The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    Mafoo, I've Costanza'd a double cuff shirt or two with my 37" sleeve length. What I mean by that is I put cufflinks thru one layer of cuff rather than 2. The second holes were covered by my coat but halfway up my arm. Can you see it? OK. The links didn't sit right and the cuff didn't hold my arm as well. I know a couple of those issues can be remedied by going bespoke/custom but links were meant to go thru a certain thickness of sleeve cuff, no?
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's not like I've never worn single cuffs before, and the ones I have are made by the shirtmaker I'm going to use for these new shirts.

    The French cuffs on my Matuozzo shirts are only very lightly lined. The combined thickness of the folded over cuff is barely greater than the single cuff on my dinner shirt. Yes, the pique adds some thickness in the latter case, but it's mostly the interlining. So long as the interlining is sturdy enough, I really don't have any worries about how the cuff will work with chained links.

    Moreover, I do think a lot of this has to do with whether your shirt is cut well for you. It could be that your RTW cuffs are simply too wide in diameter, allowing too much give.
     


  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Cufflinks with a chain between them can be shortened and lengthened so they fit the shirt cuff better. I had mine re-sized without much hassle. Ideally, one should try on the cufflinks to ensure they're a good fit for the shirt.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Uggh. Can we stop discussing the difficulty of getting cufflinks to work with single cuffs? This has not been and is not an issue for me.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013


  5. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    if you didn't want people to discuss that, why did you make this thread? maybe you should have set down your ground rules a little better.
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    That's the one thing you picked up on to discuss? Whether single linked cuffs work with cuff links, as if no man has ever worn them before? This is surreal.
     


  7. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Would you rather we go back to gauntlet buttons? On the other hand, we have yet to really discuss the demerits of front plackets (since obviously, they have no merits).
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013


  8. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    what's surreal is that this entire thread is about your personal quirks, and then you get mad when people don't have the same obscure, nit-picking, ultra particular point of interest you have.

    i mean, this whole getup sounds goofy to me. like.. i totally understand the appeal of just having 15 or however many of the same shirt, but you're picking such strange, ultra specific details that it almost seems as if you're picking them to have a unique shirt.

    but still, that's your prerogative. just like it's everyone else's prerogative to discuss the merits of single cuff shirts and cufflinks.
     


  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's just odd that this thread has inspired people to question whether linked cuffs can be worn with cufflinks, whether certain shirting is actually fragile when I'm watching it disintegrate before my very eyes, and whether French cuffs can be engineered without gauntlet buttons when half the population of Styleforum has French cuffs without gauntlet buttons.
     


  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  11. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    you don't think your atypical experience with riva shirting is worthy of note? also, it blows my mind that you aren't fuming about paying however much a shirt and having the shirts fall apart a year later. you really have a masochistic streak when it comes to tailoring.
     


  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    What would you have him do? Write all over SF about how flimsy Riva shirting is? Oh wait, he's already doing that...
     


  13. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I thought the consensus was no placket was the way to go. I find ironing the placket quite a hassle (not that I actually iron my shirts myself these days but if I did, I would).
     


  14. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When Dege made my shirts, some had plackets and some didn't. I could never figure out quite what the system was, though I am sure it wasn't random. One constant was that linen shirts had covered plackets - for no reason I know. I am sure I generally prefer front plackets though I don't care to think about the issue too much.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013


  15. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Always thought that shirts with plackets are less dressy in comparison with shirts that sport a plain front -- with OBCDs at one end of the continuum and full dress shirts for white-tie at the other as an example. The one time I wasn't asked and didn't specify, the shirts in bolder, and decidedly more casual fabrics came with plackets, and the rest, without.

    It's said that a placket has a reinforcing effect since there's stress about the front (no doubt after a good meal), the way gussets are said to aid in preserving the longevity of the shirt at about the hems. No idea if it's true.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013


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