Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, Oct 1, 2011.
Hello all. I'm considering commissioning a tweed sport coat for relatively casual use in the city this autumn/winter, to be worn with denim and moleskin in particular.
Bearing in mind that I live in the north of England where temperatures are slightly cooler than in London, would a 19oz tweed be appropriate for this use or would it be too heavy? I would probably just wear it over OCBDs and perhaps a pullover.
Also, I am still undecided on leather vs horn buttons. I think that the more rustic nature of leather buttons could be ideal for my casual needs but I have read elsewhere that leather buttons are never advised. I would be curious to hear your thoughts.
Speaking of the weather, 102* here today. Think I'll have to wait a little longer on tweed.
I'm not an expert but normal weight is roughly 450-600 gm and you're comfortably in that range.
Personally I prefer horn to leather because I find it a bit jarring when my leather buttons stand in obvious contrast to my shoes and belt, but it's generally a matter of personal preference.
Agreed. ". . . never advised" is a bit dogmatic, IMO. If the leather buttons don't contrast with the coat or, better yet, recede visually into the cloth, the chances of a visual shock in contrast with the shoes is much reduced. Besides, suede chukkas go with the outfit you describe so well that leather buttons are 'almost' a requirement. Note the lack of dogma . . .
That donegal is superb, any chance you'll have it for sale?
I will be having my next and hopefully final fitting for my three-piece suit (in Dashing Tweeds' Fleet cloth, as seen earlier in the thread) next Saturday. Really looking forward to it and will post pics as soon I can.
Thanks for your advice, gents.
The coat is going to be mid-grey in colour with three open patch pockets. I was previously toying with the idea of using burgundy leather buttons which, by the way, seem totally impossible to find, but OlSarge's post has now made me consider grey leather buttons. I think they could look quite good while allowing more flexibility in my choice of shoes and belt.
Final question - what's the general consensus on functional collars/storm lapels? As this is just a casual item I think it could be a pretty cool bespoke feature. But I can't see myself actually needing to use it when I'm just going to be wearing this coat in the city.
LOL I live in the SoCal suburbs where, as you can imagine, the need for the storm flap with button runs from seldom to never. However, my favorite tweed jacket came with it and I think, as you said, that it is a very cool feature. After all, one never knows . . .
Love them. No reason not to get one. If you don't need it, you just wont use it. Really gives the coat a ton of character.
Liam you were wise not to show me the non-tartan tweeds!
I've been thinking about commissioning a tweed in these sort of colours and style but with 2.25" lapels, button down flap pockets including the breast pocket (covered buttons) and side vents. I would straighten off the front opening at the bottom too so it holds together better.
Closer to a shooting coat?
Would have been a moot point. I bought them all.
Here are two coats I got recently that may inspire someone.
This has no label nor any scrap of one but is probably English, and from the 60s. The fiery red and burnt orange overplaid on the olive, brown, black and tan ground is very much of the period. The lapel button in addition to the throat latch is a practical touch, and the single working cuff button is still distinctive. The canvassing is fairly light, which makes me believe it was made by a cosmpolitan big-city tailor. Provincial tailoring would have been more traditional and stiffer, or so I like to believe.
This was made by Anderson & Sheppard in 1977 for Henry Ford II, who ran the place for three decades until the mid 1970s. He was the founder's grandson; the middle generation was Edsel.
The green and blue shades here seem very much of the 70s, as are the wider lapels.
Both of these are for my personal wardrobe. If you want to see a bakers-dozen plus of other Savile Row tweeds in 40-42, try here.
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