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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    That's because all pB's shoes are massively tasty. :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Sir, troops used to put cooking grease on boots way back in 19th century, which was just buttery beef tallow, in replacement for standardized dubbin grease. There are people who used olive oil on saddles, too.

    As of vinegar, the documents that I read did include the use of vinegar on veg tanned leather, so, I suppose unless one is unaware, the use of cooking ingredients on leather should not sound much too weird.
     
  3. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Somehow, amidst this crazy life, things like cosmetic defects of shoe leather can really be a goddamn issue, whereas it should have been such fun to joy, don't you say so?
     
  4. Cordohan

    Cordohan Member

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    I have been through every single of the 970 pages just now and must admit that I am very impressed by the knowledge and devotion which is spread here. Kudos!
     
    2 people like this.
  5. Frikki

    Frikki Active Member

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    I'm in Iceland so snow, salt and slush are a 6 month thing here in the arsehole of Europe.

    Just thought it was weird that the Florsheims were so much worse than my other, more recent shoes.

    I'll try the vinegar.
     
  6. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Use more conditioners, preferably something like Lexol or Bick4, and find something that is adequately water resistant to use on your shoes.
     
  7. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    You're talking about the NS makeup right? It's not actually vegetable tanned calf - they're calling the tan color "veg tan" - if you look at a cross-section of the tongue, the leather is blue-grey inside, so it's very likely a chrome tannage
     
  8. Carson

    Carson Senior member

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    Yes, it was the NS Indy. Thanks, that's interesting, and I guess one can't always go on what's being presented!
     
  9. Organika

    Organika Senior member

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    It seems that a larger pressure is being placed on the brands by EU regulation. The latest regulation effective 3/24/14 does not allow any leather which detects over 3mg/kg of Chromium 6, which derives from chromium 3 used in chrome tanning. I have tested many leather recently, multiple better grade leather failed especially when using additional aging method. From what I understand, this regulation may change again before California picks up on it...

    That should be Annonay, Vegano calf which is chrome. The description would lead me to believe it is veg as well.
     
  10. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Please don't tell me I just had a great dream, because if this happens, everybody will have to buy my waxed calf in the future (LOL day dreaming at 12:00AM), and you can all call me a monopolist asshole, in return. I had always loved vegetable tanned leather. Given the fact that chrome tanned leathers are not bad, with respective responses from venerable members like DW and patrickBOOTH, still, vegetable tanned leathers are still superior than chrome leathers in so many ways, especially when only veg tanned hides can create good reversed waxed callfskins.

    On a side note, given the fact being politically independent (like Sir Franklin, whom I share the same birthday), still, I cannot stand the irrational and extremist liberal AND the goddamn communists.

    If anything, though, I still want a fair competition between two leathers.
     
  11. Organika

    Organika Senior member

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    Ha, possibly. If EU implements the aging method, I believe many better grade chrome leather used in footwear will not be able to pass. Tanneries will then need to adjust tannages to comply which of course is quite a undertaking and can result in inferior hand and appearance. This year I experienced this with some tannery catering to EU market which have used the same chrome tannage for decades, if they are forced to abide to the aging method, it would be a big issue for them. The regulation seems unreasonable as studies have shown patients with dermatitis are only affected if Cr6 levels are nearly 10x the EU standard of 3mg/kg. I suppose it wouldn't be the first immoderate regulation.

    I also use veg calf uppers which make a fantastic upper, IMO. Holds a great shine, the transparency and depth of leather allows a beautiful finish and ages well. Manufacturing can be tricky at first, in the end I still find it very nice to work with.
     
  12. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    From what we see with certain samples of shell cordovan (screw igents on this one), and many other samples, veg tanned leathers age every well, beyond imaginations, unless struck through dyed. I tend to like the surface color fading.

    The problem with them dumbfounding authorities is that they failed to realize who spent the money and who laundered money. I mean, several makers (more likely companies or groups, to be real) purchased very cheap hides from India.
     
  13. Cordohan

    Cordohan Member

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    According to some people in my environment, stuffing newspaper in wet shoes apparently results in toxic chemicals being soaked into the leather and over time into your foot and body. [​IMG]

    What are your opinions on this?
     
  14. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    It's good practice to wear Marigolds while reading the broadsheets for that very reason.
     
  15. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    España
    I stuff them with poems.[​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  16. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Of all the creams out there, at the moment I prefer Saphir Creme Universelle. Goes on very easily and evenly. Brings a nice sheen to the shoes and protects them at the same time.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Poem stuffing is not to be used with wet suede, in which case, paperback books are the preferred option. [​IMG] Romantic novels are said to be the best.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Hameetman

    Hameetman Member

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    Den Haag, Netherlands
    [​IMG]

    My Santoni shoes, purchased 6 months ago, has some strange creasing/bubbling on top of the leather. Anyone knows how to solve it? I've sent a e-mail to Santoni's customer care but no reaction, apparently they don't care that much for the customers..
     
  19. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Sweden
    



    Yes, also Carmina uses Annonay and what they call "vegano marron", "vegano cuero" etc is actually chrome tanned, quite misleading. The only shoes I know for a fact that uses veg tanned is our Carmina Tärnsjö Jumper (because I sourced the leather myself, and visited the actual tannery). http://skoaktiebolaget.tumblr.com/post/101838600360/a-visit-to-tarnsjo-tannery
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2015
  20. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    Washington, DC
    

    Be sure to dilute with water. I use at least at 5:1/water:vinegar mixture. Sometimes even close to 10:1. Vinegar can damage the leather so it's best to heavily dilute and apply multiple times until the stains are gone. It may sound onerous but it will prevent serious damage.
     

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