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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    In general...heat is not good for leather. Water holds heat well. Steam is water heated past the boiling point. Boiled leather...AKA cuir bouilli...is rigid and entirely inflexible.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW, Leather Doctor Hydrator and Fatliquor can be used to hydrate and condition suede as well as calf and cordovan. Probably the only product I've come across that can be used on suede for conditioning.
     
    2 people like this.
  3. ArsenalDan

    ArsenalDan Senior member

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    Sorry for the extraordinarily beginner question (searching wasn't getting me anywhere):

    my AEs need new soles because the front part of the sole is getting quite worn through (at the toe it is almost all the way through). The local cobbler wants to do a "half re-sole" where he'll cut off just the front half and replace it. I assume this is not a good idea and will limit my ability to go to AE for a real recraft in the future? (I also asked the cobbler about a full re-sole but the price he quoted me was even more than AE charges for a recraft . . . )

    Generally is the only way to do a "re-sole" to do a full resole/recrafting?
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2015
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If the factory offers a recraft. I would use it as they have the original last the shoe was made on, which limits some things that could go wrong. Many factories won't recraft after another cobbler messes with a shoe due to some ills that could have happens that can be exacerbated by the recraft process. Your best bet is it recraft and then get toe taps installed to limit the wear in the future.
     
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  5. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    I'll be honest with you, Pat, if AE shoes go wrong, just go to B. Nelson. AE recraft service is a laughing stock, really.
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :shrug: I've never worn an AE. Come to think of it I don't own any American shoes.
     
  7. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    The only best American shoes are those plain toe bluchers for the military, or else those shoes made by bespoke shoemakers at best.
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've never worn a blucher.
     
  9. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    I thought you that some Corthays... Are they balmorals or bluchers?
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I got rid of them a long time ago. They were oxfords. The uppers cracked faster than any pair of shoes I've ever owned. Admittedly the fit wasn't great. I attribute that to part of their early demise.
     
  11. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    It seems to me that Corthay gives me bad enough impressions... Funky looking shoes, weird last shapes, weird coloring AND choice of color... now they even crack fast and fit bad... Can't even LOL...
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't be so fast to say they crack fast. Like I said, I really stuffed my feet into them, and it was during my frequent renovateur application days. I think it would be unfair to generalize Corthay based on a lot of factors that I had a part in seeing to their demise. Objectively speaking, they are a goodyear welted shoe.
     
  13. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Good year welting shouldn't be a real problem. Even so, for the price, I expect at least hand welting and machine soling.

    Did the leather really stretch beyond its capacity? Was the width of the shoes really that awful for your feet? Because, let's be real, if the shoes were made with quality materials, it should stretch fine through the course of breaking in.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They were stretched pretty good. Far beyond what is normal. I have a fairly high instep that the last wasn't suited for on top of being too narrow.
     
  15. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Poorly designed last, I'd say.
     
  16. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    I've got a few pairs of AEs. A bit heavy/clunky they are, but hard wearing. In terms of overall construction and comfort, they're a far cry from my Church's custom grades, which are probably my nicest shoes thus far. They're comfortable enough, but the AE lasts I've got seem to feel a bit flatter than my Church's. But so do my Trickers, which are my heaviest boots by a margin.
     
  17. MonotovsOpera

    MonotovsOpera Well-Known Member

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    Not every last has to fit every foot. There are plenty of lasts out there that don't fit my foot; that doesn't mean the last is poorly designed.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Even so, for a pair of shoes that price, I can, and are subjected to total right, to expect more.
     
  19. Jorge

    Jorge Senior member

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    PB can you speak further on your use of these two products. I've never conditioned suede, and have had mixed results with cordovan. TIA
     
  20. shoelover

    shoelover Senior member

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    I know you can spend a lot more money on products, but I use this and have had great success with it. Anyone else tried it?

    [​IMG]
     

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