**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. kirbya

    kirbya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I'll look into that! However, you want to be careful of using anything with a wax on leather goods. What happens is that the layer of wax can get over all of your clothes.

    The Leather Lotion is essentially a diluted Renovatuer and is perfect for leather goods, including furniture. Because it's mink oil-based, you get the conditioning but without the waxes that would get over all your clothes.
     


  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sounds like a disaster. Post pictures.

    Using neutral wax to remove wax is kind of a dumb idea. You probably have a shit load of build-up.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012


  3. kirbya

    kirbya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Sorry to say, but it must have been a cheap original finish if it came off so easily. You should be able to build the finish back up using cream polishes. You may have to apply several coats to achieve your desired saturation. You should be fine, though, after a little work. And if the finish did in fact come off that easily, then it should be nice to start from scratch.
     


  4. mrclam

    mrclam Senior member

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  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  6. kirbya

    kirbya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I'm no expert on Cordovan, but I understand that it's core property is a really tight, compressed pore / fiber structure. Apparently when the tannery is completing the leather, a glass bottle is used to compress the leather.

    It is important that the pores not be allowed to expand. This is why Saphir has a specific Cordovan Polish that does not contain turpentine, which is a solvent used to penetrate the pores to deliver nutrients. Saphir's MDO polish for smooth leathers uses a pine-based turpentine specifically to penetrate deep into the leather to deliver the nutrients. However, if this is used on cordovan, it can cause the pores to expand.

    Below is a picture of an experiment I did to compare the difference in penetration between Saphir's Cordovan Polish (left) and their MDO Pommadier Polish (right). You can see that Pommadier Polish penetrates much deeper into the paper than the Cordovan Polish. This is due to the presence of turpentine.

    A little more difficult to see is that both still leave a layer of wax (but neither as thick as with the Pate de Luxe wax polish).

    [​IMG]

    It is possible that the water caused the pores to expand, which is why the shoe is creasing.

    You could use a Deer Bone to try to re-compress the pores and smooth out the creasing. The Deer Bone is specifically used for this purpose - and only on Cordovan (don't try to use it on a pair of calf skin shoes).

    Hope this helps.

    Sorry about the shoes!
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012


  7. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    It can also be accomplished by simply using a darker polish in certain areas.
     


  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    not according to olga berluti. she uses neutral wax, dubbing and regular wax to shine shoes.

     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ok, maybe to shine shoes, but to think you are going to remove wax with wax is retarded.
     


  10. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Yes - that is part of the process I used on the Drummonds in question. And using darker cream polish on just the brouging is also a good way to get some 'patina' going.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012


  11. cbfn

    cbfn Senior member

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    Well, it removed the wax I had put on there, so it wasn't all bad. I see now that the colour is still there, it's just a bit dark on the cap toe, which I suppose is a water stain. Does anybody know how to remove such a stain?
     


  12. kirbya

    kirbya Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I just updated my previous post on the cordovan. Take a look at the picture! Pretty interesting stuff!
     


  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Post pictures. I don't believe you that your wax removed the wax.
     


  14. cbfn

    cbfn Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    The shoe on the right had a mirror finish before.
     


  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    All of that dullness, and lack of grain could just be from wax build-up. If you want to start from scratch I would use renomat, or angelus deglazer and a lot of elbow great on the caps to get a lot of the finish off. Then build up a few thin layers using a cream polish. Then a wax layer, buff and then start the mirror routine.
     


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