Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SpooPoker, May 18, 2015.
Good luck today gentlemen!
Definitely not astrakhan.
Was so excited that Id found some wake of spoo here in kc and saw two chipp suits for the first time... Alas the excitement ended during inspection finding multiple holes in both pieces shame....
Memphis recs? I'll be there for a super short conference, but I am staying downtown, so ....
Hmm... Are BBGF x Martin Greenfields considerably nicer than standard BB's or BBGF's?... Or worth a lot more?
I saw a suit at a store recently that was in decent shape. Was a Greenfield. First one I've ever seen. I left it because BB's don't seem to command a lot. Think I should go back for it?
These. Are these available for my baby feets sir?
Hit a yard sale and the REI garage sale.
Big Agnes Big House 4, new
2x paddle boards with paddles and bags. Only used 4 times
Thule SUP taxi rack. Used once.
Congrats dude! I'm kind of in the same boat here. Haven't had a day off since school started 5 weeks ago. Next anticapited day off, Thanksgiving.
I was able to make on coffee stop the other day. I think I need the Knowledge boxtm Because I totally thought this Hermes was fake until I saw all the other ties next to it, presumably from the same guy. Available
And these beauties, originally priced at $25, but talked the cashier down to $10. N/A
And not thrift related, but since you all are as big of clothing nerds as I am, I thought I'd share.
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
I just picked up the fabric that I will soon be turning into this coat. The pattern is almost done being drafted, I just need to figure out the collar and cuffs.
The Knowledge BoxTM is in Chicago if you need it!
"I think I need the Knowledge boxtm Because I totally thought this Hermes was fake until I saw all the other ties next to it, presumably from the same guy."
We can hook you up! LOL! Would love to see the Know Box on your Tumblr!
This statement is something I can't let slide. And trust me, I really fucking wanted to. Absolute zero reason to even fucking begin to bother. But I'm gonna cuz it's something that must be known by clearly you, but also everyone on here that will thrift it no matter what or is under the same insanely incorrect notion as this individual is, cashmere is not something that much be purchased, should be purchased, is a must buy, or a most of the time buy, it's a buy only when you find or you are actively seeking the good shit, buy....Cuz @impuntura Naw Man, glad to see you do appreciate Ballytyne but cashmere is NOT cashmere. Perhaps with the jackets discussed they had nice cashmere but this is not mentioned in anyway, but general ideas think one thing is universally good such as Cashmere is some you would be very very wrong to begin to think. 30-40 years ago? Cashmere is cashmere, the most expensive fabric, widely purchased by those with the means to do so. Now? i'd say 90-95% of the worlds cashmere is absolute shit, nothing more than shit. You want me to be more specific, ok, I will, but first, by shit, I mean it isn't worth any money at all so do not ever purchase new cashmere. It's produced in quantites that are absolutely insane because the West is obsessed with Cashmere, because so many do not know the truth either. Chinese textile mills churn this shit out faster then you can say it, thus they need the raw materials to keep up with supply, so they are constantly sheering this animals of their cashmere HAIR ACTUALLY, IT ISNT A WOOL, BUT A HAIR, from Cashmere goats, many breads from all over the world exist, but to get cashmere you must do so by sheering the undercoat of hair beneath the fur on its stomach only. That is the only place on the goat you get cashmere from, the undercoat of the stomach. You make a garment with stuff from anywhere else? you got yourself a piece of clothing that is now officially illegal to be referred to as cashmere.
Back to production...They are currently oversourcing the hair on these animals and not allowing for the length of time to pass for it to be long enough to get again because they must meet supply or the factory next door gets the next order, so they are sheering extremely underdeveloped hair, this shit is not developed enough to make clothes from, but nobody cares as long as it says fucking cashmere. This oversourcing from the same goats will also continue and continue until orders are met. However, with their population of cashmere goats, some do get set aside, the good ones of course, and China is able to source some extremely high quality cashmere as well, done in small batches do to shortness in supply of animal hair cuz theres just a few saved, but they did and they make some good shit. And that shit can go get fucked too because who the hell wants to take that gamble, even if the sweater tells you otherwise, naw homie.
Italy has some very nice textile mills producing extremely high quality cashmere for the ultra luxx lines of the world as well as the mass produced mid tiers like J Crew as well. I bet you 10 bucks you can't wear your Italian cashmere J. Crew sweater more than 4 times though without it starting to look like shit. I don't have to be, I have one. It looks like fucking shit. Moral, made in Italy means the same as made in China except they have laws and don't serve house hold animals as main courses in Italy. For as many high quality producers there are, there are 400 that are making for places that just want to say Italy or for orders like Banana Republic, where there isn't enough goat hair in the world for the fabric order, so commence the extreme oversourcing. Ultra Luxxx buys the good shit, you won't go wrong there for the most part, but why would you do that anyway? A gamble, dumb one too.
The very best, and the only origin that wool and cashmere that should be purchased should share, and its Scotland. In Hawick to be specific, a town in Scotland, pretty much the only industry is Textiles and it's been that way for hundreds of years, which means generations upon generations passing down skill and knowledge and ability and most importantly the heritage and the old style ways of ensuring the finest quality garments made, always. The goat are treated the exact opposite way Chinese goat are treated. Also, your not rushing these people for your order either because their not going to make sucquality garments, if it doesn't make the cut, it's not going out the front door. They will harvest when the goat's hair isn't extremely long staple fiber status, standard staple fibers don't really cut it here either. They don't do standard shit here, they do the fucking best.
So with these really long fibers come extremely durable sheets of fabric. Measuring an average of 19 Micron in width, thats per fiber fyi, and averaging lengths far supersceding the world wide accepted length where quality beings, 3 inches. This is not to say that grabbing a quality 3 inch staple cashmere from Italy is necessarily a bad call necessarily, but it's a fucking shot in the dark and your paying for Italy and a hope the thing last longer than 3 wears. fibers aren't good staple fibers would be wrong, and you grab yourself an Italian Cashmere sweater and it would probably last you a little while also, but Hawick and surrounding areas, or we can just say Scotland in general, is where cashmere or Wools, all wools you'd wanna wear, should be purchased from. Or atleast, sourced, milled, and made there....buy the fucking thing where you feel.. That is where the good stuff is still made. That is where "cashmere is cashmere." Like state previously, 30 years ago it's a whole different story, cashmere was the shit, all of it, from everywhere. Stores with names like The Gap did have a need to make a bunch of soccer moms happy by making cashmere sweaters for little girls in 8 different colors. Miles of the stuff wasn't need. but now, you buy it from Scotland, anywhere else is a waist of your money, flat out, cuz you just don't know. You purchase that shit from anywhere else and you're taking a huge gamble that you'll be covered in pills in 3 wears. Now you may not, it may be extremely nice Italian stuff, but Italy is just a name of a country that happens to be synonymous with luxury, but reality would like to differ. Because you can walk into a factory in Naples and see some Cashmere being made any day of the week. Or another Naples factory (the true main garment production hub of Italy, entirely due to the Mafia but that can be saved for another rant). Point being, I'm not fucking buying some Neapolitan cashmere, fuck that. It'll say Italy on the designer sweater you buy though, so there enlies the gamble. To reietarate and take this fucker home, Scotland makes ubelievable knits wool and cashmere, the world just makes shit for Gap and Banana Republic. If your currently in the market for wool or cashmere sweaters, make sure it was made in Scotland, more important for cashmere. Hell, I refuse to even fuckin thrift anything but Scottish wool and cashmere and I got 4 large bins provin I'm not full of shit to prove this. Pringle to Ballantyne to Alan Paine, McGeorge, Brooks Brothers etc... but hey you leave that behind everyday right? All good, I don't dp that. And I know it ain't comin, so I'll just let you know, you're welcome.
So from your experience, currently Scotland is the source of the worlds best cashmere and woolens? Do some of the major high end designers still do reliable quality control. For example, can I still rely on Brunello Cuchinelli as being good cashmere?
Also, can you tell me why i Have an allergy to wool,but not cashmere?
Haha, I was just kidding guys, but thank's for the offer!!!
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