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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well yes, but currying and finishing are not inherently part of the leather. They are additives and fundamentally no different than painting the leather, or the seams, with pine tar. No different...except in degree...to applying a polyurethane film to a scoured grain surface to create one kind of CGL.

    And such leathers are only as waterproof as those additives can make them.

    Some fat liquors, such as would be used in fine calf, for instance provide little or no waterproofing/resistance. they are there to nourish the leather replacing oils lost in tanning. Other additives, such as silicone provide some water proofing but the greater the waterproofing, the more occlusive these compound are.

    More importantly it is the additives which are water resistant not the leather.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2014
  2. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    PU on leather = corrected grain. Cool...
     
  3. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    The problem is that shoes tend not to be exposed to pure water, do they? More a solution of salts and environmental polutants. Its these that cause the damage
     
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I think that's very true. Sulphuric acid is a commonplace constituent of rain water in urban environments.

    I might be noted that until relatively recently all shoes and esp boots were wet several times during the making operations.

    With the inventions of steam cabinets that has changed some but most bespoke makers still wet or dampen shoes or their components during lasting.

    So...one of the last-stage processes that a shoe experiences involves water.
     
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    = modern patent leather.
     
  6. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    True.

    And I clean my shoes with water after these exposures. No polish necessary afterwards, for me.
     
  7. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    This is why modern patent leather suck ass.

    Do you know if tanneries are stilling producing patent leather that was finished on the flesh side, with varnish, linseed oil, in the traditional way? I'd much prefer my patent footwear to be made out of that stuff. Haven't touch patent leather for ages because they're either corfams or PU.
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sulphuric acid is also used in the tanning process during the pickling stage. In the right concentrations it is fine and even beneficial to leather. Leather likes to stay between 3 and 5 on the pH scale. Rain water throughout the country is very varied, but in NYC it is measured at about 4 to 4.5, which is fine for leather. The issue with water is the grime that get kicked up on the city streets and dirt and such. Physical particulate matter that gets in the creases. Water also will allow the oils and tannage to evaporate out faster during drying. That's the issue with water.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Oil is a lot lighter than water, so I tend to believe they flush the oils out.
     
  10. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    @Munky , how is Glen's polish working for you though? So far?
     
  11. chewbocka

    chewbocka Well-Known Member

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    My CXL Indys are showing 2 holes. Is this something I should get fixed? I don't believe these were here before. If this does need to get fixed, is it something easy or does it require a ton of work?

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks like the stitching came loose there. Probably don't have to worry about it.
     
  13. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    His polish is delicious...marinated and basted my ribs with it last night...

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Leathers are softened either by steam, water, or some miracle liquids, during the lasting or insole feathering process, meaning leathers are not water resistant.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You're right...and my comment was misleading. I was just saying that rain water isn't distilled water, that's for sure.

    That said, when I came up it was pretty well accepted that acid increased the deterioration of leather. The common wisdom was that open urinals were a major cause of cracking .

    There was a study done and presented at Stanford University by Vladimir Kucera in 1988 that said "Monumental buildings and statues of stone, stained glass windows, paper, leather, paintings, museum textiles and archives are subject to accelerated deterioration from acid deposition."(pp177)

    How that works with regard to leather, I don't know..."Damnit Jim, I'm a shoemaker, not a chemist!"

    But rain isn't innocent anymore.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2014
  16. Munky

    Munky Senior member

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    Glen's products are working well for me, thanks, traverscao.
     
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  17. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    No thanks to industrializations and excessive use of mineral coals LOL!!!
     
  18. traverscao

    traverscao Senior member

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    Glad it's all working.
     
  19. eibes

    eibes Well-Known Member

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    I made a corresponding post in the AE Appreciation thread but I thought I may pick for knowledge here as well.
    I recently picked up a pair of Allen Edmonds with a burnished finish, which from my understanding is more impermanent than that of your typical dyed leather. What is the SF recommended way to treat such a shoe? I have a collection of Saphir products; several shades of the MDO creme and wax, as well as their Renovateur and Super Invulner spray. I also picked up AEs polish to go along with this particular color as I was unsure any of my Saphir would yield a precise match.
    Is there anything to be done that will preserve the color before wearing them out? How about recoloring and polishing after several wears? I am new to the burnished leather field and want to proceed with caution so as to not ruin my new shoes.
    As always, thank you for all your help
     
  20. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    1. use shoe trees
    2. rotate between multiple pairs
    3. on rare occassion, sparingly apply wax polish

    if you want to keep the shoes original color...use a polish that is one shade lighter...or a neutral....

    if you want to give the shoe a nice patina over time...use a wax polish that is slightly darker...or even a different color.

    you don't need to do anything else. be wary of creams and renovateur. they are notorious for destroying shoes.
     

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