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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    what is on the roll looks different then what i have been given in the past.
    it also could be the color of the photo on my monitor
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It could very well be the coloring on screen. Otherwise, how does it look different to you?
     
  3. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    That picture looks like mine too, down to the little stray bits of thread, variegation, and fuzz.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The color saturation looks off but the texture is correct.
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    We'll see what the shirting looks like when I get it, but I'm thinking that it is not quite so vivid as in the photo.
     
  6. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Nearly 4 years old thread on SG chambray (w/ pics) is here.

    More here.

    As for the OneShirt, here's what I would do:

    Light blue SG chambray (would have to see it i person first) or what ever not too luxe end-on-end that had the right feel/colour

    Medium spread collar, as it more often looks better than a BD with coat and tie (disclamer: not an americun) but no fancy double button collar like I believe you got on your BB BDs. IIRC the collar on your AMs looked nice, so probably just copy those.

    Rounded barrel cuffs. As it sounds like you're not yet ready for the superior, understated simplicity of these I'm sure you'll go ahead with your single or double cuffs. But luckily these shirts wont last forever, so maybe you'll have seen the light on the next time around :D

    Gauntlet button? Definitely, as shirts look cheap without them. And you don't have to use it. Very much a case of 'it's better to have and not need, than to need and not have'. If you *never* will wear these shirts without a coat I guess it really doesn't matter, but if you want to be able to comfortably roll up your sleeves (and not have a big gaping gauntlet when you don't), they have their place.

    Placket or not? Doesn't matter much as it'll be covered by the tie, but for this kind of shirt I guess I too would go wíthout.

    Agree on no pleats, but would try to see if I could get a satisfactory fit without darts.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think just the opposite of gauntlet buttons. They are on every single RTW French cuff shirt I've ever seen. The only way to go without seems to be bespoke, with gauntlets short enough they won't gape open. I like the more focused, simple approach. I think it adds up to being more elegant.
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Here are Vox's SG chambray fabric "popover" shirts. Nice looking fabric

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013
  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I laughed hard.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm hoping the actual chambray I get is closer to that cloudy, greyish blue than the more saturated blue in the photo I posted. We'll see.
     
  11. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    The only shirt of mine I can recall without a gauntlet button is a bespoke one, and I remember feeling that something was missing, so I got 'em on the following orders. Having short gauntlets will just make it really hard to roll up your sleeves past the elbow (as you should, if you've started rolling), if either the sleeves are fairly trim or if you have anything besides the slimmest of arms. I have RTW shirts *with* gauntlet buttons that are hard to roll, unbuttoned.

    Also, leaving the buttons open are a good deal less sprezzaturally conspicious than doing the same with the buttons on a BD collar ;-)


    This was the pic I was googling for that lead me to the two threads linked above. I remember when seeing Mina that she mentioned this one guy from the US that had asked if she could do a specific type of shirts and had then presented her with a stack of cloth for the purpose :)
     
  12. Kei-bon

    Kei-bon Senior member

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    :eh: is there a rationale for this bold statement? i've always used a "two and two thirds" roll: fold the whole cuff back, fold it again, and then once more, but not the whole width of the cuff, bringing it to just below the elbow. I don't think i want to go flashing my tired looking elbows--or looking at anyone else's ...

    Anyway, I'm in the pro-gauntlet-button camp. I've never found them irritating in any way, and i pray i won't start to find them so after reading this thread.
     
  13. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    I don't really roll up my dress shirt sleeves anyway, so I don't care about gauntlet length. I do roll casual shirts, but then I don't care about a gauntlet button on those, or rather, I don't care about exposing what the gauntlet button covers up.
     
  14. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Not to be taken too seriously, just an opinion



    [​IMG]

    ;-)
     
  15. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    When a member posts another members pics, that just seems wrong for a variety of reasons. Just sayin'
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How often do you roll-up your French cuffed sleeves? It seems like an odd consideration. Anyway, I am able to roll mine up above my elbow, with short, no-button gauntlets. No matter how long the gauntlet, it will not go that high--so, the key is how the sleeves are cut.


    Exactly. :)
     
  17. AbeFroeman

    AbeFroeman Well-Known Member

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    Does this FooRule hold with Shephard's check ties and other formalities?


    Also, bloggers intimate that the single cuff is a bit of italian style: http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2007/12/poor-single-cuff.html#.UU8SJaWMXww
     
  18. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    I never wear french cuffs, don't like 'em which is why i suggested going with barrel cuffs above. I know it's very situational how appropriate/expected french cuffs are, but for the most part they strike me as being too fussy so I prefer the simplicity of a buttoned cuff.

    As for being able to roll shirt sleeves, I'd rather have the option and not use it than the other way around. Plus I like the look of a gauntlet button. Of course, if you either don't roll your sleeves or if you can do so comfortably with a shorter gauntlet, it sounds like you'll be fine without gauntlet buttons.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes. The way to navigate a situation where you are only wearing two patterns is to mitigate against them looking paired. We all know to avoid making them the same color, and most of us know to avoid the same pattern type, but what matters just as much is the density of the pattern. If you can successfully differentiate the two patterns along all three of those measures, it will look fine. It's just much harder to do because there are more variables that must be more carefully controlled for.


    That sounds like an Englishman's fantasy of what Italians do. Italians generally don't wear linked cuffs at all. When they do, it seems they wear double cuffs, like the rest of us. Maybe this was different before, but can't remember seeing any single cuffs on my last few trips to Italy. If there is an Italian around (Radicaldog?), I bet he could clear this up.
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This raises an interesting point I've wanted to touch on: the fussiness of French versus barrel cuffs. I see how the addition of a cufflink can be seen as an unnecessary embellishment, thus making French cuffs fussier than they would be without them. However, I'm not sure that, as a whole, French cuffs are more fussy. Barrel cuffs necessarily fit much closer to the wrist (or they should when they are fit properly). French cuffs are looser. So, to me, they appear more relaxed and at ease.

    So, I think French cuffs are seen as fussy due to their implied formality, not anything intrinsic about their aesthetics.


    Again, I just don't see how a longer gauntlet helps you roll your sleeve up. If the goal is to get the sleeve rolled up above the elbow, no gauntlet will be long enough to accommodate. The shape and fit of the sleeve are what will make that possible.
     

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