The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    foo is the new me
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The cut of the shirts is phenomenal and borders on art. However, the quality of workmanship and level of product declined rapidly after my first order. I will not use them again unless they want to go way out of their way to fix the situation, which I'm sure they will not.
     


  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Perhaps I missed it earlier in the thread, but what is the source of your recent discontent with AM?

    Btw, you seem to still love Rubi - why not just get shirts from him?
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Does that mean I will start growing taller?
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    See above for what happened with Matuozzo. They downgraded my shirts while charging me the same, higher price. Then they went AWOL on me.

    Rubinacci has never done me wrong and has, in fact, bent over backwards to keep me happy. I don't buy their shirts because they don't have enough handwork to justify the expense in my book. I'd rather spend significantly less money on a local shirtmaker who has already got my pattern right and works with great fabric.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    It means you are now Horatius at the Bridge, defending sartorial rationality alone against the Etruscans. While I am sunning myself by the Tiber.
     


  7. Mute

    Mute Senior member

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    The latter is a result of ignorance as much as it is poor taste, if not more so. The only true instruction from that is, one should gain some knowledge to assist in their experimentation, not your conclusion which, let's just say it, is boring. If one were of the opinion that white was the go to (no, that's not my conclusion), would you still call it bold?
     


  8. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    Hi Foo, if you want I can take and upload some pictures of my 'Oneshirt' design.

    While I don't limit myself to just one fabric, I pretty much stuck with one design with all my shirts after developing my so called 'Über-Hemd'.

    1. Semi spread, tall collar with long points.
    2. Relaxed, comfortable fit (I'm wearing a jacket most of the time anyways)
    3. Narrow placket
    4. Back darts (not really necessary since it's bespoke anyway, but I like how they accentuate my otherwise shapeless body)
    4.b Double back pleats on heavier fabric (e.g. oxford, royal oxford, linen)
    5. Right now I still have gauntlet buttons with all my shirts, but you made me think and I'm considering now to pass on them in the future. I have rather long lower arms so I will see how that will affect the fit.
    6. Cuffs and collar without fusing.
    7. convertible barrel/single french cuff with cut corners on my dressier fabrics, and convertible barrel round cut cuffs on my casual shirts.

    I'm not sure whether the way I solved my cuff dilemma will amaze or disgust you but I hope it will at the very least amuse you.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  9. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Blue is safe. That's only pejorative if you think being bold is a virtue, and such boldness is only a virtue if it exceeds what can be done safely - which it can, but that is not what you are aiming at. Safety in this context is the highest application of the 'rules' of style. You really don't need to prove yourself beyond this, although you seem to feel the need to demonstrate it and at the same time to condemn 'boldness' with unequivocally pejorative terms like 'weak self-confidence'. You don't need to do that. You don't need to make implications of the character of others who might make different choices than you. Indeed, I would argue that true self-confidence comes from never feeling the need to belittle another person (even a notional 'other') in order to justify what you do. So just get your shirts. Wear them with confidence. Be safe, be coherent and be an example.
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    What is the purpose of experimentation if not to find an answer? I'd say nothing. What is the value of experimentation for experimentation's sake alone? I'd say zero. Name a man of great style. Whoever you can come up with, he will be a man who found answers and then expressed them. He will not be one who ceaselessly experimented. If he had, he'd have no recognizable style to begin with.

    I'm glad my shirt choices are boring to you. They should be. No man is stylish on account of exciting or shocking choices. Such choices are so remarkably easy to make that the vast majority of this forum engages in the practice. Well, the results speak for themselves. Style is achieved by making good, considered choices and executing them well. I want to be stylish, not receive comments on the shirt I'm wearing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's pejorative in his usage, as he considers it a negative. I have no problem with "safe" myself and would never hold it against someone else. The only thing that matters is whether something is "good," and that is a separate question.


    Ah, but you must consider character when it comes to style. The latter derives from the former. We don't discuss it enough, actually. Instead, we focus on what to kop. To save hurt feelings we converge on idiocy.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    What? Then Rome is totally fucked.
     


  13. emsf

    emsf Active Member

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    Really, tell us more...
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  14. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    Your don't have to pursuade me that you are absolutely, 100% confident in your position: that is self-evident from your rhetoric. Nor do you have to pursuade me that you are well qualified to take up the mantle of defender of sartoriale excellence. I have no doubt you possess the taste, education, talent and discipline, etc. to both make such important sartorial decisions as well explain them to others.

    I am merely questioning your position on uniformity as boldness. A bold strategy is something unexpected. Wearing the same thing is kind of the opposite of unexpected.

    The greats sometimes had their own uniform but they are generally revered for their legacy of clothing choices and because they are widely seen to be able to dress for the occasion. Grant was known for his grey on grey suit/tie but any google search returns a rich variety of dress. Astaire is known for black tie and flannel suits but preferred odd jackets. Other than his watch and maybe knit ties as uniform, Agnelli was tidy and conservative.

    Your uniform sounds more Tom Ford/Armani in its sameness.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Boldness has got nothing to do with being unexpected. It has to do with strength and conviction. To the extent it doesn't, it's not what I mean by "bold."

    Anyway, a plain blue shirt is like bread before dinner (or rice with dinner, if you come from one of the world's more ancient and enlightened cultures). It is simply the right thing to do and says nothing about whether one is well-dressed or stylish. Le Bernardin serves bread before dinner. Does that make it sound like TGIF or Olive Garden to you?
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013


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