Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, Dec 23, 2012.
Ticket pockets make everything better - especially tweed! 40 R
I found this the other day. Imagine if campuses still sold shit like this to their students.
Not suuuuuuuuuuper old, but definitely vintage, and deserving of a mention I think.
Oldest Wilson label I've seen, made in the USA, with removable fur collar.
Vintage 70's Class 5 "Down Sweater", made in Berkley,CA
And I'm not sure I posted this one or not. 60's or 70's beaver fur collar DB
Yeah, yeah, yeah....I know the lapels on this are huge...epic even, but the other details are just crazy.
Vintage Kilgour French & Stanbury Cashmere/Wool Tweed Suit
3 Roll 2 Jacket
Hidden Working Surgeon Cuffs
Hand Finished Lapel Notches and Button Holes
Side Tab trousers
Stowable Throat Latch
Buttoned Center Vent
Amazing...1970s but could be almost 1940s bold look...or exaggerated 30s and even a bit 20s the way it is shaped at the bottom.
The following was cited from The U.S. Army Quartermaster's Review May-June 1945,
"Data compiled for millions of inductees shows the following to be the actual measurements of the "average" newcomer to the Army as he appears at the clothing counter of a reception centre: 5' 8" tall; 144 pounds in weight; 33 ¼" chest measurement; 31" waist measurement. From the tariff tables showing the frequency of size issues it is found that the sizes most frequently issued are a 7 to 7½ hat, number 9 gloves, a 15 shirt with a 33" sleeve, a 36 regular jacket, a pair of trousers with a 32" waist and a 32" leg length, size 11 socks, and size 9-D shoes. These figures may be taken to indicate the size of the "average American young man."
Crazy - that brand is usually diffusion garbage made in China or Yugoslavia. Looks like there's a decent amount of handwork too! Unfortunately, the lapels ruin it for me, they're beyond wide to the point where they're just distracting. Someone else will dig it, though.
In the US, for sure - the result of an ill-judged licensing agreement. But they originally were, and remain, a Savile Row tailor and their bespoke output is up to that standard.
Not in my experience. KFS had an American licensee through the 70s and 80s. KFS tailored clothing I have seen was US-made, sometimes well.
A lot of these 40s proportions were revived in the 70s. The recent Polo model, the Garrison, has the wide lapels that leapfrog back over the 70s stylings of Tom Ford to the 40s Cary Grant wardrobe that inspired Ralph originally.
Not ill- judged at all. Everyone did it, and many labels and designers licensed far more promiscuously. KFS/us with that "London - New York" label was good and the earlier stuff, from the 70s like your tweed suit, was best-made of all. Quality levels on these licensees rarely rose & usually declined over time.
These old arrangements only seem ill-judged in retrospect. In the last 10 or 15 years, there was a reappraisal of business strategy by many English, French and Italian houses. They bought back their old licenses or let them expire; then relaunched RTW at a higher end of the market.
The 70s were good for famous-name designers; all that easy money...in his documentary, Valentino rues the passing of that time.
Wow! Is there any possible way to have the lapels cut and re-shaped so they are smaller?
Inorite. There must be a way.
BTW this one was made in Canada for Barney's International House...which apparently has nothing to do with IHOP.
Yes, though usually the lapel buttonhole is a problem. Those are so wide, though, the tailor might be able to cut them back to the other side of the hole and get away with it. The lapels might end up slightly on the narrow side, but not horribly so.
Hmmm. Well in that case EazyE, this thing is pretty much your size if you wanna give it a whirl...
That KFS is a cool suit .. I have quite a few bespoke tailored Savile Row Kilgour French & Stanbury suits going on the website next week, around 15 of them infact
Separate names with a comma.