The Official Stoffa Thread

[tuna roll]

Dropped into the New York store recently, I own and like several pairs of Stoffa trousers but first time to see whole range in person.

Interesting and very unique design and business model;

1. Make is standard mid-high range industrial product although there seem to be improvements since price hike, perhaps more bar tacking, pick stitching and hammered and cast side adjuster buckles? TBH not that great for the price point.
2. Some fabric choices like recent cotton-linen are really, really good. Basket weave appears softer and more lustrous than my previous edition. Pique and peached cotton were unexceptional, folk on here could get better at their tailor.
3. Shirt jackets IMO were somewhat disastrous - a coat shape without the shaping ability afforded by padding and lining looks very discordant, pulled several try to and nixed after first fit.
4. Generally high design and taste level is very different from other offerings though eg flight jackets exceptionally well proportioned and stylish in person.

Very surprised to learn that made to measure is same price as RTW - is this correct?

Would explain why RTW feels uncompelling at new prices but MTM in choice of material is expensive bargain if you know what I mean ..........

Not an instagrammer, I don't have better shots but pics show fabric choices albeit on previous season trousers with better finishing but without the new side-adjuster buckle.

After some thought, I pulled trigger on MTM trousers ...............

Good points. And yes, MTM is the same price as RTW.

I don't disagree on the shirt jackets subject, but I see them more as evelated overshirts or soft sport coats than jackets. Very casual and relaxed, certainly not fitting the traditional definition of a jacket. I wouldn't wear them to traditional weddings or formal meetings but more like a second layer when weather requires it, for a casual but elevated look.

And personally I prefer the double breasted model, in a darker cloth, worn always unbottoned. YMMV but the DB looks better on me and a darker cloth IMO looks better with the unstructured look.

Which trousers did you end up ordering?

 

[joacimbylehn]

MTM was always the same price as RTW, well RTW didn't use to exist, so there's that.
There have however been cases (might be standard now) of a personal pattern cost per garment type, I think especially if you can't do the base blocks with easy adjustments. Years ago I paid $500 for my personal pattern on the asymmetric coat, and a few years back when I was pondering a raglan coat, that one would too be subject to a personal pattern.

I personally prefer the older slightly stiffer basket weave, kept creases better. Fabrics and design was always their USP to me. Their flannel is still my favorite of all time, even though it's not the most durable, but there's a certain lustre and drape to it that I've never found anywhere else.

 

[tuna roll]

There have however been cases (might be standard now) of a personal pattern cost per garment type, I think especially if you can't do the base blocks with easy adjustments.

Is this something they are currently doing? I recently ordered MTM trousers and shirts and also got measured for a bunch of other garments, for future remote orders. They never mentioned the additional personal pattern cost.

For shirts I just had the sleeves shortened. But the trousers required several adjustments.

 

[Complete Novice]

Good points. And yes, MTM is the same price as RTW.

I don't disagree on the shirt jackets subject, but I see them more as evelated overshirts or soft sport coats than jackets. Very casual and relaxed, certainly not fitting the traditional definition of a jacket. I wouldn't wear them to traditional weddings or formal meetings but more like a second layer when weather requires it, for a casual but elevated look.

And personally I prefer the double breasted model, in a darker cloth, worn always unbottoned. YMMV but the DB looks better on me and a darker cloth IMO looks better with the unstructured look.

Which trousers did you end up ordering?

Very reasonable feed back - in hindsight describing their shirt jacket as disastrous is unfair for which I apologize.

My generation has been visually trained to expect;

1. Lapels with roll at the buttoning point, canvas shaping and buggy lining and taped seams for light weight suits.
2. Single need stitching with formal shirts and double needle, bar tacks etc on casual workwear.

so omitting #1 and #2 feels strange to us.

I am sure that, unlike me, you can pull off this look !

I ordered a pair of trousers in cotton linen - a heavy, crisp fabric that hangs really well, am wondering whether I should grab an MTM road jacket in basket weave to go with it ...........

 

[tuna roll]

Very reasonable feed back - in hindsight describing their shirt jacket as disastrous is unfair for which I apologize.

My generation has been visually trained to expect;

1. Lapels with roll at the buttoning point, canvas shaping and buggy lining and taped seams for light weight suits.
2. Single need stitching with formal shirts and double needle, bar tacks etc on casual workwear.

so omitting #1 and #2 feels strange to us.

I am sure that, unlike me, you can pull off this look !

I ordered a pair of trousers in cotton linen - a heavy, crisp fabric that hangs really well, am wondering whether I should grab an MTM road jacket in basket weave to go with it ...........

I completely understand it. The first time I tried their single breasted jacket I almost instantly dismissed it as an option. It just seemed very odd to me. Then later I saw some photos of the models wearing the DB model and I started to change my mind. I tried one and it felt great.

The fabric choice of course makes a big difference. The SB I tried was in washed linen; the DB was in the wool silk twill shown below. Maybe the extra thickness and weight of the wool mix gave it a bit more structure and I liked the drape better, IDK. Anyway I find this interesting about the brand - you really notice how the fabric choice makes a difference to otherwise identical garments.

I also ordered a pair of cotton-linen trousers recently, I like that cloth as well.

 

[TweedyProf]

What is the green fabric on the right?

 

[tuna roll]

What is the green fabric on the right? View attachment 2252941

1st column: upcycled cotton twill
2nd column: linen cotton twill
3rd column: cotton basketweave (the green one is called just "green")

You didn't ask me - sorry - but I saw the same swatches personally just last week.

 

[TweedyProf]

1st column: upcycled cotton twill
2nd column: linen cotton twill
3rd column: cotton basketweave (the green one is called just "green")

You didn't ask me - sorry - but I saw the same swatches personally just last week.

Rats, I was hoping it was a linen (the green).

 

[tuna roll]

Rats, I was hoping it was a linen (the green).

that would be cool. their washed linen is great.

I was initially after a pair of chocolate linen trousers but they are not offering linen at this time. Prob coming back next spring or so.

 

[joacimbylehn]

Is this something they are currently doing? I recently ordered MTM trousers and shirts and also got measured for a bunch of other garments, for future remote orders. They never mentioned the additional personal pattern cost.

For shirts I just had the sleeves shortened. But the trousers required several adjustments.

To be fair I haven't seen them personally since they ended trunk shows, but back then they talked to me about both mto charge and mtm pattern charge even for pique shirts.. They did mention that for torusers they usually forgo it because they have such a high re-order rate. Honestly if you discussed all of that and they never mentioned it, I wouldn't worry about it, I'd expect it to come up during those discussions if it was a thing. Like I said, could be down to me being so far off the ready made blocks.

 

[Complete Novice]

I completely understand it. The first time I tried their single breasted jacket I almost instantly dismissed it as an option. It just seemed very odd to me. Then later I saw some photos of the models wearing the DB model and I started to change my mind. I tried one and it felt great.

The fabric choice of course makes a big difference. The SB I tried was in washed linen; the DB was in the wool silk twill shown below. Maybe the extra thickness and weight of the wool mix gave it a bit more structure and I liked the drape better, IDK. Anyway I find this interesting about the brand - you really notice how the fabric choice makes a difference to otherwise identical garments.


View attachment 2252907

I also ordered a pair of cotton-linen trousers recently, I like that cloth as well.

@tuna roll I see your point - like you I tried a single breasted jacket and it seemed very odd, like a shirt with a lapel.

I can also understand that the style probably works better in a very heavy cloth - I tried summer weights - and double-breasted would add extra cloth on top of that.

Thanks to everyone like @joacimbylehn that took time to explain, you really opened my eyes:

1. Have always assumed (incorrectly!) that trunk shows etc were a phase the brand was going through as they scaled and that the end goal was RTW.
2. Am a very standard shape and have been ordering RTW thinking hmmm okay, decent for the price, whilst completely missing out on the entire value proposition of multiplying design x materials x MTM

The visit to the showroom opened my eyes to what this brand can do but am somewhat sad that it is really only ever going to be fully accessible in person.

1. Those of you that can visit frequently and have been getting MTM at the previous price ranges would be very sore at the recent increases but to be frank that bargain-of-the century may have been too good to last?
2. Like color by numbers, if you have an MTM project that works off their palette, I imagine it would be hard to go elsewhere, the brand loyalty must be ferocious

Much appreciated!

 

[joacimbylehn]

Yeah, sadly I’ve gained a lot of weight and a tiny bit of muscle (too bad it’s not the other way around 🤣) and most of the styles they offer today came after trunks stopped. So my mtm patterns isn’t helping much I’m afraid.

I remember in the old days, when their cotton trousers were $225-275 and they visited every 6 weeks. It was a simpler time 😁

 

[tuna roll]

Could anyone comment how breathable the paper-backed suede jacket is?

I'm considering it as a transitional weather piece, but I tend to run hot, specially when walking. I'm wondering if the suede + paper lining traps too much heat.

 

[cds]

Could anyone comment how breathable the paper-backed suede jacket is?

I'm considering it as a transitional weather piece, but I tend to run hot, specially when walking. I'm wondering if the suede + paper lining traps too much heat.

I have a wave jacket in the paper backed navy suede. Wore it today in NYC from 52-65 degrees over a poplin shirt.

Its as breathable as my suede flight jacket. It feels different though - the drape is more fluid and it moves better against various fabrics I wear under the jacket. The cut is boxier than the flight, also allowing for very good air movement.

 

[gfigo]

what other brands do you guys know of that sell the camp collar front pocket shirts similar to Stoffa? Key here is camp collar and 2 front pockets lol... and button down.