Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, May 18, 2015.
Size on dat Zegna?
3 piece made in France vintage Calvin Klein suit a pick up? I didn't have enough cash today to grab it forgot my wallet at home. Go back and pick up tomorrow?
T. J. Max summer sale. Found some ten dollar polo shirts and pants and this is the best of the bunch. So then went over to Marshall expecting more of the same, but instead the sale price was twenty instead of ten...oh well..I can wait!
wes - yes
spoo - no
jompso - The suit is a traditional form of men's formal clothes in the Western world. For some four hundred years, suits of matching coat, trousers, and waistcoat have been in and out of fashion. The modern lounge suit's derivation is visible in the outline of the brightly coloured, elaborately crafted royal court dress of the 17th century (suit, wig, knee breeches), which was shed because of the French Revolution. This evolution is seen more recently in British tailoring's use of steam and padding in moulding woolen cloth, the rise and fall in popularity of the necktie, and the gradual disuse of waistcoats and hats in the last fifty years.
The modern lounge suit appeared in the late 19th century, but traces its origins to the simplified, sartorial standard of dress established by the English king Charles II in the 17th century. In 1666, the restored monarch, Charles II, per the example of King Louis XIV's court at Versailles, decreed that in the English Court men would wear a long coat, a waistcoat (then called "petticoat"), a cravat (a precursor of the necktie), a wig, and knee breeches (trousers), and a hat.
Throughout the 1940s and 1950s the trend had been to simplify and modernize the suit as much as possible. For example, by the 1960s the size of the lapel had shrunk to a very small size. Suit coats were also cut as straight as possible without any indication of a waistline. Cloth rationing changed styles significantly, contributing to a large reduction in the popularity of many cuts, such as the double-breasted suit.
The New York Times Style Magazine explains one iconic suit of the era, the gray flannel suit:
Back in 1955, when denim was the height of rebelliousness, Sloan Wilson's novel The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit turned a men's classic into a synonym for drab, middle-class conformity . . . Flannel had humble beginnings — the name is reputedly derived from "gwlanen," Welsh for woolen cloth — and was used for underwear in the 19th century. In the 1880s white flannel was worn for summer sports; by the 1920s the more seasonless gray had become a favorite. When the Prince of Wales wore gray flannel trousers on his 1924 trip to America, they were aped by collegiates on both sides of the Atlantic. Cary Grant and Fred Astaire then carried the trend through to the 1940s. The archetypal square of the postwar era was later described by Esquire's style encyclopedia as a neat, circumspect, conservative man who carried an attaché case and regarded a pink button-down shirt as his one sartorial fling.
In the late 1960s and early 1970s the Nehru jacket style was worn by a few in the United States — Johnny Carson for example.
In the 1970s, a snug-fitting suit coat became popular once again and this style permitted the return of the waistcoat. This new three-piece suit style became associated with disco music and its culture, specifically popularised by the film Saturday Night Fever, where the tight waistcoat was basic to that fashion. The tight three-piece suit was equated with the discothèque culture. The socially conservative backlash against disco music culture ended the popularity of snug-fitting three piece suits.
In the late 1970s, several brands, most notably Haggar, started to introduce the concept of "suit separates", separately sized coats and pants allowing a man to purchase the appropriate coat and pant size. "The concept of 'Custom Fit Suits' was a Haggar innovation allowing gentlemen to purchase jackets and pants separately, by size, which eliminated the need for tailoring the pant." '
The 1980s saw a trend towards the simplification of the suit once again. The jacket became looser and the waistcoat was completely dispensed with. A few suit makers continued to make waistcoats, but these tended to be cut very low and often had only four buttons. The waistline on the suit coat went down again in the 1980s to a position well below the waist. By 1985-1986, three-piece suits were on the way out and making way for cut double-breasted suits and two piece single-breasted.
The early first decade of the 21st century saw the return to popularity of the three-button two-piece suit, which then went back out of fashion as the decade wore on.
Although the man's tailored suit is commonly perceived as the ultimate conservative costume of Western culture, extravagant variations on the tailored suit have been adopted by many subcultures over the last century as a matter of fashion or social identity. As early as 1922, Emily Post addressed what she termed the "freak American suit" in her influential guide Etiquette:
You will see it everywhere, on Broadway of every city and Main Street of every town, on the boardwalks and beaches of coast resorts, and even in remote farming villages. It comes up to hit you in the face year after year in all its amazing variations: waist-line under the arm pits, "trick" little belts, what-nots in the cuffs; trousers so narrow you fear they will burst before your eyes, pockets placed in every position, buttons clustered together in a tight little row or reduced to one. Such progressive styles may not reflect the international tastes or etiquette.
Some of the non-traditional tailored suit styles of the past century include:
The Jazz suit of the early 1920s were extremely high-waisted and snug-fitting and were worn with trousers which were quite high-waisted and trouser legs were short and revealed the wearer's socks.
The Zoot suit of the late 1930s and 1940s.
The Western suit, a form of western wear featuring a tailored jacket with "western" details such as pointed yokes or arrowhead pockets.
The Nudie suit, a highly decorated form of western wear.
The Beatle suit, inspired by Pierre Cardin's collarless jackets, derived from Edwardian suits.
The Mod suit, a fashion of the 1960s. Characteristics include a very slim cut, narrow lapels, three or four buttons and a strongly tapered waist. Usually single-breasted. The cloth generally consists in part of mohair.
The Safari suit, a fashion of the 1970s. Patterned after military dress uniforms worn in hot climates, it consisted of (long, but sometimes short) trousers and short-sleeved jacket with patch pockets of a light suiting fabric, typically of beige or pastel shades of blue and green. It was worn with a short-sleeved shirt, mostly of open neck design, but occasionally with a tie. Another style associated with this was the leisure suit, which had a long-sleeved shirt-like jacket.
The Disco suit, a fashion of the 1970s with exaggerated lapels and flared trousers and usually necktie omitting, often in white or brightly coloured polyester fabric, the jacket was based on the jackets popular in the 1930s.
The Mandarin suit or Nehru Jacket, a simpler style worn with no necktie, has become increasingly popular in the late 1990s and first decade of the 21st century.
The Power suit of the mid-1980s and early 1990s. It's a double breasted suit characterized by sharp cuts, wide shoulder pads and a stiff rigidity.
So yeah, id kop that shit.
Ha! That was funny! I hope you cut and pasted instead of having to type all that.
Hermes galore...then a burger? What about a steak man!
@richnet12 nice grab! I've been hitting all the TJs and Marshalls too. Some decent stuff to be had.
This one is NA that I grabbed today for me. This is gren right?
Its gren from my point of view
The Brioni fits me the least but I like the green herringbone
Big thumbs up to @My main man for being an overall awesome guy!
Need some luck over here guys.
Maybe just a few kiton or brioni?
Will settle for Zegna Quindici
FTFY. Nice haul dude. Now go have that drink.
True thrift prices!
3 piece suit in good condition is always a kop! FF is a plus!
Been hitt'n up my hood?
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