The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Does no placket imply no pocket, for you?

    No offense meant to jchosko, but I can't seem to get down with the french-front shirt with pocket. Of course, I kinda like plackets, so clearly I have unsophisticated tastes.
     


  2. hws

    hws Senior member

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    Mariano will no like you!

    Raison Matuozzo is famous is much year before she make work for Rubinacci! Rubinacci famous for to make costume for other Naples man (now much Japanese, American, also other) for to make pretense of British aristocrat, old money sensation!
     


  3. quar

    quar Senior member

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    I love this fabric. I have it in white also.

    It is not expensive. It runs about 45USD / shirt, when the fabric is bought directly from the Acorn website.
     


  4. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    Here's another nay for French plackets. Especially on chambray shirts. Shirting is nice, though.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think French plackets look cheap. Reminds me of the Express shirts or something.

    @quar, that is strange because my shirts end up crazy expensive with this fabric from my tailor. I will talk to him about it today.
     


  6. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    This is my gut reaction, but I'm beginning to wonder if this isn't so much "french plackets look inherently cheap" as it is "cheap shirts often have french plackets."

    Of course, my favorite option is the narrow-stitched English style placket.
     


  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, when I was at my tailor once he was wearing a shirt with a pattern from Acorn that I used to own back in the day when I wore colors and his had a French placket. I thought it made the shirt look cheap. It also just looks unfinished, which I guess is a derivative of cheap.
     


  8. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    No placket is a lot easier to make and requires less fabric, especially on patterned shirts.
     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's great, but it is still ugly.
     


  10. FLMountainMan

    FLMountainMan White Hispanic

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    Not exactly on point, but I live in Florida and wear a good amount of lightweight fabric. I always feel silly doubling up (which I usually do), but I find it necessary to protect the fabric from sweat and (especially) deodorant.
     


  11. JPHardy

    JPHardy Senior member

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    PB, I would have taken you for a french placket kind of guy with your dress shirts. Your style is pretty clean and austere.

    But you did throw me for a loop with the Burberry trench.
     


  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just looks unfinished to me.
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I just received a swatch of the "old" Simonnot Godard chambray in the mail. Here is old versus new, side-by-side:

    [​IMG]

    Not even remotely the same kind of shirting. For better or worse, the old-style is clearly much more irregular--both in the weaving and coloration. If you look carefully, the dye density in the blue yarns varies quite a bit. In contrast, the blue yarns in the new-style chambray appear to have taken the dye much more evenly.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  14. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    What kind of scale is that?
     


  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If I were only having one shirt made, I would take the old. If I were getting six made, I would take the new.
     


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