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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. Carson

    Carson Senior member

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    I don't think they put any kind of finish on CXL. I read a quote by Nick Horween once, and he said you can actually build a shine up on CXL simply by brushing it a lot over time. I have done that with my 403 CXL Indy's and they have a nice glow to them, especially when the light is good:

    [​IMG]
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  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've done it with wax polish, but the finish on the stuff I was doing it on seemed very dry, not at all like heavily oiled leather. What you have there looks nice, but it isn't and will never be like a mirror without some sort of building of wax on the surface.

    Years ago I had shoes that I put Obenauf's leather oil on. They turned supple as anything soaked the stuff right up, but were matte to the eye, and oily to the touch. You could actually see in and leave streaks with your finger rubbing it. Nothing and I mean nothing could get it out, or make it take a mirror shine. I am pretty damn good at getting spots and stuff out of leather, but these nothing would make them take a shine. This is how I would suspect CXL to be if it wasn't finished with some sort of synthetic coating.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Obenauf leather oil is the bitchiest leather oil I've known of. I would take Montana Pitch Blend's oil or pure NF oil any day. I put a coat of pure NF oil over my polished AE calf vamp and it still shines, but if Obenauf oil was put on, don't expect anything but dust magnet.

    CXL was suppose to look natural, not polished, because it was heavily stuffed and then oiled up. You're right when saying it is possible they coated the surface with something. We knew from DW that their Huntsman was coated with acrylic.

    As of oil on the vamp, the only best way to get rid of them would be acetone and soap. Rub acetone on, then mix natural soap with acetone and rub.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Did that. Didn't work. I even tried lighting them on fire, and holding them over the stovetop on full blast to try and melt the shit. Didn't work.

    How does DW know that the huntsman leather is finished with acrylic?
     
  5. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Too bad that the oil couldn't get out. How did that go in longer run?

    He spoke about it many posts ago, and I cannot seems to be able to find it just yet. He cannot rub the hide with a bone, and Horween sent him a foul smelling bottle of acrylic stuff.
     
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I ended up selling somebody the shoes for insanely cheap explaining the issues and pain around it. The person was glad to buy them from me as rain shoes (water beaded off of them).
     
  7. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Honestly, even for field boots, don't try use Obenauf's oil. Thick oil isn't the problem. The problem is the fact that the oil is a resin based with beeswax. It's sticky as hell when dry, and it is one helluva dust magnet. I put it on a briefcase once. Regretted for the whole eternity (for the work that took to remove them, actually). Montana Pitch Blend's oil has got a lovely consistency, and would give a glow after brushing. Classic NF oil - I've brushed those on leather soles, even the vamp of my AE Lasalle that was polished with Glen's cream, no problem at all, even brush to a wonderful shine.

    The thing with Obenauf's stuff is that it is only effective in ultra thick, ultra dense leather. Sole leather benefits a lot taking a rub of Obenauf. But for upper, no thanks. Montana Pitch Blend works wonder on uppers.
     
  8. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Have you tried snoseal? Even more beeswax. Good at water proofing though.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2015
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You're wrong about resin being in Obaneuf's. It is mostly beeswax and propolis. Also, I am not talking about their thick LP product, I am talking about their Leather Oil. Different. Also the LP will glow with a mild shine if not overused.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Also, in terms of doing it's job correctly, I would say that just because a product shines up when brushed doesn't mean it is "better" in fact I would lean towards the contrary if penetration and water resiliency is your goal.
     
  11. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Tried. But kinda disappointed.

    Sno seal can be polished over, though, with wax. However, the beeswax of sno seal really smother the leather up, and the heat driven application means you gunk goops into the leather's pores.

    For a dressing, I'd recommend Montana Pitch Blend. I used to use Pecard, regardless of what people said (because I brush a lot and I also clean the leather annually), however, upon touching Montana Pitch Blend for the first time, I was completely hooked.

    For a grease, I use Saphir MDO grease, and also one from C&D jarnagin. Both are tallow and oil based, so they absorb faster. I used both of these for dress shoes (before polishing).
     
  12. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    +1. I would never use this on high quality shoes. Although I do use it to seal the stitching on my Saint Crispin's PC boots. Works wonders in the slush.
     
  13. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Bee propolis is sorta a resin, if I am not wrong.

    Obenauf's Oil just lower the beeswax ratio. That was why it was still sticky and tacky as hell, even for oil.

    Not that it shines, more like a smooth surface without a greasy residue.
    Montana Pitch Blend is a beast. Repels water hardcore type. One coat can last typically 2 weeks. For camping or long days expeditions, I usually go for three coats. Somehow MPB absorbs really good and can always be buffed up smoothly without getting sticky and soggy.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2015
  14. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    For dress shoes, the stuff is applicable - a light coat, thoroughly rubbed with your fingers, then use a heat dryer. Soon as it is absorbed, let it set overnight (sit and solidify). Once done, next morning, it can be brushed up to a decent glow, follow with brush shine and can be mirror gloss.
     
  15. MonotovsOpera

    MonotovsOpera Well-Known Member

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    I'd be curious to hear how wax softens leather. It's not the wax in sno-seal that softens leather, but rather the copious amounts of mineral spirits that give the appearance of conditioning by softening while actually serving to dry out the leather.
     
  16. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Snno seal doesn't soften leather. They said softening is harmful. In return you get a product that really just gunk goops into the leather's pores.
     
  17. MonotovsOpera

    MonotovsOpera Well-Known Member

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    I misread you, but I'm still curious why you find it necessary to apply so much product all the time to your shoes. Shoes and leather does not need that level of continuous work.
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great question Travers, you seem to be in a state of constant dissonance. You don't advocate smothering leather, but what you do, is smother leather.
     
  19. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Pat, I don't burn heavy beeswax into the leather, gunking and buttering my shoes with grease, nor do I advocate doing so. For dress shoes, it's a fat on lean rule - thin, thin coats. On heavy boots, a little more.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2015
  20. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Try one or two months of continuous movement in them and not having the time to work on them everyday but brushing, and constant, sudden bursts of rain, and then days of wild piss showers. You'll get why I have to do what I did.

    Sometimes they even go for three months straight with just only brushing. And don't worry, in summer they get very little polish.
     

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