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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. freshstyle

    freshstyle Well-Known Member

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    Applying a thin layer of topical epoxy is less crazy than drilling through the soles.

    Unconventional but less crazy.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2017
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Occlusivity boogyeman
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    :crackup:

    Seriously though, not on a < 1"x2" piece located at the extreme end of the shoe and certainly not any moreso than cementing a similar piece of suede in the same location. It's the cement...the Topy is just more of the same, essentially.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
    2 people like this.
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This sounds like blasphemy coming from you! :)
     
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well, two things about that...first, I don't like or recommend toe taps of any kind. My remarks were just to offer an alternative.

    Second, it's only sounds like blasphemy if you don't understand the basis for my objections to Topy or cork or cement...to occlusivity itself, in point of fact.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  6. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    Hey guys :)

    May I ask a few really simple questions? I'm basically a first time leather owner. I own a pair of marsell baby calf black slip-ons (the kind made yearly). I'm concerned about the durability of the soul as it has already under gone intentional distressing by the maker and the soul is quite thin as it is.

    I've so far purchased the Saphir Renovateur, a few cloths for application/cleaning, and a horse brush cleaner.

    1) What exactly do I use to clean the leather from mildew, mold and residual dirt (everyday)?
    2)What cream/ wax would I also require for protection besides initial cleaning?
    3) I've seen "soul guard" applied at the soul for protection. Would this be applied before or after the Renovateur? How often is this required?
    4) What exactly is a Saphir Pommadier cream? It seems to be an all in one application that also adds colour.
    5) Is there anyway I can add some durability to the soul using an external product (that isn't a wax or cream)?

    I'm not terribly concerned about loosing colour but I've noticed the front top (across the rim/ edge) has faded and turned grey/ white. The soul has also faded white at the front.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
  7. Biggquis

    Biggquis Senior member

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    Can you upload some pictures? I think the very helpful people here would better be able to direct you if they can see your shoes
     
  8. starro

    starro Senior member

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    1. You don't need any product or treatment for the sole. Leather sole is supposed to get worn down. You then replace worn soles in a re-sole with the cobbler.
    2. Not sure what you mean by "intentional distressing" of the sole. If it's anything like the intentional ripping of jeans and then selling at 4x markup, then suffice it to say no good shoemaker would do this, and no sane customer should buy this.
    3. Please learn to spell "sole."
     
  9. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
  10. starro

    starro Senior member

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    Totally overpriced for a throw-away item, IMO. And I also think the amount of babying you lavish is totally incommensurate with the quality and artistry of the shoes.

    FWIW there are shoemakers/leather-workers and everyone else. An "artisan" leather designer who can't make a goddamn thing is a charlatan.

    My advice is to treat the shoes as beaters, and look for a quality pair when they (inevitably) give out.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    Perhaps I should have not put the word "Artisan" in there.

    I've never really considered them to be "normal" everyday shoes. It's obviously intended as a slipper hence the sleek low profile appeal. Fortunately I purchased mine on sale 3 years ago. I've always been wary of the price. I They go really well with Yohji, lemaire and JJVE.

    Are you saying the aesthetic is bad or the build quality? [​IMG]
    May I please request your advice on perhaps a more adequate (practical?) pair in keeping with the aesthetic?
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
  12. ClosetEvolution

    ClosetEvolution Senior member

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    @Mojo1990 wow! Way to stay classy in light of the retort! Props!
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. starro

    starro Senior member

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    Aesthetic I'm not sure can be "bad", although there are gradations of approval by the general CM community. Build quality is a more objective thing, and I'd be more willing to wager it is "bad".

    As to your request for advice, I don't know enough what you're looking for. If you are looking for something that looks like the pair you gave, then I'd suggest you purchase the same pair when the pair currently in your possession falls apart. If you're interested in classic men's leather footwear, please peruse some of the myriad popular threads on footwear. I think you'd find inspiration plenty.
     
  14. LAluck5

    LAluck5 Senior member

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    Does anybody have any recommendations for the best cobblers in Los Angeles?
     
  15. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    I have a particular affinity towards softly flowing organic curves and drapery often exemplified in brands such as Yohji Yamamoto, Isabella Stefanelli, Maurizio Altieri, Jan Jan Van Essche, Uma Wang etc.


    I realise the sole is problematic on the slip on. I'm actually more drawn to a pair like these from the most recent Yohji collaboration:

    http://www.souterrain.jp/blog/?p=11855

    http://hues.co.jp/yohji-yamamoto-x-cherevichkiotvichki-derby-shoes/



    I'm not a special snow flake. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
  16. stephenaf2003

    stephenaf2003 Senior member

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    Northern VA
    I'm not a special snow flake. [​IMG][/quote]

    You may not be a snow flake, but you're definitely special. The way old boy went in on you, and your replies demonstrate you are a true gentleman. I'll have to try to implement your perspective in the future; Awesome!
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. starro

    starro Senior member

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    These so-called fashion brands are all the same once you peel back the veneer of flowery artsy language that quite frankly doesn't mean a heckuvalot. If you are able to get beyond the superficial vagaries (and I think calling them an aesthetic really cheapens the value of that word), you'll see they are all the same: cheap. Corrected grain or bonded leather, in such small pieces that stitches are everywhere; everything glued together in some 3rd world factory that spits out millions of these clones a year; nothing built to last more than 1-2 seasons.

    Or you could consider classic shoe forms that have been around for centuries.
     
  18. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    Ah! Now I'm beginning to understand your perspective much better. It seems you've developed quite a large brush. I do envy your commitment to ethical standards. That would go a long way in explaining your attitude.

    Are you perhaps familiar with Geoffrey B Small? A true artisan if their ever was one! I have the deepest of admiration and respect for his work. Ideally I too would like to invest in footwear that is sourced and manufactured ethically, but I'm suspecting it would be rather difficult to locate an "artisan" that not only produces well, but that also designs a pair "aesthetically" pleasing to my particular sensibilities. I would like to think most of the brands I've mentioned above are actually producing quality pieces (*within* Europe and Japan) but not quite to your high standards of production practise. In my estimation the better the practice and the more ornate the design becomes the more I would need to spend. Geoffrey has recently spoken at length on the woes of mass shoe production. I'm new to all of this. I would certainly like to think brands like M_moria and Guidi are exceedingly better options than any generic retail outlet in Town.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
  19. starro

    starro Senior member

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    Thank you for the compliments. One fact I think the designers ignore is that it's a major achievement in and of itself to do the old stuff well. We do not need to throw out the baby with the bathwater for every single outfit or every single occasion. Over-innovation for its own sake is nothing more than ego stroking and self promotion, imo.

    For example, in the context of shoes, I think it's a great accomplishment by itslef to execute a black calfskin captoe oxford, with balanced lines, clean stitches, and solid construction. The shoes you originally posted are very ugly to me. So that gives you a little taste why I think "designers" are totally unnecessary for clothing. Fashion changes that are the result of craftsmen adapting their skills to new needs tend to last and to preserve tradition. Inorganic changes from daydreamers who seek to create a new need and grab the center of attention are just that, the papparazzi of "artisans."
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    What particular brands or craftsmen do you have in mind that make good shoes? I don't have a budget. I've recently been very interested in Japanese craftsmanship, but I'm eager to support more local businesses as a matter of principle.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017

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