Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by eazye, Oct 24, 2013.
@arnathor : do not be afraid to use your buttons. that is all.
- good work, keep at it.
What do you mean, sir?
firsly, i just want to say i'm not picking on you. some turkeys on here will tell you never to fasten the bottom button. because they read somewhere that it's unfashionable. i know what they are thinking, and i disagree. as do you, i suspect. these pics are the topic.
Do you not think these would look better with the lower button(S) fastened?
-with a tie, they are respectable fits. and buttons pull in the jacket, giving the silhouette that the original design intended. for some jackets this does not apply. (3buttons etc) a "Pulled in" jacket looks better than a jacket fail while trying to obey silly unsaid rules. post the same fit with a tie and the buttons done, you will agree it looks just fine. and a belt works, even for the sake of accessorizing.
you have good taste, just believe it and run with it.
Arnathor, basically, what you want in the quarters of a jacket is for them to half cover the bottom button. If they don't quite cover the button, that's okay -- but there shouldn't be a gap.
38R, buttoning the bottom button is not done in CM. Doing so would take a rig involving those jackets outside of the realm of traditional menswear -- so while it could look better than having that triangle of shirt showing, if you want to look traditionally well-dressed (which is admittedly a small, restricted subset of looking good), then, as a rule, you don't button the bottom button on a single breasted jacket. If your approach is a bigger-tent kind of thing, then you probably can figure out a way for the bottom button to look good -- but you have to make sure it doesn't look like bad CM.
This is happening because they're a bit tight, so in this specific case, the bottom button wouldn't really address the issue, because it will pull a lot.
Do you have the trousers for that DB jacket? If yes, .
If not, it's a cool flannel orphan, and should be treated as such: jeans and an open collar, or the stripe is bold enough that you can push the boat out a little bit and get metal buttons put on for a sort of mod '60s look.
Now This, is interesting........ much to learn, you have, young skywalker.
yes, i know about King edward VII, and understand that you learned from those who follow this rule. but it is by no means "A Rule", just a superstition related to an urban legend.. -on the other side , try to "never do the last button rule" in the military. you will learn fast. and "Traditional menswear" owes a lot to military uniforms.
there are sooooo many unwritten laws in menswear, that to say only one is LAW. is naiive to say the least. remember.. the profile/silhouette is most important, next color and texture. and in the instance of the above???? do up the button. there is much more to critique, but that is not my MO on here. for me it depends on how high the last button is from my waist. as doing up the last button can make the jacket look longer than i want.
unless you are "rotund" , they are there for a reason. "not done in CM? or not done in the small pond which is SF CM" trust me. i know this and could tell you why.
arnathor, higher waist-ed trousers would help with this too. Sz38r, buttoning the bottom button on a two or three button jacket makes it look like you don't know how to dress yourself, end of story.
CM jackets are not cut to have the bottom button fastened, buttoning them up to fix fit issues is a terrible idea.
I have never understood the idea of not using the buttons on a sport coat/suit jacket or whatever. From what I've read, it seems to be a copout to cover up bad tailoring or the fact that the wearer has gained a few pounds since the suit was tailored.
I'm no expert on these matters, just stating my opinion. I figure that if there are buttons, should be used.
Not since WWII. Since then, it's been partially a tradition, and partial a way to allow for more open quarters than would be possible if the jacket were meant to be buttoned.
Military uniforms generally have totally square fronts.
Not buttoning the bottom button on an SB jacket with cutaway fronts is part of the profile/silhouette, in a CM context.
Honestly, where do you guys learn this nonsense???
while i rarely do all buttons, it is complete B.S to say either it's a rule, or they are not designed that way.
in short, homeboy needs better fitting jackets, and a little help. but telling him the "SF" laws of CM is not gonna help.
if the last button is rather high? i'll do it, if it is low? i will leave it. each fit is unique. conformism it a poor excuse for a lack of individual style.
"i have Buttons, and I'm not afraid to use them"
This is where CM folks lose me: I understand the idea that it affects the silhouette of the jacket, but not why that is the standard. The only logical explanation I've seen to not buttoning the bottom button is to allow for easier access to the snuff box in the vest pocket. If you don't need quick access to those pockets, why have that quick access? To me, having a bit of tie and shirt showing looks more amateurish than having the buttons buttoned.
"According to the lore of menswear, in the early 1900s King Edward VII started the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit undone.
Apparently, he grew so rotund that he was unable to fasten the bottom button of his waistcoat and jacket. To not offend the king, those associated with him started doing the same. The custom then gradually spread the world round (as England was still largely an imperial power with great influence across the globe)."
@Fueco i would LOVE to see your best suit fit. it might be surprisingly good.
That's the whole point, you are not supposed to see shirt, a lower buttoning point and higher waist trousers would fix a lot of his fit problems. Buttoning the bottom button however, is guaranteed to make you look like an amatuer , "personal style" has nothing to do with it.
listen to eazy, the rest of these fools are leading you astray.
this is where you are correct. and only this. i remember your early fits. (No comment) and Arnathor is trying. so try to be helpful.
But eazye ,- you are getting close to losing "Your style" by listening to the CM nonsense. you know inside what looks good. f#*k listening to others.
i have fun with the fits posted on here. -but my bread and butter was telling "CM" men what to wear, since long before you joined, or were a student of the game.
i posted why some believe this B.S. and refute it 100%. Arnathor is not so rotund that it will look "pulled in" by doing the buttons.
and Fueco, is right. i see so many amatuer looking fits that get applauded that i have simply accepted that most have it wrong. why? -because they believe the B.S, and all try to look the same.
in fact, i would like to see a Fueco vs eazye fit battle. i bet one tie on fueco.
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