The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    I mean, how would you make a shirt where the pieces are 18" wide? I know there's a tradition of piecing sleeves to save fabric, but you'd have to piece the back with 18" wide fabric. Well, possibly a little guy like you wouldn't, but anybody else would.


    What I'm saying is that the "real" Chambray he sells from the supposed 18th century looms is 150 cm wide. I realize the kind you got might be different, but I've never heard anyone mention 1/2 meter widths before now. Not that I've followed the subject closely, but still. It sounds improbable.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I haven't seen it, actually. Sounds promising, but too late for me! I'm all sunk in.
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Oops. Half-width doesn't equate with a half meter. Half-width means roughly one meter.

    Thanks for catching the error--it's been fixed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  4. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    I don't disagree with you that the 150cm stuff comes from newer looms and the 36" from older (not 18th century, just older than the newer ones). That's my impression, but I really don't know where I got it from. Probably here.

    That being said, I think you're still wrong about the original "real" SG chambray. Will says it's 150cm.

    http://store.asuitablewardrobe.net/chambrayshirting.aspx

     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  5. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The SG chambray I got from Will has is the blue-white version. I haven't seen the blue-light blue version you speak of in your blog post. Mine also looks more textured than yours.

    I looked at Bonfanti recently but didn't see a blue chambray in stock.
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I have no idea what exact width WIll's stuff was. It seems he might have gotten in different sorts at different times. All I'm saying is that there exists a half-width, old-loomed chambray from Simonnot Godard that is distinct from this newer chambray. If the shirting you saw from Will was full-width, it is NOT the "original" old-loomed chambray.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The SG chambray I got from Will was full width. Was the 1/2 width SG you saw Rubinacci deadstock? Might not be available any more.
     
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  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Again, here are the three different shirtings from SG I am now aware of:

    1. Old-loomed chambray (half-width, blue warp + white weft)
    2. New-loomed chambray (full-width, blue warp + white weft)
    3. Voile (full-width, light blue warp and weft)

    The chambray you got from Will might be the first one listed. I never said they made a chambray with blue warp and blue weft--that would be impossible, as it would no longer be a chambray. Check the width of the shirting you have. Barring that, recall whether the selvedge was frayed and fuzzy like in my photos. If so, you have new-loomed chambray.

    Will calls number three "new chambray." That's a particularly confusing label, since it is not chambray, and there IS a new chambray.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Then your stuff was not woven on old looms. It is probably the same stuff as what I have--the photos might just make it look different. That, or SG has manufactured yet another species of new-loomed chambray . . . which I refuse to fathom.

    The half-width stuff is probably no more. When you look through chambray at Rubinacci, they now show you multiple swatches of various solid, blue shades. So they are clearly not exclusively using SG anymore.
     
  10. crinklecut

    crinklecut Senior member

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    I like this idea, but I'd take it further, towards its inevitable zenith/nadir - chambray footed onesie pajamas. You know it makes sense.
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I'm confused - so ASW only sells the 'new' chambray now? I have the old half-width stuff, and liked that quire a bit.
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Will is out of all chambray. He has voile, which he sometimes calls "new chambray." That is not the stuff I have, which is true chambray, though woven on newer looms and in full-width.

    It sounds like he has at times sold both the old-loomed chambray and the new-loomed chambray--rightfully calling both "chambray."
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  13. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Who's on first? In an odd way, this whole crowd-decoding of disorganized Old World maker products takes me back to the earlier days of SF when people were trying to figure things out, and everything wasn't as clearly laid out or #menswear as it is today. It's kind of exciting, in a clothing-nerd way.

    FWIW, here is a picture of my CCBDs done with what I believe is the original SG chambray, ordered when Will first offered it (which is after he offered the voile as the actual chambray). I've seen the old chambray on iammatt's AM shirt, and mine has the same variegation and the same spongey texture, which I don't see in Foo's picture:

    [​IMG]

    edit: the full-sized pic is here so you don't have to deal with SF's resizing which adds artifacts that obscure the texture: http://cdn.styleforum.net/3/38/38a233a3_3shirts.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Here:

    SG Voile (Will's "new chambray")
    [​IMG]

    SG Old-loomed Chambray
    [​IMG]

    SG New-loomed Chambray (real "new chambray")
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  15. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Another possibility is that it gets the "old" look after a few washes.
     

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