The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    It's lighter. A very minor, incremental benefit? Sure. But that is the case with so many things.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    sounds rather princess and the peaish but if it works for you
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    It really is, but I'm cool with that.
     
  4. NORE

    NORE Senior member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    I, too have a Oneshirt[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]. You know the brand and I will state that the line is Regent, which specifies the collar. I love a stiff yet comfortable collar and these come with contrast collars or self collars. Self double or single cuffs. They are available in classic or custom configurations with the latter being slimmer. Observe one of my faves:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The beauty is I spend on average $40 per shirt which is great since I consider dress shirts disposable. I have had some last ~10 years with continuous use.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    What's a "self double or single cuff?"

    Also, those collar points are too short.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  6. NORE

    NORE Senior member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    

    Meaning the cuffs aren't white in the case of a contrast collar. That pic with the cardigan is deceiving. The others all have the exact same collar and they routinely fall below my lapels which is a personal peeve.

    Do you like a stiff collar or relaxed?
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    I like my collars as soft and light as possible.
     
  8. NORE

    NORE Senior member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Not none. I just like it light and soft.
     
  10. NORE

    NORE Senior member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Likes Received:
    297
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    I find it difficult to deal with a soft collar. I like mine stiff and standing up straight. The soft ones tend to roll as the day wears on.
     
  11. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,594
    Likes Received:
    379
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    
    I haven't found that the grip of the cuff helps with sleeve drape (ie. sleeves disappearing up the coat's sleeves). The height of the shirt's armhole relative to the coat along with the fit of the shirt seem to affect it more. Even wearing a thick-ass watch like an IWC 3706 (yes, it's not thick compared to the monstrosities in vogue these days) without an adjustment to the cuff diameter doesn't affect it too much unless the cuff gets caught up on the watch itself.
    This looks like the first "chambray" that Will sold, that turned out to be voile. I like that SG voile, too. The actual chambray seems like it's halfway to denim, by comparison.
    I must just not get the appeal of casual single cuffs, and these pictures show exactly why. They look like someone's home craft project, especially with the button cuff links. Single-cuffs only look right to me in the context of formalwear: stiff interlining, white cloth, metallic links. To paraphrase our resident (young) architect, the design of the cuff is inauthentic to the material used --- it's trying to pretend to be something it's not.
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    I don't mean that a barrel cuff will cause the sleeve to ride up your arm. As you point out, other factors such as armhole height matter more in that regard. However, a well-fit barrel cuff tends to exert upward tension on the sleeve, since it must grip your wrist laterally rather than sit on your hand. Consequently, the sleeve fabric tends not to fall as freely to the cuff. That's what I mean by drape in this context.


    I'm not sure I understand why a single cuff in a non-formal context would be inauthentic to the material used. If you want a stiffer, cleaner look, it is a matter of choosing a heavier, thicker interlining, not the type of shirting. The above examples are all convertible cuffs, so they don't reflect the ideal form for a single cuff. On the matter of links: I'm confused as to how that influences your judgment of single cuffs. You can pick the sort you like, metallic or not.
     
  13. hws

    hws Senior member

    Messages:
    930
    Likes Received:
    89
    Joined:
    May 21, 2009
    Take voile! No chambray!

    For cuff you must to take elegant style of single button! No take single cuffs for boutons de manchette!

    Riva make 170/2 chaîne and trame for 100% cotton, for mix cotton-linen Riva make 170/2 cotton chaîne with single fibre linen trame!


    :slayer:
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,797
    Likes Received:
    2,028
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Salvatore?
     
  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I think hws isw actually an edmorel sock
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by