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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    yes, and more tie space too
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, true. I usually don't like tie space, but it is necessary and good on a BD.
     


  3. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Foo, I posted this in the Luxire thread after you asked there about their BD collars, but here it is in case you missed it.

    Poofed:
    [​IMG]

    And not so poofed:
    [​IMG]
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    That's looking pretty good! I don't understand what you did to make one different from the other though.
     


  5. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    ^ Looking at the left side in the top pic, the collar curves outward instead of inward in, creating that asynchronous look that was applauded in some old BD illustrations recently.
     


  6. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    ^Thanks. I took my jacket off to snap a quick pic. But after looking at it, I noticed the collar was kind of pressed down from the jacket. So I took a second pic after pulling up the right collar a bit. The second pic above is the first one I took.

    I probably could have shaped it to made it look really nice, but these are pretty spontaneous shots that show the sought-after bell shape. It's a delight to wear. I've also been getting the cuffs unlined. Love the softness.

    Edit: oops that was to Foo. Interesting about the asymmetry though, K.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2013


  7. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Senior member

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    Really?

    My P Johnson BD has more tie space and a wider spread, but for some strange reason, I prefer this one.

    May post a pic sometime.
     


  8. ctp120

    ctp120 Senior member

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    Not the best pic, since the collar point is caught on my lapel, but I like this BD collar shape from Barba.

    [​IMG]
     


  9. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    My own experience is that the "roll" depends mostly on where the buttons are located. That, or if you don't like the way your collar looks, tilt your head a little.

    Also, notwithstanding the many claims to the contrary, that look seems to come more naturally with an interfaced collar rather than an unlined one.

    Maybe this has all already been covered--the thread is much too long.
     


  10. Flake

    Flake Senior member

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    You thinking of getting your single cuffs curved, Foo? It provides a more finished look, IMO

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The iPhone lens exaggerates the curve and cuff size just a bit. The drop is only 1.5 cm
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2013


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I wanted them to have rounded corners--I wasn't quite envisioning what you're showing.
     


  12. Flake

    Flake Senior member

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    In person, it's not as dramatic as the pics would suggest. And, were I to do it again, I would flatten the apex and decrease the drop to about 1.0 cm. I find the gentle curve a more elegant finish than the more usual rounded corners.
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's interesting, but you are still leaving a sharp corner behind. The main reason I wound to round off the cuff is to save on wear-and-tear.
     


  14. Flake

    Flake Senior member

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    True. I wonder how it would look overall with a more rounded finish? I may check with my shirt maker and see how good he is with more complex curves...
     


  15. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    I don't like tie space on any collar, including BD's. Is a BD with little to no tie space "wrong."
     


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