1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 9: A MTM nylon MA-1 bomber from Falcon Garments

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    The 6th auction of the year is for a nylon MA-1 from Falcon garments. Please bid often and generously here

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The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II (Return to the Thunderdome)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, May 18, 2015.

  1. impuntura

    impuntura Distinguished Member

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  2. impuntura

    impuntura Distinguished Member

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    Also this,Dolce Gabanna leather moto jacket,heavy as fuck.
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  3. 330CK

    330CK Affiliate Vendor

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    Attaching sleeves and a collar by hand doesn't automatically make it a good shirt. It's actually pretty impractical and fragile.
     


  4. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Distinguished Member

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    Tomorrow my favorite estate sale company is having a sale. This is the lady who looks at huge piles of stuff I carry up and says, give me $50. And that's even if the prices she put on it total $300.

    This sounds like it could be the mother of all sales. It is being held in a former Motorcycle Warehouse -- yes, warehouse. 30,000 square feet of floor space. Furniture, housewares, art, collectibles, clothing, stereo equipment, and more than you can imagine. It took them 5 weeks to get it ready. I don't think I'll be getting away with $100 this time.

    If I make it out alive I will try to post pics of my (hopefully) epic find!

    I just hope the thrift is with me!
     


  5. Jompso

    Jompso Distinguished Member

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    You're absolutely right. Just as a lock stitch on a jean hem is much more durable than a chain stitch on a jean hem, however the chain stitch is how it used to be done, is slightly more labor intensive, needing someone skilled with a union special and it recreates an eminence of hand crafted quality. Being made by hand doesn't make shirts or clothes in general more durable, not by any means. But being made by hand means that there was actual labor, manual labor, by a person not machine, who was putting your garment together by hand. A seasoned professional who knows what he's doing and although his stitching may not be as durable and garments more fragile, they were put together by a person. Thus, justifying higher price tags because you are factoring in the presence of an actual human throughout the garments entire construction process and that it was skillfully constructed for you by hand, not just pushed through a machine. Made by hand may not necessarily be the most durable, but it is preferred by me at least if I'm paying those prices. I want someone who sits there day in and day out making these garments to perfection. The durabilty can by addressed, and reinforced down the line if needed, however the labor and justification of price will always be there.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2015


  6. impuntura

    impuntura Distinguished Member

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    330CK I like your website
     


  7. TheNeedMachine

    TheNeedMachine Distinguished Member

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    Ergh...I was all like "motorcycle warehouse - need BSA or Norton or Triumph with sidecar!". Probably no such luck, but otherwise sounds amazing!!
     


  8. TheNeedMachine

    TheNeedMachine Distinguished Member

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    impuntura I like the cut of your jib
     


  9. Letric

    Letric Distinguished Member

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    Aren't some Kiton shirts like $650-950+ ? Pretty sure I saw like @Fueco or someone post a pic a long time ago of a Kiton price tag that was like $1K+.

    Also, when you say made by hand... That means they're hand-fed through sewing machines and such, right? Pretty sure I recall seeing machine stitching on several Kitons I own. Kitons have hand-stitching on the shoulder, collar, cuffs, etc... But some areas like the hems, placket, sleeves are machine done. I believe right now, the only "Entirely Hand Sewn" shirt available is from Anna Matuozzo, and that's just what I've read / seen in photos.

    Anna Matuozzos are the only shirt I would pay "retail" for in that high-price spectrum. To me, her shirts are the only things really worth $900+.
     


  10. Letric

    Letric Distinguished Member

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    I agree with this except for 1 thing.... Buttons.

    Hand-sewn, crows-foot or chicken-foot stitched buttons are like... Indestructible. I don't know what the fuck they do with machine-stitched buttons, but there's times where a little thread will be sticking out of it... and I pull it just to see what happens, and ZZZZZZIP! The thread all comes out like it wasn't even locked into the fabric, and the button flies off somewhere. So fucking enfuriating... And this isn't on J.crew shirts mind you, this is like Zegna... Canali, Brioni, etc. The only shirts where the buttons are good and attached are ones that are hand-sewn... Borrelli, Isaia, etc.

    Sometimes when a Button comes off a shirt, I re-sew it by hand with just a simple crude cross stitch, and even then I can tug on it with the force of 1000 clydesdale horses and it stays on there. Dunno WTF they're doing when they sew buttons on at Zegna's factories, but it needs to change.
     


  11. double00

    double00 Distinguished Member

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    and now for some machine-made goodness:

    a coupla stops and janked this:

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    exterior label gone, clearly a 517 saddleman. happy to get the red tab version. Talon 42 zip, never redlined, but yes black flags.

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    pretty vintage fade. sorry for the pic...

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    Big E on the left, little e on the right. oddly enough, same button stamp = same factory...
     


  12. Jompso

    Jompso Distinguished Member

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    Some shirts may be higher, they may be made with higher quality cottons or a 3 ply cotton or something like that. I'm just referencing the standard Kiton white shirt which is $500 and I know cuz I was in the Kiton section of Barneys a couple weeks ago about to say fuck it and hand over my credit card, however my size was the only one out of stock...guess it was not meant to be. And talking to the Kiton specialist at Barneys, it seems like pretty much everything they produce is handmade start to finish. He was talking to me about walking through the Kiton factory and seeing all the craftsman at work and sitting down with one who took one solid piece of woven silk and quickly fashioned him a 7 fold tie right there. I'm pretty sure it's an all hands affair with them but perhaps you are correct.
     


  13. Jompso

    Jompso Distinguished Member

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    Funny cuz I've had the exact opposite experience. Not with all high quality shirts, just with one, my Finamore. I had some very slight work done on it and my tailor even tipped his cap and confirmed that that thing is handmade from start to finish, I popped a button the first time I put it on and the second time, 2 separate buttons. At the time it was the nicest shirt I owned so I chalked it up to being a sacrifice for hand tailoring, funny your experience is so different. The rest are solid and nothing since, but it's strange that you highlight the one thing that I actually had a minor issue with.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2015


  14. drlivingston

    drlivingston Distinguished Member

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    I am seriously going to have to purchase Rosetta Stone for Denim speak.
     


  15. TheNeedMachine

    TheNeedMachine Distinguished Member

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    All hand-made, start-to-finish. At best, the nearest "machine" is a pair of scissors. @Letric may be thinking of someone else. Follow them on Instagram or whatnot - stuff is beyond lux.
     


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