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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. cchaplow

    cchaplow Active Member

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    Check out the before and after of my boots in this thread. My first attempt I used a LOT of wax and got negligible results. After watching the vid I tried again using just a whisper of wax each layer and I was amazed at the results.
     
  2. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    Did they cut across the joint of your big toe?

    Some of your comments about show ware made me think of something, is there a chance you have particularly long strides? I think this might put considerably more stressing the shoe (particularly across the vamp?) because the "extreme" angle at which the shoe bends with every step. This also puts extra internal pressure on the toe box—across the vamp—because the internal volume decreases at "maximum flex".

    This could lead to increased cracking vulnerability (again in theory across the vamp). Just as paper rips easier when you flex it repeatedly at extreme angles. I say this because I also walk quite a bit and those that do, tend to walk faster with longer strides. I used to have more damage across the vamp of the shoe (and my foot) before I started taking (marginally) shorter strides. It also decreases the amount of wear under/at the toe. It's just a thought. I used to get lacerations cross the top of my big toe from the pinching of the leather of the vamp at the aforementioned "point of maximum flex," before you bring your foot forward.

    I could also just be way off.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2015
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do have long strides, I think, but I don't see how that is relevant to a shoe not hurting until it came back from recraft where 70% of it was replaced.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    pB,

    I'd have to agree if a pair of shoes got tighter...or looser...after a recraft (or resole) something went wrong.

    But that will always be the case when respect for the shoe, or the customer, or the processes that inform the shoe are compromised or put aside. Every mismatched set of vamps, every crooked seam, every leatherboard insole, every scuff or errant swipe of dye, etc., is a result of something going "wrong."

    When techniques or materials are used, or chosen, which almost, and indifferently, guarantee a certain level of obsolescence, something has certainly gone wrong--usually the attitude of the people making those choices

    But!! None of them are accidents.

    StyleForum, and this thread in particular, is rife with things that have gone wrong...and more often than not before the shoe ever reached the customer.

    --
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2015
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I really think it's just that the loosened shoe from wearing it was pulled over a last and a new insole was put on and the "give" has decreased because of it. Also, the new linings could be a culprit as well, might have made the shoe feel stiffer. They don't feel tighter, but they are hurting my one toe, so it could just be the new linings.
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    If they put a new lining in, they could have...might well been forced to...put in a new toe stiffener as well. The new stiffener could be slightly longer in the forepart of the last (coming back further) or stiffer due to a different material or a less diligent job of blending it into the lines of the last--skiving, if it was leather. Also, if it is leather, perhaps a little too much paste was used or it was spread too far back. And the new linings might be heavier and stiffer as well...which, combined with too much paste or a new stiffener, might make the shoe reluctant to crease in the same place it creased before.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I hear you, however the shoe is creasing in the same spot.
     
  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    Something went wrong...I'm just glad I didn't do it.

    :lol:
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  9. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Could be but shouldn't happen.
    I'm curious though. Was the shoe made with a heel seat -or- 3/4 liner?
    Then maybe they installed a full sock liner?
    That little difference could effect the fit.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure what that means, but the lining looks exactly the same as when it was new.
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm blaming you anyway! :D
     
  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  13. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    What are people's views on Chelsea boots? I have the chance to buy some, reduced price, Oliver Sweeney boots. Do these sound like good things to buy?
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Don't know the brand, but I like the boots if they are on the correct last. And black.
     
  15. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm talking about the upper lining. No way they replaced that or the toe box. It would be more cost effective for them to give you a new shoe than do all of that!
    I'm asking about the sock liner. Is it full (heel to toe), 3/4 (ends under the arch) or a heel seat?
    Do you remember what it was originally?
     
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    pB,

    Didn't you say that they had replaced the lining? (I'm pretty sure you know the difference between a sock liner and a lining.)
     
  17. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They did replace the entire upper lining. The sock is a full sole sock, not just the heel.
     
  18. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Then I stand corrected. Did you ask them to do that or is that part of their normal service? That's like making a new shoe. I can't see how it's practical. Did they originally come with a full sock liner?
     
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yep, originally with a full sock liner. There was some cracking on the lining in the vamp area and I asked if it could be patched, or anything done about it at all. They replaced the sole (maybe the insole as well, I am not sure) and the full linings. The holes to hold the lining in place came back with the new stitching in the old holes. I was blown away. I think DW might be correct that the toe puff might have been longer as when I first got them there was some creasing past the toe cap and now that doesn't seem to be happening upon inspection of them this morning.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2015
  20. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yup....I would have to agree with him. I could be a number of things. Really hard to put your finger on just one.
     

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