some say it is no longer made, while others say it is, but will not sell it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I am still failing too see what is so great about this SG chambray as compared to chambray or end on end from any of the other well known mills.
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    The "old" stuff is very unique looking for dress shirting. The color variegation is more like hazy fogging than the cross-hatching you get with non-chambray end-on-ends. Like denim. It doesn't sound like any of the serious, high-end mills make anything like it. Well, except for maybe Bonfanti, but I haven't seen any examples yet. Some would say there is good reason for this, and you can find similar stuff for much less money, as made for casual, sporty clothing and workwear. I'm beginning to believe they are right and there is no intrinsic magic to the stuff--it's just a common product being marketed in an uncommon context. One theory is that it is truly made for work uniforms in France. Sounds ridiculous given the pricing, but who said everyone pays the same price? Remember: France.

    The new stuff . . . well, the jury is out. It still looks different from typical end-on-end, but there is really nothing denim-like about it. The variegation is all linear and parallel. There is no "hair" to it. Yet, if you look at the old stuff, the "hair" probably isn't a good thing. It's fibers coming off the yarns. That doesn't speak well to its quality, and the uneven weaving is also questionable. The newer version seems much sounder.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,991
    Likes Received:
    12,966
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    FME, new new chambray is slubbier than end-on-end, and the color has more depth, but this is only true if you don't burn it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I remember seeing fabrics just like this with the "hair" and nap at a fabric trade show a few years ago from a mill in China. They called them "Brushed End on End". No idea what they were called, but their offerings were cheap as dirt if you bought over 3000 yards.
     


  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    This does appear to be true visually in pictures. Most end on end can feel just as slick as broadcloth. Chambray has more texture.
     


  12. Sonny58

    Sonny58 Senior member

    Messages:
    413
    Likes Received:
    96
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2009
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    I would like to learn about this burn testing of fabrics. Sounds like perhaps Foo is going to perform some of it this weekend? If he or anyone else does burn some SG chambray could you please video tape and post to Youtube for all of our benefit. It would make this thread awesome!
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I dare anyone to make a blunt out of S&G chambray
     


  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,991
    Likes Received:
    12,966
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    I have secret intelligence that tells me SWD plans to burn a chambray flag, in order to incite us to riot. We must stay strong.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,479
    Likes Received:
    8,847
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    I would, but I get randomly weft tested at work.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by