The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. bertie

    bertie Senior member

    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Location:
    North of
    

    No - it's what they use when they do not have a pope
     


  2. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,104
    Likes Received:
    765
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    I thought polyester melts rather than burns? :confused:
     


  3. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

    Messages:
    3,992
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2007
    

    That would have to be a big table for everyone to sit at a safe distance from Salvatore...

    / that's not far enough
    // there's no safe distance
    /// wait, where's my wallet?
    //// my pants too? really, who steals pants?
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,758
    Likes Received:
    3,399
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    

    you just can't keep quiet, can you?
     


  5. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

    Messages:
    3,992
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2007
    

    Another Internet Tough Guy...
     


  6. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,597
    Likes Received:
    380
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    

    I believe it melts as well as gives off black smoke, like burning plastic.


    FTFY.
     


  7. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,758
    Likes Received:
    3,399
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    


    I'm a lover not a fighter


    thats what it did but I know nothing of fabrics. Someone else was present, maybe they can give their opinion.
     


  8. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,104
    Likes Received:
    765
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    



    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     


  9. bertie

    bertie Senior member

    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Location:
    North of
    

    I voted for the Canadian. God help me.
     


  10. bertie

    bertie Senior member

    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Location:
    North of
    Is the consensus that one shirt is DOA?
     


  11. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,345
    Likes Received:
    1,826
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2012
    Foo --

    For what it's worth, I kinda dig the single cuffs on clapeyron's shirts. The point about spread collar is good -- the idea of OneDressShirt and OneCasualShirt (the OCBDs) makes a lot of sense to me. In fact, heck, the only reason to object to that would be if you were genuinely going to make them the only shirts you owned -- and that's not the case.

    I have no familiarity with the SG fabric, but I do think an spread collar end-on-end in the same color as BB blue oxford (that very, very pale blue) would be pretty great for the first few layers of a (non-BD) shirt pyramid. I'd seriously think about going for double cuffs with that (you could do single, but I like the slight heft of a double cuff), but in my case it would probably be worn slightly less often than an OCBD would.
     


  12. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

    Messages:
    1,920
    Likes Received:
    258
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2011
    Foo, I wondered before which weave gave the fabric of the shirt in the following picture of Spoo it's depth.
    Is it end-on-end or chambray? If it is the later, I can definitely understand, why you are going for it, I think it is very subtle, still way more appealing than a poplin.
    [​IMG]
     


  13. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,371
    Likes Received:
    321
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    maybe there is confusion as to what is a chambray vs. end on end
    and dress shirt chambray vs work shirt chambray.

    i posted photos of this somewhere before. I will look to find the photos and post again.

    in general end on end has a white warp...(the long yarns)
    and usually alternating white and colored yarns (the width of the fabric.
    classic end on end can be made in 50's single yarns,
    I prefer either 100/2 or 120/2. I have two shirts in 120/2 from ferno.
    i have worn them at least 30 times each without signs of wear at the collar tips.
    construction is also important. a zephyer weight has fewer yarns then a standard or compact construction.
    the lighter weight constructions will also show wear faster then standard constructions

    140/2-200/2 end on ends feel great but will show wear much faster.
    I had to replace collars and cuffs for a customer after a year on a shirt made from 200/2.

    Chambray has a colored warp and white weft.

    work shirt chambray is usually made from 20/1 or 30/1 size yarn.
    these are large and rough usually made from lower grade cotton.

    Dress shirt chambray
    for years i used a Japanese chambray that is a 60'/1 i have a darker blue piece in my shop.
    The chambray weave was famous as a voile/batiste weave.
    I believe Zendlene may also have a colored warp.
    I have never seen the SG dress shirt voile/chambray. I can not comment on quality.
    so a dress chambray weave can be made in any sort of high end construction.
    the look is achieved by the colored warp.

    I hope this is helpful.

    ed, you know I can't keep my mouth shut!!! hence the reason I am 25 pounds overweight....

    the fabric does not bubble.... it just doesn't burn as cleanly as i expected.

    foo the only wear issue you will have is on the square link cuff. the tips will rub against your desk as you type. so you will see wear marks faster then if you used
    a round convertible cuff.

    [​IMG]
    top fabric SG work shirt chambray
    middle fabric japanese 60/1 chambray
    bottom fabric light blue end on end 100/2
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013


  14. JPHardy

    JPHardy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,222
    Likes Received:
    461
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2008
    




    “Well, I went to CEGO up to get me a shirt and then I thought somebody was barbecuing. I said, ‘Oh Lord Jesus, it’s a fire.’ Then I turned around and Carl was burning SG chambray , Jesus. I ran for my life and then the polyethylene terephthalate smoke got me, I got bronchitis! Ain’t nobody got time for that.”
     


  15. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

    Messages:
    1,160
    Likes Received:
    377
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    Br
    brilliant!
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by