Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, May 18, 2015.
I picked this one up earlier this year...might be the one you're thinking of:
It takes skill to sew a shirt with a machine as well. It also takes a good quality machine, capable of producing a consistent, very fine stitch.
Your justification of a high priced garment lies in the realm of the artisan--you don't mind paying extra if it was made by the hands of an artisan. But your preference doesn't devalue a shirt made with a machine. There are other important factors to consider, too, like: collar quality, fabric quality, cut, and quality control in the factory.
A hand made shirt is a dandy thing, but impractical for anyone other than an enthusiast or a billionaire. For someone making good money that needs more than a handful of shirts in rotation, buying a shirt--at retail--with a hand-attached collar isn't the smartest choice. (Present company obviously excluded, because we're in th enthusiast category, and also kop these at about $5/each.)
Is this ironic--like complimenting a Wayans brother on his work in Scary Movie?
If not, thank you. Still a work in progress.
if you really want a crash course, check out rawrdenim.com and they have a link/article for every denim noob question in the book. I do hope it's not the best denim dedicated website out there because some of their writers seem a little wet behind the ears so to speak, however the very basics they do cover and for the most part are correct.
Sheesh.. and I thought this linen one I picked up earlier this year was insane with a msrp of $845.00
I have to agree here... It's ridiculous how often I have replaced original buttons on Canali and Zegna shirts. It's to the point now where I have actually taken all the buttons off of a few shirts that I really like and replaced them all, even though only 1 had come off. Gotten pretty quick at it, but still frustrating.
I have noticed Sartoria Partenopea buttons are also well done with crow's foot stitching.
All my kiton shirts are hand made even the collars. http://robertjonesmenswear.com/sportswear/kiton-2/
I agree with you, they can prove to be quite impractical, I have learned first hand. And yes, I for instance wouldn't have a fucking clue what to do with a sheet of cotton and a sewing machine...probably wind up with the shit sewn to the back of my hand, so there is definitely skill involved in that. My point was merely the fact that premium price points should go hand in hand with a premium garment and in my eyes I see that as a garment that has been paid the utmost attention to and crafted to the highest of standards. When I think of this, entirely hand made is what I think of. It does take skill to make a shirt with a sewing machine, but to make a shirt entirely by hand, well enough that it fetches prices up to $900, is an impressive feat and obviously something highly respected and revered, at least in my eyes. I wouldn't call myself a practical person, I'm stubborn as fuck as I'm sure many of you have noticed, so practicality is thrown out the window with me. I just want to know what I'm paying for is quality materials painstakingly and in a highly time consuming manner, were sewn together by an individual that is at the very top of his trade. I want to know that that is behind that price tag, not someone who is very skilled at using a machine, the sex appeal is not there nor is justification for premium prices either (in my eyes). But again, this is just me, I speak for no one, and it's purely my opinion. I respect and understand yours and I agree as well, I'm just, as stated, a stubborn fuck.
I know, right? I've replaced full sets of button threads just because I was afraid they were gonna fly off at random times and I'd lose that button. Not a huge deal, because I have a large stock of MOP buttons, but some buttons are really specific.
I have this really nice Luciano Barbera shirt where the buttons would just pop right off if you pulled on the exposed thread... And the buttons are pretty nice, and all engraved with "LUCIANO BARBERA". Of course there's no spares on the lower hem or inside -_-... So I completely replaced the threads with my own handwork, doing crowsfoots on each. Maybe it's just me being a perfectionist with my personal clothing, but you can seriously tug the living hell out of these buttons now and they wont come off. I bet the Mother of Pearl would actually snap before the threads gave out. It takes me about 5-7 mins per button, which is super slow, but eh... I take great pride in my personal stuff.
Anyone else separately hand-wash and line-dry all their T-shirts?
Oh and lemme interject one correction. I now recall the white Kiton was actually $550, not $500...so $550 is their starting point... seeing the disparity though is crazy.
Here's an analogy of what I mean:
A Ferrari and Maserati fall under the same corporate umbrella and may even share many of the same parts--including the engine. The Ferrari is completely hand made. A work of art. But it's completely impractical for a well-to-do person to spend his car budget on a Ferrari for his only means of transportation. The maintenance is astronomical, and the Ferrari wasn't really designed to be a commuter car. Now take the Maserati--still a high level of quality, but assembled at least partially by machine. The maintenance is less ridiculous, and in most cases it was actually designed to be an everyday car.
Edit: I've been out if the Ferrari loop for awhile so they may not be completely hand made anymore, but I assume at least still all assembled by hand.
Damn, really? I could've sworn there was some fine machine stitching along the body sides, underside of the sleeve seams, and the hems... I'm not near my warehouse right now, so I can't check up on any of mine... But I will check when I get home.
@Letric Haha no, but question since we touched on the topic... Do you put very much much of a shank on your shirt buttons when you sew them back on? So many I have pulled have no shank behind them at all, which I know is part of the reason they pop off so easily...
Cold delicate and hang dry. Good undershirts/t-shirts that keep their shape and size for an extended period of time are weirdly hard to come by....something so basic you would think someone would have figured it out by now. There's James Perse but no one wants to or can, spend over $50 bucks for all their basic shirts, crazy talk.
I did find a $945 price tag on a Kiton shirt at NMLC.
I've never been overly impressed with high end clothing. In fact, that LVC shirt I found today seemed much better constructed. I guess those Japanese machines know what they're doing.
The best in my opinion and would be a go to shirt for quality and price point is still borrelli hands down.Those ladies can stich. Brioni and zegna have sloely put themselves in the canali crap catagory. Tom ford is glorified zegna. The best shirts for strength is Kirkland signature.
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