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CWL317

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I think Alden does that with B. Nelson.

Honestly, the problem with going back to the factory is they remove the welt, which means it basically destroys the purpose of having a GYW shoe to some extent, bercause they just nail more holes into the upper by putting on a new welt.
Is that why they say they can only resole a maximum 3-4 times?
 

JFWR

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new question…

does anyone know if Crockett & Jones offer a flush toe plate installation service?

I have a pair of unworn Audley that I bought a year ago and would like to fit them with toe plates before I wear them.

As far as I know, they don't.
 

JFWR

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Is that why they say they can only resole a maximum 3-4 times?

Yes. Because by removing the welt, you have to sew more holes into the upper, and eventually that makes it swiss-cheesey.

Which again is kind of absurd in respect to having the GYW there -precisely to avoid this-.
 

CWL317

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As far as I know, they don't.
Linking to the other question…I wonder if an independent install of toe plates would void acceptance for factory repair ? I might phone up tomorrow and ask them.
 

JFWR

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Linking to the other question…I wonder if an independent install of toe plates would void acceptance for factory repair ? I might phone up tomorrow and ask them.

Probably it would, yes. Toe plates actually cut the welt stitching. I only get them on shoes I know I will resole strictly with my cobbler, which admittedly, is pretty much every pair of shoes I own.

The only shoes I might not send to my cobbler are my CNES shoes for resole, as the cobbler said he finds the fiddle waist on those to be a pain up his ass to do himself. Though I would still ask him to take a look regardless.
 

CWL317

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Probably it would, yes. Toe plates actually cut the welt stitching. I only get them on shoes I know I will resole strictly with my cobbler, which admittedly, is pretty much every pair of shoes I own.

The only shoes I might not send to my cobbler are my CNES shoes for resole, as the cobbler said he finds the fiddle waist on those to be a pain up his ass to do himself. Though I would still ask him to take a look regardless.
Would it be better to NOT install toe plates? The shoe snob strongly advocates them on his blog. I’d value your opinion.
 

JFWR

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Would it be better to NOT install toe plates? The shoe snob strongly advocates them on his blog. I’d value your opinion.

Toe plates are worth it if you:

1. Wear down the toes quickly.

2. Don't intend to put a rubber outsole on the leather.

3. Like the look.

4. Stub your toe frequently.

I have toe plates on:

Edward Green Chelsea
CNES MTO spectators
Allen Edmonds Strand in green shell cordovan
Allen Edmonds Dundee in blue shell cordovan
Alden half brogues

I think that's it.

I do notice wear on my toes and I walk on city streets where it is very possible to stub your toe into the concrete a lot, so I like the added protection, as sometimes that can bust the welt clean open if there isn't some metal to take the blow.
 

CWL317

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Thanks JFWR

I’ve had this pair in rotation for 18 months now and as you can see there is wear on the toes. How far can it go before I need to resole?
It’s supposed to be more durable oak bark tanned 😟
48DEE17D-DCEB-4EA7-AF42-EFBCC15C8C5C.jpeg
66D728C5-4F3F-46D1-9B39-4DA00DA8FE5C.jpeg
 

CWL317

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You ca see the stitching at the toe beginning to show due to the wear 😟
4E2B36AC-0F4D-4C3F-BE73-36FABD938A7F.jpeg
 

JFWR

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You ca see the stitching at the toe beginning to show due to the wear 😟 View attachment 1795277

Yeah, I'd put toe taps on. That would prevent that.

You might even want to talk to your cobbler about putting on toe taps now just to protect the welt, as it looks like the rest of your soles are in nice shape.
 

CWL317

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Yeah, I'd put toe taps on. That would prevent that.

You might even want to talk to your cobbler about putting on toe taps now just to protect the welt, as it looks like the rest of your soles are in nice shape.
Can you install them now even after wearing? I thought it should be done when unworn.
But I don’t want to void factory service though 😖
 

JFWR

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Can you install them now even after wearing? I thought it should be done when unworn.
But I don’t want to void factory service though 😖

You can put on toe taps, though it's best before anything is done. But given that they cut the sole off with flush metal toe plates anyway, I don't see why you can't do it even with wear. If anything, it might be easier for the cobbler to do it, as there is less leather to remove.

I mean, the best bet would be to call C&J. Ask them what their policy is and see if they offer it. If you want to just wait till you need a full resole, you can do that, or you can you know make a decision.

The question you have to ask is: Is there any reason to fear that you will need to go to the factory with these shoes?
 

florent

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Can you install them now even after wearing? I thought it should be done when unworn.
But I don’t want to void factory service though 😖
Alternatively to metal taps, a cobbler can glue rubber taps (not necessarily full Topys, the same size as metal taps) or level up the worn out area with sole leather. Both options are less durable than metal but can be remade as many times as needed and won't mess with the welt stitching.
 

CWL317

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You can put on toe taps, though it's best before anything is done. But given that they cut the sole off with flush metal toe plates anyway, I don't see why you can't do it even with wear. If anything, it might be easier for the cobbler to do it, as there is less leather to remove.

I mean, the best bet would be to call C&J. Ask them what their policy is and see if they offer it. If you want to just wait till you need a full resole, you can do that, or you can you know make a decision.

The question you have to ask is: Is there any reason to fear that you will need to go to the factory with these shoes?
Those are actually EG brogues and I think I would prefer factory repair for peace of mind. I had a pair of Cheaney with Dainite resoled by an independent and it was ok but I’m not sure they used the same quality as the rubber left black marks on hard floor which the original didn’t. Now I can’t get Cheaney to resole in future as they don’t accept shoes previously done by 3rd parties.

Here is the pair of unworn C&J Audley that I bought a year ago. I think I’ll phone them tomorrow to ask if they will do toe plates, and post back about what they say.

D8494F3A-5709-4926-9881-DDF08E33E4B5.jpeg
 

JFWR

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Those are actually EG brogues and I think I would prefer factory repair for peace of mind. I had a pair of Cheaney with Dainite resoled by an independent and it was ok but I’m not sure they used the same quality as the rubber left black marks on hard floor which the original didn’t. Now I can’t get Cheaney to resole in future as they don’t accept shoes previously done by 3rd parties.

Here is the pair of unworn C&J Audley that I bought a year ago. I think I’ll phone them tomorrow to ask if they will do toe plates, and post back about what they say.

View attachment 1795289

If you prefer to pay the shipping + insane rates of EG repairs, then I'd just go with them. If money is no option to you, it's best to have peace of mind.

EG might be able to do toe plates. I don't know. I've seen EG with toe plates, so...could be?

I just think it's personally a waste of time/money.
 

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