Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, May 18, 2015.
One stop one grab. Little repair on the right sleeve but I still picked it up. Corneliani?
Yes corn, nice find
@Shanejosephxxx Yea buddy
Edit : seconds too late
It's a definite pass. However, if you stare at a brand new Charvet tie long enough, runs and pulls will spontaneously appear. It's the Charvet phenomenon.
They are the most fragile silk ever.
Capnwes Fun Fact #1245
The worst was back when I was less selective about my thrifting attire. I had a pair of cargo shorts on that had velcro fasteners on the lower pockets. While standing in line I completely destroyed the first two Charvet ties I ever found, which were just hanging innocently at my side.
Velcro is out ever since.
Last week find. Its such a nice colour too.
so... what is this? an 80s civvy flight jacket with a vietnam-era blood chit sewn into it?
i've seen repros that look sort of like this (pretty sure Avirex does this kind of thing), with the map lining and a repro chit, but this is military-issued?
i really don't know that much about militaria sorry to say but the knowledge is always welcome
red baron patch is nice
I've had a few LBM 1911, and all of them have been unlined (save for inside the sleeves), unstructured, natural shoulder. The last two I picked up:
NMLC and Saks Off Fifth around here are typically overflowing with snagged Charvet's in their clearance sections.
Not intended to correct you because you are fairly on the point with it being diffusion, the small difference is diffusion brands are also made to be cheaper, widely accessible, and of less quality. Now LBM 1911 is slightly cheaper, and is more accessible, however the quality is still there, it's just, as @jdrizzy stated, a more contemporary line featuring slimmer cuts, cropped jackets, bolder patterns, less structured jackets etc.. EZ and ZZ are not at all comparable. The Z Zegna line is a renamed/relaunched version of the Ermenegildo Zegna Soft line that was produced up til about 10 or so years ago. It's made in Mexico, the pieces usually have some percentage of synthetic in them, and are fused garbage. This is a true diffusion line in every sense.
I just recently had a basketweave, open woven silk, Charvet in my possession and sold it, it was a consignment item. I literally handled that thing like it was a faberge egg, it was fucking begging for the slightest excuse to catch a run. Came out unscathed, no clue how. Hate they sell so well, makes the 50% chance your gonna get a pull in it before you sell it suck that much more when it happens, if it isn't already fucked to begin with.
Most of the 1911 stuff goes for the deconstructed look, so having a light half canvas is consistent with their look.
But also remember that these days ANYTHING with a canvas coming past the middle button is a huge anomaly. (And, frankly, that's because canvas below the middle button very much approaches the point of diminishing returns)
But the next thing to note is that what you're calling "handwork" on 1911 stuff is machine done overstitch. And so is most of what this thread calls "handwork" That seam stitching on nearly all Zegna and Corneliani and even modern Brioni? It's done by an expensive machine. True hand stitching is ever so slightly irregular. The line wanders a bit, the stitch size is just a bit larger and smaller and irregularly spaced. Look at what you're calling handwork and you'll see it's as regular as railroad tracks. No human on earth can do that. You want an example of real hand stitching, get your hands on a real Savile Row piece. Or an actual Cesare Attolini piece. Or an Oxxford piece. Oh, hey, fancy that. Those pieces of shit you all pass? Yeah, they have the ACTUAL hand work that the suits you DO buy try to imitate with machines.
If you really want an exercise in patience, try keeping a Charvet bow tie snag free.
Hate that I'm commenting on all this. Last one and I'm out....
THIS....The best sign of handwork, of really good handwork, is how unnoticable the stitching really is. Irregular yes, but almost impossible to be seen too. Unfortunately, the highly noticeable pick stitching on areas like lapels has become fashionable so manufacturers are now sure to make this noticeable/highly visible. Due to this unfortunate practice, machines are now employed because no one wants highly noticeable stitching to look totally irregular and uneven.
True true, thanks for the knowledge guys. I love learning about this stuff.
P.s for the guys out there that have dealt with cashmere blend / cashmere charvet ties. Those pill like nothing else
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