The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. bertie

    bertie Senior member

    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Location:
    North of
    

    It is very common to mistake the certainty of one's position with its correctness. Saying it louder does not change that. A little humility and tolerance should also not be mistaken for weakness or lack of confidence.

    "A man's character may be learned from the adjectives which he habitually uses in conversation."
    ( Mark Twain)
     


  2. bertie

    bertie Senior member

    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Location:
    North of
    

    It's hard not to conclude the Duke was a dandy through and through. As you say, he defied conventions but was praised because of his position and reputation. Other icons of dress were only judged to be so after the fact. Some of them are respected for their conservatism and others, as I have previously noted, because of their body of work. I would also agree that some had a consistent style over many decades and it is by this overall record of dress that they are judged today. None of those icons had a Tom Ford uniformity of dress - the same white dress shirt and black suit in every photo-op. Tom is never badly dressed (except for collar gap) but he will not become iconic until he shows more ability to dress for the situation.

    What I struggle with is the link back to picking a single, standard item of dress and declaring that wearing it all the time yields a great result. The best I can get to is agreeing that wearing a blue shirt in most CM circumstances will decrease the probability ot a bad result (all other things being equal). The logical extension of this argument is that the safest pants are mid-grey flannels and the safest jacket is a navy blazer and the safest tie is black grenadine. No further thought is required.

    Plus - cufflinks with odd jackets just never look right. The result is incoherence.
     


  3. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,365
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    I am a little late to the party.
    but instead of the rough un businesslike SG chambray go with a mid blue end on end.
    just the other day I took a match to the scrap of SG chambray in my office.
    someone said something earlier about it wrinkling less.
    white smoke vs black smoke
    I will be happy to do the test in front of anyone interested.


    Blue end on end looks good as both a button down or spread collar.
    tweed and worsted wool
    use a nice 100/2 or 120/2 from any number of better mills.
    you will have a shirt that will wear well for years

    the brushed wendler lining or fusible will give you a nice soft collar with some body
    this will support the roll.

    and i never said anything about sleeve placket buttons except.
    if you don't remember to button them, Just leave them off
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  4. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,267
    Likes Received:
    2,252
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    I think there's a difference between a partial uniform / foundational part of one's wardrobe and wearing the same exact outfit everyday. As I understand the OneShirt, the idea is to minimize the amount of thought that goes into dressing for the day and to simplify one's wardrobe. When you have a number of nice tweed odd jackets and suits as well as a variety of ties, keeping one thing constant could work pretty well and still let one achieve a variety of different looks. I agree that if you do the reductio ad absurdum, it looks a bit crazier.

    I could never do a OneShirt personally, but could do seasonal OneTrousers.
     


  5. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

    Messages:
    2,139
    Likes Received:
    159
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    ^Im there on the odd trouser. Any time I'm not wearing my gray flannel, I feel like I would look better if I were.
     


  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    

    Do you not have a summer?

    Also, tan trou are great.
     


  7. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

    Messages:
    2,139
    Likes Received:
    159
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    
    Sorry, I was saying that in the context of seasonality. I absolutely don't wear them in spring and summer (except for today)
     


  8. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    119
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Oxon, UK
    I rather dig Shirtmaven's contribution. Quality in shirting doesn't just refer to super number. I shy away from anything above 100s. I can't afford non-Tyrwhitt shirts that won't last me more than a year, so I go for robust rather than high-end luxury. To each his own, of course, but I wouldn't commute in a Ferrari either.
     


  9. bertie

    bertie Senior member

    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Location:
    North of
    

    Even if you ignore style (which I have argued is where the one-shirt leads you) - that is the best argument against the "one" anything - simple recognition of weather (unless you live on the equator - then we're back to style).
     


  10. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

    Messages:
    3,992
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2007
    

    Matt-

    I'd recommend Carl, as I know he can take care of your need for collar shape (he's produced two outstanding shapes for SFers I know, and I'm sure he'd love to have a 'Foo' collar and cuff), for fabric (I think Grande & Rubinelli oxford cloth in all patterns, esp. bengal, should answer your call) and for ease in the process (he really is concerned that his customers are happy). Geneva's going to be a PITA, Mercer's in vox country, and Naples is too far and too expensive. Head down to 28th st some evening and get it done right.

    -J
     


  11. Sonny58

    Sonny58 Senior member

    Messages:
    413
    Likes Received:
    96
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2009
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    

    I believe it was in the whnay.'s good taste thread that :foo: said it should only take five minutes to get dressed in the morning. And in this thread he seems to want to distill his wardrobe to a point where that would be possible; to obtain his optimal look every day. For me getting dressed is fun and I enjoy the thought process behind my daily decisions. A little variability helps to keep things interesting. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to be thought of as a standard of style, but I enjoy getting dressed every day. Some days may be less optimal than others but it is fun to hit home runs sometimes. The odd thing to me is that :foo: seems like the type of fellow who would also enjoy spending time thinking about his daily choices. In fact, some of the 'fits he's posted on SF have been quite complex, mixing patterns to a point I could not really appreciate. So deciding on OneShoe, OneShirt or OneGreenWallet all seems a bit contrary to his sartorial enthusiasm. But he seems to have a proclivity for analyzing things to an extreme (and an ability to argue a point ad infinitum) so I suspect he has set upon an unalterable path.

    That said, I can see a lot of merit to :foo: s' desires to keep it simple and am probably changing my views on the types of clothing I should persue. :satisfied:
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  12. bertie

    bertie Senior member

    Messages:
    808
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2009
    Location:
    North of
    

    I can say that Mafoofan has convinced me that I need more shirts with burgundy stripes/patterns (and I have extended to ties). It seems a very versatile colour for use with blue/grey/brown suits/jackets. A burgundy tie seems very nice with a blue shirt.
     


  13. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,595
    Likes Received:
    380
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    

    Wait what? Are you saying that the SG chambray has polyester in it?
     


  14. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

    Messages:
    3,992
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2007
    

    Not sure that he's saying that, but I do know that he liked it so much he made a curtain for his changing room from it.
     


  15. Big A

    Big A Senior member

    Messages:
    2,112
    Likes Received:
    258
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2008
    Location:
    At your house, when you're not there
    

    Does anyone else picture a bunch of Naples tailors (Ambrosi, Matuozzo, Mina) sitting at a little cafe table on a dirty Naples street, smoking cigarettes, cursing foo's name, and occasionally spitting? Or is it just me?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by