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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Of course, they were meant for the guy who was miles from town and maybe further from a competent cobbler--the guy who didn't buy shoes to strut around in but rather to work in and to protect his feet.

    You could probably put new heels on a shoe, but you couldn't make shoes on them. So, in all probability, they were used to replace or re-attach toplifts and tack up outsoles when the stitching had come loose, and perhaps, for the more ambitious, to nail a half sole over the top of badly worn sole.

    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015
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  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    From what I have been told...this was way before my time, you understand....it was just a kettle in the shop hearth. And the point was just to provide a reservoir of conditioner in the insole so that it would last longer during wear. A lot of this comes from my friend at Colonial Williamsburg who might very well be re-enacting the same/appropriate time period.
     
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  3. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    You are one who understands me most, DW! [​IMG] A toast for that (no alcohol, though, too early to be sobers sods LOL!!!)

    I used to have my Hanover overworked, and once, the heel toplift actually fell off somewhere on the street. I was like, "Fuck that shit, just fuck it", and thought of the long lines in waiting for the shoes to be reheeled by AE recraft dept. I really wished I had a pair of toplifts and that anvil for a speedy replacement of the heel. In the end, I had to bite my thumb (LOL!!!) and send it to AE for a whole resole job (partly because the sole sucked ass already, too). THe waiting took me a mere 1 month 2 weeks.
     
  4. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    FWIW, DW, I would have loved that idea, if only insoles nowadays can still take that kind of treatment. I think that would be way more effective than rubbing Bick4 or Lexol on the insoles, but then again, it could risk mold and mildew (could it, though?).
     
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well thanks, I guess, but WADR, I doubt it.

    It's just been a long journey and I've been over every inch of the road. Sometimes over and over again...shoemakers, like most folks, make mistakes and hard-headed ones, like myself, often have to make them several times before the lesson takes.

    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015
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  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    It might be a little occlusive too depending on the tallow/oil etc..
     
  7. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yup....lot's of machines were retro-fitted from hot wax to liquid.
    I like the hot wax better than thread lube. Even the smell of it which I haven't gotten a whiff of in many, many years. I miss that too. It was worth the maintenance. Nearly every shop has people capable of doing typical repairs and make-shifting parts but I insisted on annual maintenance by a mechanic and we kept it up during the year. When something more complicated like rollers failing we needed a pro.

    Try finding one of those machines today....and the cost?
     
  8. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    I always have to mix red cedar oil with Fiebing's pure NF oil before use. My tallow/cod grease is also with an aromatic oil. I guess the Russians were a genius with their Russian hides curried in birch tar oil and seal grease.

    The cost would be up in the universe, I believe.

    True. Waxed threads are just amazing, and the lubrication last a lot longer, too. Thread lubes were petroleum by-products and in the long run, FWIW, I believe they will release that greasy sod into the upper leather and ruin the shoe for good, or they can spread all over the shoes in case a of washing (like how I did).
     
  9. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I always have to mix red cedar oil with Fiebing's pure NF oil before use. My tallow/cod grease is also with an aromatic oil. I guess the Russians were a genius with their Russian hides curried in birch tar oil and seal grease.

    The cost would be up in the universe, I believe.

    True. Waxed threads are just amazing, and the lubrication last a lot longer, too. Thread lubes were petroleum by-products and in the long run, FWIW, I believe they will release that greasy sod into the upper leather and ruin the shoe for good, or they can spread all over the shoes in case a of washing (like how I did).


    Correct and, to make matters worse....If you have a machine that you are looking to get rid of there are just a few guys in the business that buy and sell. Even if the machine is in good working order (maybe it may need a few minor parts). They offer you next to nothing for it. They may even want to charge you to take it away!

    Then look at there websites to see what they are charging for the same rebuilt machine.

    Something to be said for a captured audience......
     
  10. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    I still reckon that I would never, ever, try to replace the heels of my shoes.
     
  11. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    LOL up to you, Munky. Some people around here are crazy enough to topy their soles on their own. I reckon a self reheeling in emergency skinnies would be more efficient and safer.
     
  12. Fred G. Unn

    Fred G. Unn Senior member

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    I can't imagine I will ever try it either.
     
  13. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Well, I haven't, but I reckon I might as well try, if those heels get fucked up before the whole heel and sole do.

    To prevent these problems from occurring, I actually had to hammer three nails on the heels when they were fully broken in, all on my own, with only nails, hammers, and shoe trees inside the shoes. AE's heels, especially the regular one with the rubber toplift, often failed within the first month of wearing, no thanks to their stupid idea of gluing the toplift rather than stick some light weight nails into it. So much for a lightweight construction method that won't hold up.
     
  14. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    I'm with you there my fine friend.
     
  15. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I believe AE is now using an improved rubber top. It also holds better to the base.
     
  16. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Where would that come from?
     
  17. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's internal stuff. No big mystery but I know they worked on it.
     
  18. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Sounds great. Unfortunately, I'll try and save the best of the memories with my current shoes.
     
  19. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How new?
     
  20. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    The latest pair was shell dundee, acquired during fall 2013. Although built solid, the finish started out god awful, and the right boot was proportionally weird.
     

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