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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. hayaoyamaneko

    hayaoyamaneko Senior member

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    Thanks for yr advice. hat do you think could have created the problem - feet too big? improper shoe trees? storage?



    not sure what you mean? I thought testoni was a quality brand?
     
  2. yls2012

    yls2012 Active Member

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    Do you need to be selective finding a cobbler to replace your heels and toppying soles??

    Shoe repair guy who visits my office replaced soles on goodyear welted shoes by simply gluing new soles on. I wouldn't go back to him for a sole replacement, but I'm considering using him to simply replace heels and toppy a couple of pairs of nice shoes. Is there any way he could mess those up, or any need to find someone else?
     
  3. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    They used low quality leather.

    Replacing heels, no. Putting on a new top lift is an relatively easy job as long as the heel stack leathers are not damaged. If the heel stack is damaged and require repair, than its a different story.

    Topy, yes. Usually cobblers need to sand down a thin layer of leather sole before they glue on the topy to ensure the proper balance.
     
  4. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    testoni is not good quality. i would avoid this brand.
     
  5. Craft

    Craft Member

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    I have a quick question. I have some BURTS BEES beeswax hand cream. I was wondering if I could use that as a type of conditioner on shoes. It comes in a round tin like shoe wax has the consistency of shoe wax but a little more creamy ( think warm wax). Its uses as per the lable are "for hard working hands work into hands to prevent cracking and return hands to a soft supple condition, perfect after gardening , construction etc......"i just want to condition a pair of Clarks desert boots I got which seem a bit thirsty. And out of curiosity could this be useful for dress shoes? Thanks

    P.s. my reasoning is most shoe care products arr beeswax based and all I want to do is rehydrate my boots not clean them (they are new) so I dont want to use my S. Reno. I know they are cheap shoes but I still want to care for them.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2014
  6. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Craft,

    I would imagine that your Clark's desert boots are made of suede. It is unusual to put cream on suede. You would be better off with a suede brush.

    If you are talking about your dress shoes, why not pop out and buy a tin of shoe polish? I doubt that you would use Cherry Blossom on your hands so why use hand cream on your shoes?
     
  7. Craft

    Craft Member

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    @Munky some are sude however the ones I have are not they are just a dark brown leather. . I do have wax and creams for my shoes im not trying to find a cheap alternative I was just curious as wax and polish is bees wax based and the Burts is ment to basically condition so I just wondered. . That amd im looking fpr a pure conditioner for the boots not a clean/con like my S.ren. and since I have the burts laying around you know but as far as the dress shoes I was just wondering. If the burts conditions skin amd is bees wax would it work for shoes which is also skim amd uses beswax based products.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014
  8. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Hello Craft. I still think it would be wise to use only shoe products for shoe care. I imagine that you would be upset if your experiment went wrong. Munky.
     
  9. Craft

    Craft Member

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    @Munky your assumption is correct I very much would be. Well thank you sir for entertaining my curiosity. Thank you kindly [​IMG]
     
  10. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    You are very welcome, Craft. [​IMG]
     
  11. mfridman

    mfridman Well-Known Member

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    hey guys what is your take on caring for pebble grain calf?
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have done some research lately and I would like to share some things that I have learned about leather and leather care. Now, this is just how I understand it and I could be a bit off, but if @glenjay, @DWFII, @RIDER or @Stirling have anything to add that would be awesome.

    The protein fibers of leather are amphoteric. This means they can take on characteristics of either an acid or a base when exposed to such solutions thus is sensitive to ph. The stuff in leather, that make it leather such as the tanning agents, fats, waxes, oils and dyes and such typically have a negative charge therefore in order for these "things" that keep the leather from reverting to rawhide, or drying out and cracking need to be oppositely charged (ionic positive) for them to "accept" each other. When something comes into contact with the leather that is a higher ph (more basic, or simply the fats, oils, waxes oxidize) the ph sensitive protein fibers get shifted to ionic negative due to the influence of the higher ph. What is does it repel the tanning agents, fats, oils, and waxes kind of like when you put two poles of a magnet together, they push each other apart. So what does this mean?

    When leather gets wet (or is neglected it is continually exposed to the atmosphere) in order for the protein fibers to be able to accept conditioning agents it has to be shifted back to ionic positive using something acidic. This is why cleaners that are somewhat acidic (d-limonene that contains citric acid and diluted turpentine) are actually good for leather because it keeps the protein fibers ionic positive and able to accept the tanning agents and conditioners.

    Recall the disposal of Krazy 8 in Breaking Bad?

    So given all of this, it is quite possible that my alleged bad experience with reno could have been because I used it after rainfall and most of the time, didn't bother to add polish back to the shoes. Rider, says that it is water based. This does make sense then. Because the leather after rainfall wasn't properly ph balanced before applying reno the protein fibers "repelled" the oils in reno.

    Other's who claim to just polish and use reno sparingly with good results might be getting good results because both cream polish and wax polish contains turpentine, which could shift the leather fiber's ph back to acidic and allow it to accept the other conditioning properties of the polish.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014
  13. Craft

    Craft Member

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    [​IMG] these just came in the mail and I have a few questions 1) my reg shoe trees dont fit at all do I have to size down or is there a known specific tree that will fit. (Shoes are AE neumok 5last I sized down from 10.5D to 10D ) logic tellae just buy a smaller tree but because of the varying lasts of AE figured id ask. 2) should only clear cream and wax be used since it has contrast stitching?, again logic tells me yes. Thanks again !! I hope im posting in the right thread [​IMG]
     
  14. halfnhalfnhalf

    halfnhalfnhalf Senior member

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    (1) http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF604_1_40000000001_-1_ (refer to the "size & fit" tab)

    (2) http://content.allenedmonds.com/pdf/ShoeCareReference.pdf

    Also regarding (1), if you shop around you can often find AE's shoe trees cheaper (e.g., at Jos A. Bank, where they are often 3 pairs for $25, or other retailers such as Amazon where they are sold under the "Woodlore" name).

    And also regarding (2), AE's general shoe care page is http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/ShoeCareView?catalogId=40000000001&langId=-1&storeId=1. Of course, you don't have to use AE's products or methods, but it's not a bad place to start.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014
  15. TheEyeball

    TheEyeball Member

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    I thought I would post this in case it can help others in some way. Last week I received my third pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenues and decided to attempt to put a little shine on them for a wedding I attended over the weekend. I rubbed them down with black Allen Edmonds Premium Shoe polish (not the wax that comes in a tin, but the stuff that comes in a squeezy tube) and let it dry. On a whim, I thought I'd dab my cloth-covered fingers in a little water and then buff the shoes (usually I just brush them and call it a day).

    As soon as I touched my fingers to the toecap of the right shoe, I felt them stick. I immediately pulled them off and to my horror it looked like I had stripped off the factory finish and even some of the black color from the leather itself. This happened in just an instant. As soon as the damp cloth touched the shoe the damage had been done. I have no idea why, but it happened.

    So I tried to fix it with more polish and more buffing, but I could not get it to look better. In desperation I even tried to strip the toecap with some acetone and start from scratch but that didn't work either. I was able to at least get them to an acceptable level and wore them to the wedding because I'm eager to break them in. I hid my feet under chairs and tablecloths all night so no one would notice. My wife said she couldn't even see what I was talking about, but I think she must be crazy because it looked awful to me.

    This morning I took them to a cobbler and in so many words he said "What are you even worried about? This is no problem. Oh, and by the way, don't put so much polish on next time." He said they'd be ready by 4pm and not to worry. Oh, and by the way, he only charged $7.44.

    I picked them up at 4pm, and just like he said, they look beautiful. I was concerned because part of the damaged area actually looked white, and it also looked dull and rough. But now they look beautiful and I have no worries.

    So if you think you've ruined your shoes, you probably haven't. If you can't correct whatever mistake you've made, take them to a reputable shoe guy to be fixed. In case anybody is interested, I included pictures with captions.

    [​IMG]

    The light colored spot in the pic above is where my fingers originally touched the shoe. The patchy area around it developed as I tried to add more polish and buff the light area out.

    [​IMG]
    Another view of the same problem.


    [​IMG]
    This is how the shoes came back from the cobbler: smooth, silky, shiny and sexy. No problems at all.


    [​IMG]
    Outside shot in full sunlight. No evidence of the damage I caused. Gratuitous shot of some Strands in the background.

    [​IMG]
    Another angle and no sign of damage whatsoever.


    [​IMG]
    Toecap on right shoe was damaged and is now flawless.
     

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