Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, May 18, 2015.
We aim to please!
Let me step in here:
As it turns out, over 30% of American consumers surveyed by the International Wool Secretariat reported that they were "allergic" to wool. After extensive study, scientists have determined that these consumers were not allergic to wool. The perceived allergic reaction to wool was actually a painful response by sensitive skin to coarse fibers. The consumers skin was being "prickled" by coarse guard hair or kemp-like fiber found in the wool.
Scientists have determined that it doesn't matter whether a garment is made of wool, Alpaca, mohair, or man-made acrylics, if over 5% of the fabric is comprised of fiber with a diameter in excess of 30 microns, it will prickle or itch. Research has also established that once the average diameter of the fiber in a fabric or sweater exceeds 22 microns, the prickle factor begins to appear. In other words, the person wearing the garment begins to itch.
I'm still not sure about the Hermes. The style box is slightly crooked against the pattern, and it might have come from a different donor, after all.
The softness of fine cashmere depends largely on the extraordinary length and fineness of the hair of the kel goat (which originated in Kashmir, hence cashmere, an obsolete spelling of Kashmir). Cashmere fibers average 18.5 microns, one-third the thickness of human hair. The softest, finest, and most expensive goat hair is found in the eastern region of China's Inner Mongolia.
Numerous attempts to raise cashmere goats in such places as Texas, Maine, and Australia haven't worked. Americans and Australians feed their goats well, with the consequence that they grow thicker hair. The Monogolian goats live on a sparse diet and the hair is essentially starved for nourishment and therefore very fine.
Cashmere avoids any of the prickle stigma by requiring any fabric labeled as cashmere to average 18.5 microns and have no more than 3% of the fiber over 30 microns. As a result, the cashmere image is one of pure luxury and consumers look forward to its soft, comfortable feel.
Leaving behind BB 1818 or BB Golden Fleece suits, especially to flip, is madness. Leaving behind a Greenfeild is crazy. Same goes if it were an Italian one and you left behind an Isaia. BB suits, the top of the line ones, absolutely are worth money. It's Brooks Brothers. They're pretty much this countries staple suit. There is always a market for higher end Brooks Brothers, always, you never pass that, its solid easy flip and it will go to someone who has worn this same cut for years and loves it and will never stop. You can go back but if there just 1 other person that thrifts anywhere near you, it's gone. But goo luck.
Checked the Brunello Cuchinelli website for their claimed source for cashmere. They like cashmere from the starving goats in China and Mongolia with the thin hair....
The cashmere region covers Afghanistan,
India, China and Mongolia, where the Hircus
goats with the prized golden fleece are bred.
Cloaks and scarves were hand-made from this
soft fiber as early as the 17th century. In the
18th century, the first scarves were brought back
to England by the soldiers of the East India
Trading Company and were so successful that
they were copied and sold in France and then in the
rest of Western Europe. Cashmere is made from the
undercoat of these incredible animals. To survive in
such a hostile environment, with freezing winters
(-30°C) and hot summers, these goats have
developed under their longer, tougher outer coat an
under-down of thousands of super-soft, super-fine
fibers, concentrated in a small area.
Chinas got the highest concentration of Cashmere goats in the world.....and if anyone knows Cashmere it's definitely Cuccinelli. Everyone praises him for it but I think that has a lot to do with brand and hype and it being such a coveted item on here when found by someone, not for true actual impact and achievement. But actually he was the first designer to actually start releasing cashmere in Colors, allowing you to get various sweaters of your choosing in a multitude of colors and have them be cashmere. First guy to do that.
This is actually really interesting. i had suspected it was something more than just the abrasiveness. but there it is, in plain text. as one of these 30% of people, i can pretty much only wear cashmere, or finer, Denim, leather, or synthetics. which is a shame. because wool is so awesome in the cold. an allergy to gold plating and nickel plating also. Can't really complain, it means i get to only wear nice stuff... Thanks for posting the info.
Just wondering what makes a Cuchinelli cashmere sweater a quality item; and if it is made of quality fabric from Hircus goats in China Mongolia its probably worth the price.
Is nise and soft.
Moths like to eet it.
I luv cashmear
I can't even wear cashmere. But I will pick up 80% or higher angora items and 100% mohair items to flip, because some people fine the sensation pleasurable rather than annoying. I can't empathize - I can't wear mohair for more than about a microsecond - but I can accept that other people perceive the sensation differently. I can't imagine what it was like in the past, when all people had to keep them warm (if they were lucky) was itchy wool sweaters.
Thats gotta be a first
Photo dump of some recent things and some things I've had for a while, mostly not sure what I'm going to do with them.
Buttons on the Zegna I posted earlier, unsure of whether it's an orphan
Some sporting goods
Scotland produces the finest woolen and cashmere garments not sources, however the message kinda got mixed up becuase the basis of my rant was the quote that was made that "cashmere was cashmere." So i did a fair amount of back and forth without specifying exactly but I will do so very briefly right now. Scotland produces the finest woolen and cashmere garments in the world. Thats why you want that. You want your shit made there, they make the highest quality of garments. Now their standards and methods always call for the highest standards of which they will produce this garments with. So whether it is wool or it is pure cashmere, it's going to be absolute superb fabric otherwise there centries old art form is lost on garbage.
Design houses, some at least, can absolutely be relied upon for good to excellent cashmere. Brunello Cucinilli makes some of the finest cashmere products of all sorts, in the world. Without a doubt. Cucinelli is a cashmere Pioneer and he is very much a reason why theres some of it in everyones closet. Out of any desinger out there Cucinelli makes the absolute finest, he owns the entire supply chain so control is maintained throughout the process, so its a true in house garment. Loro Piana is another obvious one. Loro Piana doesn't just make some of the finest sweaters made of not just cashmere but of baby cashmere too. They own their entire supplycain as well. Hell they even own a percentage of the Vicunas left on earth and theres only like 3 different entities that were even allowed to make that purchase. They don't just make some of the finest cashmere in the world, the make some of the best clothing in the world, if not, the best. Insane quality that is truly one of a kind. It's also at a price point that is hard to even try to grasp at first, but hey, you pay for quality.
My dog has a Jos. Bank cashmere sweater to sleep on in her bed and likes it too!
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