**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[JUAN MANUEL]

I really like the natural colour for welts but are very exposed to stains and to look dirty, no matter how clean you have the uppers if the welt is dirty the shoes do not look right for me.

I found the solution for calf shoes, apply some dubbing to the welt and that's it. But with suede it can potentially ruin the shoes. So today I faced the task this way:

1.- Apply painter's tape to the shoe as closley to the welt as you can, do not push the tape to the shoe, you might take some glue from the tape and stick it to the suede.
2.- Apply the dubbing lightly with q-tips, less is better.
3.- Press with the q-tips or your fingers so the welts absorb the fat.
4.- With a toothbrush clean the welt so the dubbing in the stiching is clean.
5.- Take the tape off.

Be sure to wash your hands once you finish one shoe so you don't stain the suede with fat by accident.

Some pictures of the process:

 

[Munky]

I really like the natural colour for welts but are very exposed to stains and to look dirty, no matter how clean you have the uppers if the welt is dirty the shoes do not look right for me.

I found the solution for calf shoes, apply some dubbing to the welt and that's it. But with suede it can potentially ruin the shoes. So today I faced the task this way:

1.- Apply painter's tape to the shoe as closley to the welt as you can, do not push the tape to the shoe, you might take some glue from the tape and stick it to the suede.
2.- Apply the dubbing lightly with q-tips, less is better.
3.- Press with the q-tips or your fingers so the welts absorb the fat.
4.- With a toothbrush clean the welt so the dubbing in the stiching is clean.
5.- Take the tape off.

Be sure to wash your hands once you finish one shoe so you don't stain the suede with fat by accident.

Some pictures of the process:

View attachment 1492836 View attachment 1492837 View attachment 1492838 View attachment 1492839 View attachment 1492840

Just a slightly nerdy thought. I think what you have here is not the 'standard' sort of welt (that you might see in a Goodyear welted shoe) but the use of a rand, over a stitchdown sole. A rand is a thin piece of leather that is sewn around the shoe after the stitchdown process. It is partly cosmetic but it also makes the seal stronger and protects the shoe. I stand to be corrected on this one, if I have got it wrong. Great work on the cleaning, either way. Best wishes, Munky.

 

[DapperAndy]

Hi everybody !
I just got a baby lotion stain on my Suede RM Williams Boots.
I did put baking soda for 2 hours but didn’t make a big improvement ?. Should I try again for a longer period?

I did also try a Jason markk shampoo that I had on hand and it improved a bit, but the stain still there.
View attachment 1492629 should I give it another clean with the Jason markk or should I get a better cleanser???

Here's a detailed breakdown of a suede cleaning process I use, using some pretty readily available ingredients: https://www.purepolishproducts.com/blogs/shoe-polish-and-leather-care-blog/taking-care-of-suede

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

Just a slightly nerdy thought. I think what you have here is not the 'standard' sort of welt (that you might see in a Goodyear welted shoe) but the use of a rand, over a stitchdown sole. A rand is a thin piece of leather that is sewn around the shoe after the stitchdown process. It is partly cosmetic but it also makes the seal stronger and protects the shoe. I stand to be corrected on this one, if I have got it wrong. Great work on the cleaning, either way. Best wishes, Munky.

Good point,

I am asking Sanders about the construction of this shoe, is quite heavy but it might be due to the crepe sole. I will revert with news.

 

[florent]

Just a slightly nerdy thought. I think what you have here is not the 'standard' sort of welt (that you might see in a Goodyear welted shoe) but the use of a rand, over a stitchdown sole. A rand is a thin piece of leather that is sewn around the shoe after the stitchdown process. It is partly cosmetic but it also makes the seal stronger and protects the shoe. I stand to be corrected on this one, if I have got it wrong. Great work on the cleaning, either way. Best wishes, Munky.

What makes you think that? I see a standard stormwelt here, but always happy to learn more if I'm wrong

 

[Munky]

What makes you think that? I see a standard stormwelt here, but always happy to learn more if I'm wrong

Well, I thought this shoe had a crepe sole and Juan has confirmed this. Crepe soles are usually of stitchdown construction and - sometimes - a rand goes on top. As it happens, I have just ordered a made to order pair of desert boots with just this combination. There is nothing wrong with either of these features. I would be surprised to see a stormwelt on crepe soled light suede shoes.

Sanders, by the way, make great shoes! Best wishes, Munky.

 

[florent]

Goodyear stormwelt on crepe soles definitely exist, I have a pair of Church's made this way
A stitchdown construction would show an additional layer on the edge due to the upper turned outside, which I don't see on @JUAN MANUEL pictures

 

[Munky]

Goodyear stormwelt on crepe soles definitely exist, I have a pair of Church's made this way
A stitchdown construction would show an additional layer on the edge due to the upper turned outside, which I don't see on @JUAN MANUEL pictures

Yes, fair enough! Best wishes, Munky.

 

[marlinspike]

Question about polishing hatch grain: am I correct in thinking a paste polish applied lightly is best, as it won't get into the grain and will make the shoe appear grainer than if using a cream polish?

Also, there is a spot on the shoe that got scuffed. This scuffed part absorbs moisture too readily,meaning it darkens when wet, but it also means that if I apply a shoe cream to it or renovateur it semi-permanently darkens (darkers, but I can make it normal again though reno'mat, but obviously that is stripping everything off). Anything I can do to make the scuffered area behave normally?

 

[JFWR]

Question about polishing hatch grain: am I correct in thinking a paste polish applied lightly is best, as it won't get into the grain and will make the shoe appear grainer than if using a cream polish?

Also, there is a spot on the shoe that got scuffed. This scuffed part absorbs moisture too readily,meaning it darkens when wet, but it also means that if I apply a shoe cream to it or renovateur it semi-permanently darkens (darkers, but I can make it normal again though reno'mat, but obviously that is stripping everything off). Anything I can do to make the scuffered area behave normally?

A colour matched cream polish should not darken the shoe. Are you matching the colour? Or perhaps better: using a slightly lighter shade?

 

[marlinspike]

A colour matched cream polish should not darken the shoe. Are you matching the colour? Or perhaps better: using a slightly lighter shade?

I didn't explain myself well. The scuffed area is darkening from moisture, be that moisture water, renovateur, or a cream polish. If it's water,it eventually dries, but not with the other two. It's like at a close up level the finish was scuffed bearing raw leather, so now anything that moisturizes it makes it dark.

 

[Goofy]

I didn't explain myself well. The scuffed area is darkening from moisture, be that moisture water, renovateur, or a cream polish. If it's water,it eventually dries, but not with the other two. It's like at a close up level the finish was scuffed bearing raw leather, so now anything that moisturizes it makes it dark.

There are some repairing agents that can be used to coverup the scuffed area. Another option is to lightly sand down the scuffed area in attempt to even it out. Other than that, I fear there is not much else that can be done.

 

[JFWR]

Proper Cordovan care requires a lot of brushing, which will inevitably remove the renovatrice cream. Also cordovan is a membrane. It doesn’t have the structure of regular leather. The cream may not adhere to it. I don’t believe the cream will damage to the leather. So you may as well try it out.

In all honesty it looks irreparably damaged. Those cracks seriously run the risk of becoming tears over time.

Good luck. I hope it works out.

So, I wore my renovatrice-treated LWB last night.

The result was that the renovatrice just peeled off the cracks. It did not adhere at all: it came off like plastic film.

Did I put this on wrongly? It dried for 48 hours. It was completely adhered before I put it on - but afterwards, it just peeled off. I have had much less success with renovatrice than most other people have. Am I doing something wrong with the application? Do I need to add something to cure it so it completely adheres and becomes a hard resin?

 

[JFWR]

I didn't explain myself well. The scuffed area is darkening from moisture, be that moisture water, renovateur, or a cream polish. If it's water,it eventually dries, but not with the other two. It's like at a close up level the finish was scuffed bearing raw leather, so now anything that moisturizes it makes it dark.

Perhaps the scuff has revealed the inner fiber structure of the leather - in essence, you have a gouge? That you don't have the top, cured layer of skin, but you have something closer to a complete penetration cut?

Can you take a picture of it?

 

[marlinspike]

Perhaps the scuff has revealed the inner fiber structure of the leather - in essence, you have a gouge? That you don't have the top, cured layer of skin, but you have something closer to a complete penetration cut?

Can you take a picture of it?

Yes I think that's exactly right. I would take a picture but I just applied some saphir recolorant. I'm hoping since that's very dry it will seal it off.