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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Good point. Would need to check if they still have sizes.



    Well I got them with 40% discount but they are not seconds. Since the "flaw" is on the inside of the shoe now one will see it and I think the shoe would be compromised.
     
  2. M635Guy

    M635Guy Senior member

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    @Betelgeuse Is it a physical crease or just a discoloration? It might be in the hide itself. It might also become really hard to see after a polish or two. If you got them at 40%, that is better-than-seconds pricing. But if it is going to bug you, you should return them.
     
  3. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I think its a physical crease, like the ones you get when the shoe bends. I think I will ask the salesman if there's another pair to exchange them, if not I'll keep them.
     
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You're right...it is a physical crease but it is a physical crease in the hide itself--better known as a "fat wrinkle" and almost always found in marginal areas of the hide such as the shoulder and neck. Those are areas where the animal bends the most and the leather is less dense and.

    Most high end makers would avoid cutting in such areas. It's not indicative of best quality or best practices.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks mate!

    Would you change or keep them?
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think they're going to fall apart anytime soon but depending on what you paid for them....

    I repeat--not best quality.
     
  7. starro

    starro Senior member

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    Would you argue that the use of GY welt (assuming these shoes are GYW) is a much greater detriment to durability than those creases?
     
  8. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    They are GY welted, they are Carmina and not seconds or something like that hehe.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2016
  9. M635Guy

    M635Guy Senior member

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    Wat?
     
  10. starro

    starro Senior member

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    if Carmina, I would expect a lot more from them. They should be willing to exchange.
     
  11. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I will take them tomorrow to the store I bought them and ask them to change then for another pair.
     
  12. starro

    starro Senior member

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    And if store doesn't have another pair, they should send back to factory. I don't believe you received first quality.
     
  13. yellafella321

    yellafella321 Member

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    You guys are all seriously nitpicking something you all clearly have no experience with.

    Carmina's vegano leather is different from their box calf, as the vegano is more supple and noticeably thicker. It starts with a matte, textured finish, that is what I would call a perfectly "medium brown".

    However, as soon as the cream hits the leather, you'll see some dark spots, and may freak out at first, but you'll realize that the leather is like a sponge, is is just waiting for some more coats of Saphir Cream. After just 2 coats, the leather takes on a brilliant luster, and the shade of brown becomes approximately 20%-30% darker, and the creases go away.

    [​IMG]

    Now this is my second pair of the brown veganos (first one had a crooked cap), but both shoes displayed these characteristics, and is nothing like the creasing you get at the cap of a shoe.

    [​IMG]

    For Betelgeuse, there is obviously no harm in going back to the store and seeing if they have another pair, but for 40% off i'd be jumping for joy on the incredible deal I just paid for an impeccably crafted pair of shoes. Relax and enjoy your shoes.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2016
  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I wasn't arguing either way but with the fat wrinkles being in the heel area ...and thus reinforced by the stiffener and the dextrine that is used to bond the quarters to the stiffener...the leather is not going anywhere. It is stable and not going to stretch, sag, or rip... etc..

    Again, the fat wrinkles invariably come from an area that is less dense...less "prime... than really high end or bespoke makers would willingly or knowingly cut from. But the argument can be made that, for the most part, fat wrinkles are cosmetic.

    Regardless, I personally would not use such leather for any pair of shoes I made unless they were my own--the maker always gets the offcuts (and his kids go barefoot). :tounge:

    And FWIW, GY probably does represent a greater threat to the long tern integrity of the shoe than strategically placed fat wrinkles.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2016
  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I will go to the store and check if they have another pair in the same size, if not well I will get used to it. Hehehe.

    Hahahahahaha! [​IMG]
     
  16. goatandtricycle

    goatandtricycle Well-Known Member

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    As somewhat of a newbie can someone detail what my shoe care box should contain?

    I own smooth, grained and suede shoes.

    Also any recommendations for shoe trees?
    I've seen Langer and Messmer ones seem quite good value

    Trying to put an Xmas list together. Thanks!
     
  17. ace13x

    ace13x Senior member

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    NUMBER 1: A horsehair brush(es).
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2016
  18. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    So, yesterday I took the shoes back and exchange them easily. The new pair doesn't have that crease. I know it's vegano leather but I don't know, for me that crease in the side wasn't feeling good. I already applied them a coat of cream and wax and make them a little more shiny. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  19. Banal

    Banal New Member

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    Hello all.

    First off I'd just like to say thanks to all contributors to this thread. I read a fair amount and picked up most of my cleaning and maintenance knowledge from it. I hate to be a bother but I've run into a spot (spots) of trouble.

    I recently picked up these Allen Edmonds Lexingtons in Burnished Brown, and decided to give them a full new treatment and attempt a mirror shine on the cap toes with some Saphir Wax. Previously I'd just stuck to a cream shine on my shoes with Allen Edmonds cream and Bicks for conditioning. Along with plenty of brushing. The shine actually turned out quite well. I wore them several times and managed to grab a couple marks or scuffs from rubbing against something. So I figured to fix it I'd just bull them a bit more. That is, add a tiny bit of wax along with a drop of water and then swirl with a cotton t-shirt strip to apply thin layers of wax. It worked just fine for one of the shoes but halfway through doing it on the second I noticed some odd spotty discoloration. I immediately stopped and resisted the urge to continue bulling or get out the Reno'mat. Here's a picture.

    [​IMG]

    So for now I've decided to leave them and seek guidance. They've sat for a couple hours yet they are still there. My only guesses as to their nature are a bit too much water or maybe some sort of particle matter that has been sealed in with wax. What should I do to remove them or fix it? I'm still a novice so I figured I'd ask here. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you for your time.
     
  20. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When I first looked at that I thought it was a stretch mark indicating the animal was probably overfed/grain fed, which fattened the animal up. A fatter animal has a lot of subcutaneous fat that has to get rendered out during the tanning process creating a lot of "space" between fibers, which as you said isn't the best part of the hide.

    How can you tell that it is a wrinkle vs. stretch mark, or are we talking semantics?
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2016

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