**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[DWFII]



Interestingly enough, I have always bought size US 9.5 shoes. Just measured my own foot at exactly 10" of length which coverts to a US 8/8.5. These chelsea boots are UK 8.5 or US 9/9.5. Not conclusive, but interesting to me at least.

First, lasts between shoe companies don't adhere religiously to any set of standards. And even among last companies sizes aren't always congruent.

A size 9 in an Acme shoe might "stick" the same as a 9.5 or even a 10 in an Apex shoe.

Second, length may or may not have anything to do with it--instep girths, as well as waist girths, are a factor in foot slide. And the long heel measurement is even more critical...esp. when the shoe has no laces or any way to tighten you back into the shoe, short of original fit.

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[Fred G. Unn]



Interestingly enough, I have always bought size US 9.5 shoes. Just measured my own foot at exactly 10" of length which coverts to a US 8/8.5. These chelsea boots are UK 8.5 or US 9/9.5. Not conclusive, but interesting to me at least.

I'm not sure if this is the case, so apologies if it isn't, but from your questions it seems like you are newly purchasing shoes of a higher quality than you previously were wearing. In general, I find that your sneaker size in the well known brands is often a full size higher than your dress shoe size from the better makers. If you ordered your Cheaneys are the same size that you have previously been wearing for sneakers and glued shoes they very likely are too big. Here are a couple of my sizes just as a comparison.

New Balance gym shoes: US11EE
Allen Edmonds 5 last: US10E
Alden Barrie last: US9.5D
Crockett & Jones 348 last: UK9E

Don't get hung up on the size number as it means different things to different manufacturers and different lasts. Alden Barrie in US9.5D is a very comfortable last for me while Alden Aberdeen last in US10D is painfully small. Forget about the number and go with what fits the best.

 

[DWFII]



I have a new pair of Tricker's shoes and they have a very, very thick sole. At the moment, my feet don't slip forward in them but there is a little movement at the heel. Otherwise, they are very comfortable. I was wondering if the soles need time to bend a little. I imagine that very thick soles on shoes may influence movement at the heel - the uppers are stitched to - initially - very hard and unbending soles. The soles on my Tricker's are probably as thick as the soles on many boots (they are thicker, for example, than the ones on my Loake Chester's). I would have thought that the soles on boots are subject to a different sort of leverage than is the case with shoes. 

If the boot is really and truly a high top shoe, the leverage shouldn't be all that different. But you're correct about a thicker, stiffer outsole having an effect on heel slippage. As does fit--the width of the heelseat and the thickness of the comb.

 

[Munky]

Thanks, DWF, that is helpful and useful.

 

[SWRT]

So I bought a pair of Allen Edmonds Leeds the other day and they just got here.
They don't seem to have the normal tiny creases even though they seem to have
never seen shoe trees. I'm not sure, maybe they're shell? How would I tell? I took
some pictures, but I've never actually seen shell before.



This is after some brushing and a shoe tree. They don't seem
to have the tiny cracks that develop without trees like normal.
They're almost rough in the cracks.



This is the other shoe








Here's some pictures of the eyelets if it helps.

 

[traverscao]

Those are definitely shells. And as of those tiny cracks, brush the surface up really good, then burnish some conditioner on them, and you're all set.

 

[SWRT]

Ex

Those are definitely shells. And as of those tiny cracks, brush the surface up really good, then burnish some conditioner on them, and you're all set.

Ah, good deal then. They kinda looked like shell to me, but the pictures weren't very clear. Definitely different to look at in person. The soles are in good shape and they had heel taps (that need replacing) but I'd say not a bad deal for $30. Thanks, man

So something like Renovateur would be good to use on them after brushing? I've heard something about deer bone and the oils in them, but I'm not sure what that's all about.

 

[Beach Bum]

Hey Guys, just a random question related to shoe price inflation. Obviously prices have gone up and demand relative to supply for top shoemakers' shoes has skyrocketed.

What would you estimate say a $700 shoe today would have cost in 2008? $350, $400, $500, etc?

There may be perfect examples of the same shoe with a MSRP that can be tracked, I'm just not informed enough of any. Or in general the price points for certain shoemakers can easily be tracked and to see how they've increased over the years.

I'm curious for several reasons. Thanks.

 

[traverscao]

Ex
Ah, good deal then. They kinda looked like shell to me, but the pictures weren't very clear. Definitely different to look at in person. The soles are in good shape and they had heel taps (that need replacing) but I'd say not a bad deal for $30. Thanks, man

So something like Renovateur would be good to use on them after brushing? I've heard something about deer bone and the oils in them, but I'm not sure what that's all about.

Reno for conditioning would be fine, though in any case, try GlenKaren stuff for heavy weight championship.

Abbeyhorn has got a sleek bone that is great for any kind of burnishing. Basically, burnishing is rubbing a smooth object (natural is best) over any vegetable tanned leather to smooth and even out everything, from creases to, in certain cases of thick leather, minor surface cracks. Abbeyhorn carries two, the deer bone, and the sleek bone. Sleek bone can be use with a conditioner. I would not use the deer bone with a conditioner, although saying that there are oils in the deer bone doesn't really convince me.

 

[SWRT]

Reno for conditioning would be fine, though in any case, try GlenKaren stuff for heavy weight championship.

Abbeyhorn has got a sleek bone that is great for any kind of burnishing. Basically, burnishing is rubbing a smooth object (natural is best) over any vegetable tanned leather to smooth and even out everything, from creases to, in certain cases of thick leather, minor surface cracks. Abbeyhorn carries two, the deer bone, and the sleek bone. Sleek bone can be use with a conditioner. I would not use the deer bone with a conditioner, although saying that there are oils in the deer bone doesn't really convince me.

I appreciate the info. And I'm wondering about that too...how long could the oils of a deer bone really last? Checking out Abbeyhorn now.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Hey Guys, just a random question related to shoe price inflation. Obviously prices have gone up and demand relative to supply for top shoemakers' shoes has skyrocketed.

What would you estimate say a $700 shoe today would have cost in 2008? $350, $400, $500, etc?

There may be perfect examples of the same shoe with a MSRP that can be tracked, I'm just not informed enough of any. Or in general the price points for certain shoemakers can easily be tracked and to see how they've increased over the years.

I'm curious for several reasons. Thanks.

I've been buying higher end shoes since then and prices haven't changed all that much really, especially at the mid tier level. I would say over the past 5 years the higher end stuff has gone up about 20% to 25%, but the lower level maybe 10% to 15% or so.

 

[traverscao]

I appreciate the info. And I'm wondering about that too...how long could the oils of a deer bone really last? Checking out Abbeyhorn now.

Again, the bones can vary. Some are waxy, *****, some are crazily oily. It depends, really, for how long the oils or fats last.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I know that DW asserts that lasted trees aren't really necessary, or offer anything above what normal run of the mill trees do, but I think I have discovered an advantage: Travel. In a packed suitcase the facings (throat?) of your shoes can get very bent and crushed because there is no support there from the tree.

 

[DWFII]



I know that DW asserts that lasted trees aren't really necessary, or offer anything above what normal run of the mill trees do, but I think I have discovered an advantage: Travel. In a packed suitcase the facings (throat?) of your shoes can get very bent and crushed because there is no support there from the tree.

I won't say you're wrong because you're not...but here's what I do, FWIW....

I stuff socks down in the shoe (on top of the tree) so that they support the facings...socks may not take up much room in the ordinary scheme of things but a couple pairs of socks in each shoe makes room for a book or a flask.

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[Stacks]

Question re: white leather care.

Bought my SO some white common project tournament highs and, unfortunately, they came with a tiny scuff in a noticeable place right out of the box. There's no more pairs left in her size anywhere online and retailer cut us a discount so we're keeping them. I would like to do whatever I can to cover up the scuff and lay down some protection before she starts kicking around in them.

I did some research and ended up getting some meltonian shoe cream polish in white. Before I apply can someone confirm ideal technique on flat (not shiny) leather shoes? If I need to get something else please let me know... only get 1 crack at this I suppose.

I appreciate the assist in advance.