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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. vmss

    vmss Senior member

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    I never questioned which process was more superior/inferior. We were discussing which was more natural and not corrected.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2015
  2. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Hey guys, need your advice on treating shoes with Saphir products.

    I have renovateur, black cream polish, and medaille d'or 1925.

    What's the proper way to use them?

    If I have a pair of black shoes, should I use the black cream polish first (on the whole shoe) and then use the medaille d'or on the front part of the show for a "shine"?

    Thanks!
     
  3. rbhan12

    rbhan12 Senior member

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    Reno if you're trying to clean/condition first. Spread around the whole shoe with a dauber or cloth, wait ~5 min or so until the shoe becomes product dries and becomes opaque, then brush off with a buffing brush. Then use your cream polish with dauber brush or cloth and spread around the whole shoe. Again, wait ~5min until the cream properly dries and turns opaque, then brush off with a buffing brush. Then wax and water for high shine specifically on the toe.

    Justin FitzPatrick aka The Shoe Snob has an excellent video on youtube re: mirror shine, which is attached below. Follow this and you should be good!

     
  4. Hotjock

    Hotjock Well-Known Member

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    I bought some Tarrago nano protector spray and Saphir Invulner spray. Do they both do the same job? Will use on suede.
     
  5. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Thank you very much!
     
  6. Beach Bum

    Beach Bum Senior member

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    Hi All. I could use some expert advice from you guys.

    As the pictures show I scuffed the bottom of the shoe right at the tip. They are leather soled, blake rapid construction, santonis. I must have scraped the shoe against concrete or something but didn't notice until it was on my shelf at home.

    The larger picture shows the scrape, where basically a small area of leather is peeling back. The other two pictures aren't as good but at least show the relative size. It's not a large area by any means.

    What are some good options, DIY and professional repair? I'm thinking the following:

    - Cut off the area that is peeling with a precision knife (i.e. X-acto at home).
    - Glue the area back to the shoe
    - Do nothing
    - Professional repair and/or attach Toe taps.

    For the latter, does anyone know of a good cobbler in Chicagoland? Thanks a lot guys.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Buster Brown

    Buster Brown Senior member

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    It looks like the sole was channel stitched and the layer of sole leather used to cover the stitching came loose and is peeling back. I'd take it to a good cobbler (sorry, I don't know any in Chicago but someone here will). I think the channel covering is cosmetic but am not certain of that and wouldn't want to exacerbate the problem.
     
  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Don't think "more natural" is the right term, i.e., the finishing job is merely deferred in one case vs the other, assuming the quality of the material is the same up to the finishing stage.

    What's more "natural" and less "corrected"? A museum calf leather? Or a 'museum' 'marbled' effect created via hand dying unfinished crust calf?

    My maple butchers block is not more or less natural post application of butcher block oil. Neither are my shoes after a few application of wax.
     
  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Depends on how that effect is achieved. I saw some recent Ilcea Museum and the grain was top-coat-dyed. In that case...when the leather is not "aniline dyed" the crust is more natural. Closer to the leather...as it becomes leather (from the animal and the tannery, IOW. )

    With regard to both your shoes and the butcher block--it's a false analogy and unconnected to the subject at hand. The discussion is about "leather," not what made from it. Or what's done to it after it has been made into something else. But yes, the wood is more natural before you oil it...esp. since most oils like that, be they for wood or leather, contain chemicals that are not only not inherent to wood..."natural" wood...but may even be inimical to natural wood--petro-chemical solvents if nothing else.
     
  10. vmss

    vmss Senior member

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    @DWFII,you mentioned water based dyes. Are these also use in aniline dye? or are these creams and waxes you are referring too?
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
  11. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Define 'what's done to it'. By clicker? By pattern maker? By shoemaker? By finisher? Again, deferring some process from the tannery to leather workers does not materially change the substance of the end product received by the customer.

    And with your logic, leather in the form of wet blues much more natural, or leather before drumming/glassing/boarding more natural as well. How do you define "leather"? The leather sold by tanneries? Or the raw leather that just be tanned before the finishing stages?

    Or even, how do you define "made into something else"? There are shoemakers selling undyed crust shoes akin to uncolored color book or unpainted canvass. Are those shoes finished the "made into something else" process? Or merely the finishing stage of the process is merely deferred to the customer so they are not "made into something else" yet?

    p.s. If I remembered correctly, museum calf swatches at JL are dyed through with a top coat, with flesh/under side in colors several shades lighter than the grain side.
    p.s.s., I use beeswax/camellia oil for my block and camellia oil for my knives, not 100% certain if they contain petro solvents.
     
  12. Indyoshi68

    Indyoshi68 Senior member

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    Hey Beach Bum - saw some of your posts over in the Santoni thread and never knew you were Chi-Raqi! Dark days for our children and elected/appointed officials...but the weather is awesome! As far as a good Chicago cobbler, I use Brooks Shoe Service downtown - recommended by both downtown AE stores for repairs to soles. Had some topying and stretching done with excellent results. The owner, Mike, it's a hoot - but don't get him talking... You'll miss lunch (and dinner)! 29 E Washington, 6th floor - 312/372/2504. Good luck with the repairs.
     
  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    And again it's the leather that we are talking about...not the shoes. Clicking doesn't change the leather's fundamental nature. Dying does. Finishing does. Waxing does.

    Yes, wet blue is more natural than top coat finished, more natural than imprinted, more natural than waxed. Just as a raw hide is more natural than a tanned hide. It's a matter of degree--that's what "more" means.

    Elephant is more natural than Scotch Grain or hatch grain simply because it is closer to the natural state of the hide. That's nearly the definition of "natural"--little or less imposed upon it by whimsy, discretion or the aesthetics of someone other than God.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
  14. Beach Bum

    Beach Bum Senior member

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    Great advice, I'll give Brooks a try. And agree with everything you say. Chicago stayed under the radar for so long when cities like Ferguson, Baltimore, etc rioted. It was only a matter of time, crazy that it seems every day there is a new video showing police brutality.

    I'm torn between both sides. Cops shouldn't be flat out killers and ones that are (like the Carolina cop who shot a guy in the back) deserve prosecution, but at same time there are grey areas when it comes to defending yourself against criminals and cops shouldn't have to worry about their every next move.

    Now everything else going on (pension issues, CPS super on her way to jail, etc) only in Chicago I guess!
     
  15. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    What causes this damage to the heel?

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    ^ Flanky belly leather improperly waxed and exposed to rain water.

    Probably. IMO.
     
  17. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Recommendations on how to fix?
     
  18. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Get the toplifts replaced. The cobbler will clean the heel stack up and reqax. Then keep some wax on them and stay out of puddles.

    Except for the "flanky leather" bit, it's normal...more or less.
     
  19. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Hrm, the shoes aren't too aged. Less than 15-20 wears, so I'm surprised it needs this kind of attention already!
     
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know how old the shoes are, I don't know how many wears they have had. But I didn't say "get the toplifts replaced" for no reason--they are worn down to the point where one or two more wears is gonna put you into the heel stack. You need to replace the toplifts anyway, IOW.

    Fortune smiles upon you...two stones move with one push.
     

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